2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250 | GTAMotorcycle.com

2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250

Joe250

Joe250

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Hey all,

Just wondering if anyone might know what might be the issue, it's on it's way to a mechanic now, but just wondering if I was along the right track.

During winter, I put stabilizer in my tank, let bike sit, started it up a couple times over winter, first time sat for like a month, started up fine, next time a month later hard to turn over, finally started, had to leave choke on for a bit, then was ok, a month or so later, hard as hell to start, sounded like it was only running on 1 plug, eventually got it started by shaking the bike like a mother, was thinking possibly stuck float? Last time I tried starting it same issue, would idle with choke on full, but as soon as I touched the throttle it was like I touched the kill switch. Called cousin who is a bike mechanic by trade, told me to let it idle for a bit on full choke, give it a few blips, then turn choke off and give it a good blip, and anything stuck in carb lines should force out and start, that worked. today went to start, same ****, though it wouldn't turn over (for more than a half second) before dying. Also, I find when going from stop in 1st gear when i give it throttle it will bog down for a second before kicking in.

**** in carb lines? Problem with throttle?

Any ideas? I don't think the 2012's have a petcock do they?
 
Did you try adjusting the idle screw at the left side. Once the bike was warmed up I had the idle rmp set to about 1500 rpm's. I used to use the choke for about 3 mins then slowly turn the choke to off and then I started riding off. When it was cold out I would wait about 5 mins before taking off. The 250r needs time to warm up since it's not fuel injected.
 
Yeah, did that, couldn't remember which way to turn so did a quarter turn left to start, then did half turn right, still nada.

Not buying another carb bike ever again, lol, when it was new 400km, a float bowl screw came out, pissing gas everywhere :(

So many hassles with a carb, wish the 300cc were last year. Wish I didn't have a chain either. Thinking a cruiser will be next bike, long in the future since I just bought a house lol
 
It's a well known fact that 99% of the Ninja 250's are tuned too lean from the factory. The answer is to shim the needles which is an hour job at most and makes the bike 10 times better for both starting and low to midrange power.

Sign up with an account and you will be able to see the DIY link below with pics!
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11963
 
totally not mechanically inclined. My cousin (Bike mechanic by trade) lives in K-W though, maybe drive up there some weekend, to spend the weekend, and say "Hey I have some washers, wanna shim my bike" and pay him with a 24 :D
 
My bike was fine without the shims. I rode it in cold weather without any issues. The important thing about the 250r is leting it warm up before riding off. When adjust the isle screw, do it only when the bike is warmed up (20 min) ride should ne good.
 
I don't own a 250 but the ones I've ridden take a LONG time to warm up. I would agree with 250r-ice and let it run (idle from start) with choke on for 20 mins. What you're describing sounds like my experiences with my 4 friends 250's. I'd think the bike s warm, choke off, dies. I try again, choke off, idles ok, giving ANY gas = dies. That's a carb bike for you though... Neither good nor bad, just different than FI.
 
Despite what everyone says carbs aren't that bad...they might not even be your problem. How many KM's you got? I had problems very similar to yours, tried everything carb related short of pulling them out and taking them apart. Turns out I had tight valves. Got them adjusted and after 61k km she runs like new again. I choke for about as long as takes me to put on my helmet and gloves and then good to go.

Before I would full choke, it would go to 3k rpms, jump back to 1.5 then slowly rise to 4-5k rpm's then I'd let off the choke and it would die, unless it was on choke for 4-5 mins. Idle would fluctuate sometimes dropping below 1k. When I started riding if I came to an abrupt stop witout clutching in and giving some throttle it would turn off. I thought at first it was because of the cold, then I blamed it on carbs but neither were the issue.
 
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2200km on bike.

Called for update, they are taking the carb off now to see what's going on. When bike was brand new a float bowl screw came out, I think I got the bike that was made last thing Friday when everyone wanted to leave for the weekend.
 
Once you get this sorted out you will start to appreciate the bike. It was a great bike for me.. Wish I could of kept it when I upgraded.
 
Joe250 said:
2200km on bike.

Called for update, they are taking the carb off now to see what's going on. When bike was brand new a float bowl screw came out, I think I got the bike that was made last thing Friday when everyone wanted to leave for the weekend.
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you're getting this taken care of under warranty right?
 
it's normal for this to happen, my bike did the same thing- 1st was a battery problem fixed that easily

2nd reason as I figured out was
1- I didn't run the stabilizer completely through,
2- I didn't shake the bike enough to mix through the fuel,
3- I used too much stabilizer which makes it hard fro the plugs to keep firing.

After I got it started- took a few times to get going in the cold garage and took it for a good rum to get the old fuel out it now runs fine- although I'm sure I need new plugs
 
Took it to a friend who has a shop, told him if carb is ****ed or something ill send it to dealership. He knows the guys at dealership well as well, so maybe they can do work and put it through as warranty if the carb is screwed.
 
yeah, thinking it might be the stabilizer as well, only ran it for 10km after I put it in, maybe it gummed stuff up..
 
Joe250 said:
yeah, thinking it might be the stabilizer as well, only ran it for 10km after I put it in, maybe it gummed stuff up..
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The red Stabil stuff has a tendency to gum up the carbs on our bikes for some reason (Ninja 250 and 500 carbs are very similar). A few of the folks over on ex-500.com have commented on using the red stuff for storage and then having issues with their carbs in the spring. Upon further inspection they noticed the carbs were gummed up. It's possible they didn't give the stabilizer enough time to work it's way through during the winterize process. That said, they seem to have more success with the green/blue marine version of Stabil. No issues that I can recall with that stuff on that forum.

Try switching to Seafoam instead the next time your store your bike for the winter. I've used for years on my bike and no issues. My bike starts up in the spring as if it was only turned off an hour ago ;)
 
Yeah, just spoke to mechanic, they think one of the jets is gummed up, which is what step dad and I thought, we thought only half the carb was firing before, was idling really low with full choke, eventually got it going by shaking the **** out of the bike. No more stabilizer for me :D I'll just fire it up for 10 minutes or so next winter every month or so :D
 
Just got this pic. First thing I said was "Oh damn. That looks expensive" :(

bike.jpg
 
Anyone have an idea how much carb cleaning usually runs at a shop?
 
Use shell premium for the last tank before storage and you will not have an issue. Starting is hard on the bike and best to avoid if possible.
 
Scuba Steve said:
Use shell premium for the last tank before storage and you will not have an issue. Starting is hard on the bike and best to avoid if possible.
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Agreed. By starting it you'll get condensation within the engine since you won't get the oil up to proper operating temp.

Seafoam it and forget it!
 
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