Yeah I've seen videos on youtube of people putting gasket maker deep in the female end (what I was planning to do), but you're right, the exhaust temps from header to midpipe will be insane... I do wonder if it's worth trying though. Or maybe there's another way to seal it up better? Packing rings would be nice, but as you say, I don't think they would fit in the small gap.
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Air Cooled EFI Triumph Surging/Bogging
- Thread starter MaksTO
- Start date
I'd say packing rope but even that may be tight. If you can get thin packing rope (like thick thread more than small rope), wrap the male and jam it in. That should almost entirely fix the leak.
What do you mean by packing rope? Not sure if I know what that is.
I've also read of some folks wrapping tin foil as well. Might have to use some gasket maker to keep it from slipping around, but wonder if that could work.
For example.
Sealing rope of exhaust silencer 1mm - 0,5m (Jawa CZ Simson) - JawaShop.com
Sealing rope of exhaust silencer 1mm - 0,5m (Jawa CZ Simson). Delivery to almost 200 countries worldwide by JawaShop.com - new parts for your old motorcycles.
www.jawashop.com
For example.
Sealing rope of exhaust silencer 1mm - 0,5m (Jawa CZ Simson) - JawaShop.com
Sealing rope of exhaust silencer 1mm - 0,5m (Jawa CZ Simson). Delivery to almost 200 countries worldwide by JawaShop.com - new parts for your old motorcycles.
Oh, interesting! I might have to give that a go.
I think I'll try the Ultra-Copper for now just to see how it goes (I've read that it seems to be fine for some folks). But if that fails, this may be the next route I go. May not help the bogging/surging, but could minimize the pops perhaps.
I have little confidence in aftermarket "tunes" doing what they claim and operating correctly.
If your O2 sensor ports are plugged then the first thing I'd do is re-install the O2 sensors and plug them into the ECU as originally designed.
If you have a way of re-flashing back to stock programming temporarily, do that ... even stock programming that doesn't account for your aftermarket exhaust. The aftermarket exhaust shouldn't affect part throttle operation much.
I find it rather unlikely that it only uses the O2 sensor readings at idle. On a late model bike with a catalyst (as originally equipped), it's more usual to operate in closed-loop (with lambda-sensor feedback) after cold-start warm-up, everywhere below a certain throttle position and below a certain RPM, sufficient to do the entire EPA or Euro 4 / 5 test procedure with it in closed-loop, for maximum catalyst efficiency.
My race bike has a reflashed ECU supplied by a well-regarded tuner for that model. My bike won't run acceptably without my own PowerCommander map superimposed. (Way, way too rich at part load - so rich that when coming down off of higher revs in neutral, it simply drops all the way to zero and stalls, without even trying to pick up a nice smooth idle. My PowerCommander map is full of negative numbers in the whole part-throttle regime. In fairness, the cam timing isn't stock, but the difference from stock shouldn't have affected it that much.)
If your O2 sensor ports are plugged then the first thing I'd do is re-install the O2 sensors and plug them into the ECU as originally designed.
If you have a way of re-flashing back to stock programming temporarily, do that ... even stock programming that doesn't account for your aftermarket exhaust. The aftermarket exhaust shouldn't affect part throttle operation much.
I find it rather unlikely that it only uses the O2 sensor readings at idle. On a late model bike with a catalyst (as originally equipped), it's more usual to operate in closed-loop (with lambda-sensor feedback) after cold-start warm-up, everywhere below a certain throttle position and below a certain RPM, sufficient to do the entire EPA or Euro 4 / 5 test procedure with it in closed-loop, for maximum catalyst efficiency.
My race bike has a reflashed ECU supplied by a well-regarded tuner for that model. My bike won't run acceptably without my own PowerCommander map superimposed. (Way, way too rich at part load - so rich that when coming down off of higher revs in neutral, it simply drops all the way to zero and stalls, without even trying to pick up a nice smooth idle. My PowerCommander map is full of negative numbers in the whole part-throttle regime. In fairness, the cam timing isn't stock, but the difference from stock shouldn't have affected it that much.)
I just got TuneECU to run on a Tablet I picked up today. I will try getting it connected to the bike and reinstall the O2 sensors, restore the air filter to the original cover as opposed to the bellmouth, and try running the OEM Triumph Supplied Arrow tune to see how it runs.
From what I've read, the O2 runs closed loop under 6% throttle (apologies - I said open loop in my first post because that logically made sense to me, but apparently when it collects outside data its actually a closed loop... confusing semantics
). People generally seem to say that this closed loop operation makes for very snatchy throttle at city speeds - hence going for O2 delete, and aftermarket tunes. One way to find out though!I've poken to Champion a while ago as well about getting a personalized tune. They insisted on a Power Commander, though I really don't want to piggy back stuff and add more electronics. I remember them saying that if I could get TuneECU to run on a device and connect to my bike, that they could do a tune with that. I may go that route - but I am scared to know what it would cost me...
Ultimately, squeezing every ounce of performance isn't what I'm after. I just want it to run well, and for the engine to live a long and happy life.
Edit: I also know that my aftermarket tune has ignition advancing. I assume that is tied to the Map(?), and that when I switch to another tune, it will pull back the ignition timing to stock too?
I think the issue wasn't originally present when I got the bike. I changed the tune shortly after buying because I wasn't sure if it was running stock fuel map and wanted to try preserving engine life by making it fuel correctly.
The issue popped up once I did the map. I then managed to get the problem to go away by adjusting the TPS, but in the spring it came back, and no amount of TPS adjustment helps.
It's hard to say exactly what caused this, or if it existed before but was less prevalent on OEM tune, but my plan is to get the O2 sensors back on when I have time and to load the OEM Triumph Tune for the Arrow 2:1. My best guess is that it's a problem with the tune as all signs seem to point to that.
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