The image doesn't show up, at least for me, on the website, so I attached a screen-shot. Is this the one you are referring to?Mine is probably the best 'tool' I've ever purchased.
The image doesn't show up, at least for me, on the website, so I attached a screen-shot. Is this the one you are referring to?Mine is probably the best 'tool' I've ever purchased.
Thanks.Moved to Technical forum.
@WestBrantKid if i could suggest editing the title to include the model/engine? May help someone in the future.
For a 2-4k budget, he can probably buy a running katana. You could know ahead of time if the engine is healthy. I think it's going to be hard for this project to make financial sense but if he learns and has fun, it's a hobby, hobbies lose money. This is just a different way to lose money on bikes.Ultimately, @WestBrantKid, you may find after disassembling that it will just be cheaper to find a motor at the junkers. I suppose it will depend on what shape yours ends up being.
So, a piece of polished marble should work? It doesn't flex, and is machine ground and polished. And very strong.Lap=make flat. Probably cheaper to pay a shop to do it than to figure it out for yourself on a one-off. You need a flat surface and something abrasive to transfer the flatness to your parts. Only takes a few minutes if you have the flat surface but we are talking engineered flat here not just a poured concrete floor. If the flat surface isn't flat, you just make a mess. In a pinch you could probably use a sheet of glass but it's normally got a curve to it so I don't love that idea.
That's the right idea. Polished marble is not necessarily flat in an engineering sense. A proper stone surface plate comes with a certificate of conformity that provides the actual flatness measurement. Even a grade B surface plate is flat within two ten-thousandths over the surface. I have no idea what a random piece of counter is and I have never measured one. I was offered a great deal on a nice grade A surface plate but unless I was doing this really often or charging people, it's just too expensive and takes up too much space for me to own. A 500 lb rock that needs to be treated like an egg or you ruin it just isn't something that brings me joy.So, a piece of polished marble should work? It doesn't flex, and is machine ground and polished. And very strong.
Do I understand this right? I would use an abrasive, like an adhesive sandpaper, with the flat surface to sand the machined surface perfectly flat?
I called around about getting the engine rebuilt professionally. Two places quoted me $10,000. My jaw hit the floor.For a 2-4k budget, he can probably buy a running katana. You could know ahead of time if the engine is healthy. I think it's going to be hard for this project to make financial sense but if he learns and has fun, it's a hobby, hobbies lose money. This is just a different way to lose money on bikes.
That's the one I got, only because it was on sale. There's a cheaper blue one that appears to be largely identical, and as long as you don't have a massive dresser, is fine. The front wheel chock on both is garbage, but you can get a much higher quality one from PA for not a lot more that works way better. The lift is on wheels, but they're small and hard, and I don't think you could move it with a bike on board.The image doesn't show up, at least for me, on the website, so I attached a screen-shot. Is this the one you are referring to?
I was considering leaving the bike off the road for next summer anyway because I plan to do this rebuild, and since the engine is out, and I've had most of the bike taken apart several times already before, I might just do a full restoration. The fairing will be off, the engine out... I might just strip it completely and restore the whole thing to new condition. Paint the frame, new bolts, barring and bushings everywhere... I'd have a brand new 2003 GSX750F Katana, and maybe with a few improvements.That's the one I got, only because it was on sale. There's a cheaper blue one that appears to be largely identical, and as long as you don't have a massive dresser, is fine. The front wheel chock on both is garbage, but you can get a much higher quality one from PA for not a lot more that works way better. The lift is on wheels, but they're small and hard, and I don't think you could move it with a bike on board.
The parts bin I got was from CT:
General PDP Template
I could easily pop a bin off and put it next to me, and I just put a strip of masking tape on to mark what was in it it with sharpie. It ended up making things a lot easier, especially when I was working on a few different things at once.
As for 'worth it', it all depends on your goals. It's probably way cheaper to buy another motor as @TK4 says, and realistically, the best value move would be to keep an eye out for a clean example as a replacement. But I will say there's a lot of satisfaction that comes from taking something that's not working properly and making it right. It might be a good idea to have a spare motor handy that you can plug back in if it ends up being more difficult or less fun than expected so you're not stuck with a bike you really don't want to reassemble.
It's also worth investigating how much actually needs to be done and maybe starting with less than a full rebuild. In my case, what started as some minor updates quickly snowballed into way, way more than I had planned. It ended up costing me significantly more than planned, and took way longer. But I also really enjoyed it and kind of miss having that project to tinker on through the winter. I'll be doing a full service on my Guzzi this winter as a much lower grade project to keep me busy.
In "an engineering sense" if you rub the head on any three stones, you will eventually get a perfectly flat surface, PERFECTLY flat, like microscopic flatPolished marble is not necessarily flat in an engineering sense.
Probably mine too.Mine is probably the best 'tool' I've ever purchased.