If you are doing just the valve cover, then you don't really need the torque wrench. Just nice and tight. However the opposite applies to head gasket since the head bolts must be torqued down in steps.
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Anyone able to install a head gasket on a gsxr 600 07
- Thread starter taxnatural
- Start date
If you are doing just the valve cover, then you don't really need the torque wrench. Just nice and tight. However the opposite applies to head gasket since the head bolts must be torqued down in steps.
It's better, but I have done many valve covers (although not that particular bike) without one. All bolts finger tight, then snug, then a little tighter, always tightening in a star pattern to even out the force until I think it's tight enough.
taxnatural
Well-known member
taxnatural
Well-known member
A torque wrench ... my definition of tight and your's are subjective. A torque wrench provides an exact measurement.
Yes replacing the gasket can be done without. I have wrenched professionally for years and can tell the difference between 6, 13, 18, + ft-lbs and be very close to a torque wrench on common torque values. If you don't have a lot of experience I wouldn't suggest doing it without. The $50 wrench (on sale) can save you $150 + bill if you break a bolt or the frustration of the gasket still leaking.
^ This. Valve cover bolts are notorious for stripping the underlying threads in the aluminum cam caps that are a matched set with the very expensive cylinder head if overtightened.
If you can gauge 10 N.m +/- 20% without a torque wrench, that's good enough for this application. Otherwise ... buy a torque wrench.
You need not spend $150 on a fancy adjustable torque wrench (the type that goes "click" when you reach the set torque). A beam type torque wrench (with a pointer that points to the current torque being applied) can be used with equal effectiveness and they are MUCH less expensive. In some ways, the beam type torque wrench has fewer sources of error or mis-calibration than a mechanical "click" type. The only disadvantage is that you have to watch the pointer when tightening. It doesn't go "click" and stop you from tightening further.
The only torque wrench that I own ... is a simple beam-type jobbie.
If you can gauge 10 N.m +/- 20% without a torque wrench, that's good enough for this application. Otherwise ... buy a torque wrench.
You need not spend $150 on a fancy adjustable torque wrench (the type that goes "click" when you reach the set torque). A beam type torque wrench (with a pointer that points to the current torque being applied) can be used with equal effectiveness and they are MUCH less expensive. In some ways, the beam type torque wrench has fewer sources of error or mis-calibration than a mechanical "click" type. The only disadvantage is that you have to watch the pointer when tightening. It doesn't go "click" and stop you from tightening further.
The only torque wrench that I own ... is a simple beam-type jobbie.
frasermanx
Well-known member
If you are taking off the valve cover why not check valve clearances too. the factory doesnt do a PERFECT job and you might not need to do it again for 40k km. .. just a thought
RandomHero
Well-known member
Did you end up doing the work to your bike?
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