AllistonGT
Well-known member
Proper tile store is your friend. Not a big box store.
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Any concrete guys here?
- Thread starter Renboy
- Start date
AllistonGT
Well-known member
Any ceramic or porcelain floor tile is fine to drive on. Stuffs harder than concrete. Just make sure to get full adhesive coverage.
My 4 post lift sits on porcelain tile. Never had an issue.
A really good friend used to do epoxy commercially so I would ask him where to buy the materials from. There's no way I'd want to redo it.
AllistonGT
Well-known member
I used Rustoleum Epoxy Shied. Did everything instructed properly. Winter Salt killed it 1st winter. The concrete stairs going from garage down to basement held up for years.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Our warehouse is epoxy, tough but slippery, even with a lot of no slip added. It's also fairly expensive, I think our cost for epoxy alone was expensive, over $1/sq'.
We also have a small section with poly flooring - that would be my choice over epoxy. Racedek and GorillaCore can be found for less than.$2/sq'.
I'm going to use GorillaCore in my garage someday.
AllistonGT
Well-known member
Not in a non heated garage. Been there.
Condensates under and when it freezes, it destroys the concrete.
I tried different solutions and did what I should have done first. Tiled it about 8 years ago. Powerwash in the spring and it still looks like the day I laid it.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
What, no heat in your garage? I put heat in the garage the first night I had to sleep out there.
I'd be interested to know where Racedeck can be had for $2sq'.
Which tile and does it hold up well to parking vehicles on it in the winter?
AllistonGT
Well-known member
HD bought porcelain 12x12 tile. Nothing special. Think I paid about $2.50SQ FT. Holds up perfect any season. Grout does as well. We park on it every day all winter. Picked one that has a slightly rough texture. Its only slippery when I'm in bare feet and the floor is wet. No one has ever fallen.
AllistonGT
Well-known member
That floor looks great . We did a friends house with a textured ( grade 4 i think) commercial non slip designed tile . Sealed the grout when done and it’s been well over a decade . Tile are graded 1 through 5 , 5 being hardest . Most porcelain is 3-5 . I think it’s a great solution in residential, I do think I’d have some rubber mats for that day you know is coming and you drop a 5 lb tool from 5 ft up .
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The modified concrete options do not like to be feather edges. Despite what the data sheet said on the above provided option. 0.25 inch is the thinnest that they should go. And even then they should be terminated with a true chase detail. And they require aggressive profile in the concrete for proper bonding. Goggle ICRI CSP5 as a minimum.
Epoxy with silica/pea stone blend is your best performance option but these materials are usually industrial sale only. I can be fined for selling them to non-professional entities.
And unless you do surface prep correctly, have proper mortar mixers and know what you are doing with troweling you are likely not going to be happy.
To get the water to move you need 1/8 inch slope per linear foot of floor. As a minimum.
In most cases when we reslope factory floors we end up moving the puddle unless we slope at 1/4 inch slope per linear foot.
I would say hire a professional but it will be very expensive. And most guys who will do personal garages are only skilled to apply the thin coat epoxies.
Good luck
Epoxy with silica/pea stone blend is your best performance option but these materials are usually industrial sale only. I can be fined for selling them to non-professional entities.
And unless you do surface prep correctly, have proper mortar mixers and know what you are doing with troweling you are likely not going to be happy.
To get the water to move you need 1/8 inch slope per linear foot of floor. As a minimum.
In most cases when we reslope factory floors we end up moving the puddle unless we slope at 1/4 inch slope per linear foot.
I would say hire a professional but it will be very expensive. And most guys who will do personal garages are only skilled to apply the thin coat epoxies.
Good luck
Just an aside for anybody playing with epoxy resins , wear the gloves and respirator no matter how short your exposure might be, you can use that stuff for years with no issue until you have an allergic reaction, and then walking within 15ft of somebody else using it and boom you rash up . A lot of guys in the custom car and boat business found this out the hard way .
When certain products are not meant to be sold to the general public , it is for a lot of reasons , health exposure is one
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When certain products are not meant to be sold to the general public , it is for a lot of reasons , health exposure is one
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This is very true. Workers forget this especially as VOCs laws and extractable limits have evolved and the industry has moved from solvent based resins to the 100% solids technologies (both epoxy (phenolic, amide and amine) and polyurethane (aliphatic and aromatic))
People figure it is safer because it is pure resin. However the resins are concentrated whereby the past versions could be viewed as diluted due to the solvent loads)
Many worker sensitizations happen. If proper PPE is used the issue/results are usually mitigated.
When we start a solvent based vinyl ester system with styrenes the workers are always freaking with the strict PPE requirements. As they have gotten used to the lazy safety protocols with other resins.
If the quantities are small enough the same stuff can be sold retail but it's just as likely to trigger sensitivity. Everyone has their limit and when you hit the wall it's for life.
I knew a dentist that was building an amphibious airplane and became sensitized. He had to put on creams, gloves mask etc. Having scabby hands wouldn't be a good for business.
Somewhere I have an epoxy filler that says to avoid contact and then says to smooth the product with a finger.
I work with a fair bit of vinyl ester resin and west system epoxy , always with mask and gloves . The early years in auto body for me , not masking to just spray out a car part since ‘ it’s no big deal’ , lead based paints and primers ….. it haunts me a bit . Now I’m all the gear all the time .
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Ditto. The old "If you can't stand the heat, stay out of the kitchen" attitude. Then came WHMIS.
So what if your nose hairs stuck together. I used to make spray bombs when the propellant was Freon, Now it's propane, going from fire suppressant to explosive.
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