Please bear with me here I'm in crisis mode. After a couple days of intense internet search I've narrowed my bicycle want to 4 or 5 entry level+ cyclocross machines. I'm having a spot of bother with the drivetrains coming from a single speed background. The bikes I'm looking at are 2x10 by default. I prefer 1x9 or 1x10 for simplicity. Of course nobody makes that. I see mountain bikers are converting to 1x10. One of the bikes taken off my list has 3x10. If I convert it to 1x10 is that too much of a chain angle to run long distance on the smallest cog?
|
|
|
Attn. Bicycle experts.
- Thread starter inreb
- Start date
Dude, are you sure you are not looking for expertz? They are much hipper.
Roomie
Banned
Likely yes its too much. The reason you see mtb doing it is their small cog is nowhere near as small as cx or road and their front rings aren't anywhere as big. It might be possible to do but I'd have to attempt it to say for sure. What's wrong with 2x10? Cx is usually compact cranks so it shouldn't be all that bad and the big ring is nice you hit say dirt roads or rail paths.
2x10? That's like a 20 speed. I ride single speed. Wouldn't tenfold be 10 times better then single? Isn't that enough? OK, I get your explanation on the mountain bike, thanks. Maybe I'm over thinking this? Gonna look at a Kona Jake right now. Thanks Roomie.
Roomie
Banned
Having the choice in front rings is really nice depending on terrain you get yourself into.
Kona makes some great cx bikes sir. You can't go wrong. Also does Norco and trek. There's always ridley if you want bling. Either way go disc brakes if you can. They're incredible compared to what you'll know as traditional brakes
Kona makes some great cx bikes sir. You can't go wrong. Also does Norco and trek. There's always ridley if you want bling. Either way go disc brakes if you can. They're incredible compared to what you'll know as traditional brakes
I converted my Jekyll to a 1 x 9 by simply removing the small and big rings from the crank.
Its good for the trails but I sometimes need to summon all the leg strength I have to get up hills. It's not as good as an actual 1 x X system because it's a close ratio cassette.
I would think that on a cyclocross bike you'll lose too much high or low gearing if you simply remove rings.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Its good for the trails but I sometimes need to summon all the leg strength I have to get up hills. It's not as good as an actual 1 x X system because it's a close ratio cassette.
I would think that on a cyclocross bike you'll lose too much high or low gearing if you simply remove rings.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I hope you're right, I just bought the Jake. The disc brakes are weak but I have assurances that it's just a bedding in issue. Decent discount for '14's Same as '15 spec wise. Still plenty left if anybody's interested.
I'm just a hack, I'd love to have a nicely spread out high quality 1x7 or 1x8 for hacking around. Nobody makes what I want eg. XR200 motor in 450MX bike. See what I mean?
Especially it it is a surprise hill.
The best way to solve issues with Hayes mechanical discs is to bury them in a box in your back yard.
Roomie
Banned
Yeah I'd much rather hydraulic too. Probably should have mentioned that.
I got that vibe online as well. Is it expensive/hard to upgrade? Did I just screw the pooch? I was willing to pay for the Diamonback Haanjo Comp, better outfitted, but can't get one. Anyway, will give ride review once I change out the helium with air. 55-66lbs good?
Hydro calipers. Easy. LBS has a bin full of them. Hydro brifters? Not so much.
I will google that in it's entirety.
Hydro = hydraulic. For your CC bike you'd need hydraulic road brake/shift levers (brifters) with a master cylinder in them to swap over. The calipers are common. The hydro brifters are fairly new and no one really has them "sitting around in a bin". Most likely need to be ordered ($$$).
A question about sizing if you guys don't mind sharing your experiences. I'm 5'9 1/2", which according to the guru, puts me between 53cm and 56cm bike. Based on that I chose the 56cm. So when testing in the parking lot my foot brushed the front wheel. When I got home I measured my mtb between crank centre and fr. tire, it's 3" longer. Hmmm. I realize the cyclocross is a different animal and if that size goes with my size so be it. Can anybody shed light on how close feet come to the front tire when turning and pedalling?
edit, prolly shoulda googled this first lol it's called toe overlap and fairly common. Now, how about my heels rubbing in the back? Maybe don't wear work boots when testing bikes? Right ho.
edit, prolly shoulda googled this first lol it's called toe overlap and fairly common. Now, how about my heels rubbing in the back? Maybe don't wear work boots when testing bikes? Right ho.
Last edited:
Roomie
Banned
Sizing has more than just height in its considerations. Inseam, arm length etc all matter a lot. This is why dealing with a place that knows what they're doing is very important. As for your overlap and crank issues, it's very different. Typically road/cx cranks have longer arms and again that's all dependant on your size as well. As for heels rubbing in the back... if its in "normal" shoes boots that's why. If this is happening and you're using clips then your shoe needs to be adjusted. If you're stuck on anything else feel free to pm me and I'll find out or help as much as I can. No homo :hello2:
|
|
|
|
|