2006 vw jetta suspension problem (obviously not a motorcycle)

[Nick_f]

need some mechanic help, i would post up on the vdub website, but I'm not registered with them and thought i get more of a variety of people here.

well here goes, i own a 2006 jetta tdi, with 215XXX on the clock. The car has been great until about 3 months ago. Everything is starting to fall apart, and I'm starting to loose my faith in volkswagen.

I just replaced the front left wheel bearing/ hub assembly, and than a month later the right. Than a week later the steering rack decided to stop working, so that was replaced as well, along with 2 stabilizer links (both left and right)

The car has been fine for a month now, and now a new sound started at the front left. It sorta sounds like a bad bearing, but it can't be because i just replaced them, and the sound is still present when i turn the wheel at speed (load and unload)

I'm starting to lean towards a sticky calliper or a warped rotor causing this issue, but would it make a sound during high speed?
It isn't a humming sound but more of a pause sound that gets faster with speed( whop..whop.. whop.whop.whop ) <-- cool sound effects i know

the rear right is on its way out also (slight play and propeller sound developing)

I thought it was also the tires, but i switched two tires around (FLeft for RLeft) and sound is still there


I take pride in my self never taking my car to a shop since i was 20, (only for tires and alignments) so all the work is done my self. But man, VW are really making me hate working on cars, and those stupid triple square drivers!

Thanks!

 

[toysareforboys]

I'm starting to lean towards a sticky calliper or a warped rotor causing this issue, but would it make a sound during high speed?
It isn't a humming sound but more of a pause sound that gets faster with speed( whop..whop.. whop.whop.whop ) <-- cool sound effects i know

I'm troubleshooting the same problem with that on my Cobalt right now. So far it looks like the caliper is sticky, causing the rotor to get hot and it leaves uneven pad deposits on the rotor making the whop whop whop sound (kinda like a warped rotor).

Had it into two shops so far but neither could find a problem. I picked it up today and didn't even get it home before I could smell brakes burning and the side that was making the noise, the rim was burning hot. So I gave up and took it to the dealer

I also found out my car has super rare dual piston front calipers, only used by GM for about 4 months of production, yay

-Jamie M.

 

[Mina]

If your rotors are warped you would feel a pulsation in the pedal every time you brake.
I know this sounds silly but have you checked the rotor dust shield?
If it's slightly bent it could be touching the rotor and making that sound you're describing.
Just a thought...

Good luck!

 

[Nick_f]

If your rotors are warped you would feel a pulsation in the pedal every time you brake.
I know this sounds silly but have you checked the rotor dust shield?
If it's slightly bent it could be touching the rotor and making that sound you're describing.
Just a thought...

Good luck!

Rotor dust shield was removed durring the install of the left bearing replacement. Can't be replaced unless i drill and tap the broken bolts out. Don't think not having one will cause a problem like this.

I do, on the other have a bit of a wrapped rotor symptom, a grab release feel when i come to a stop gradually.

never think a rotor or calliper would sound like this :S

 

[toysareforboys]

I do, on the other have a bit of a wrapped rotor symptom, a grab release feel when i come to a stop gradually.

Mine too, but the rotor checked out to be perfectly true, the warped rotor feel/sound was from the uneven pad deposits on the rotors. They are going to clean the rotor, buff/deglaze the pads, see how it goes I guess

I hope your problem is a simple one.

-Jamie M.

 

[Nick_f]

Mine too, but the rotor checked out to be perfectly true, the warped rotor feel/sound was from the uneven pad deposits on the rotors. They are going to clean the rotor, buff/deglaze the pads, see how it goes I guess

I hope your problem is a simple one.

-Jamie M.

Is your noisy at speed at <90km/h

My car is still drivable but annoying as hell.

 

[toysareforboys]

Is your noisy at speed at <90km/h

My car is still drivable but annoying as hell.

The sound seems to go away as I get up to highway speed, or the whop whop is so close together it's just drowned out by wind noise. If I drive for more than say 10 mins on the highway I can feel a slight side to side pulse in the wheel but no vibrations in the car and it drives straight.

-Jamie M.

 

[Nick_f]

The sound seems to go away as I get up to highway speed, or the whop whop is so close together it's just drowned out by wind noise. If I drive for more than say 10 mins on the highway I can feel a slight side to side pulse in the wheel but no vibrations in the car and it drives straight.

-Jamie M.

Right on thanks!

I did have an alignment done about 2 weeks ago, and the car does drive straight.

 

[bsawant]

Did you do an alignment after the suspension? (I would only go to the dealer foe this)
Also if you think you have a stuck calipers, they cleaning And greasing the caliper pins

 

[toysareforboys]

Did you do an alignment after the suspension? (I would only go to the dealer foe this)

When I took my car in today (to nurse chev olds) their fancy computer system calculated (as soon as I drove in) that the alignment was quite a bit off on the tire that's having the problems (blew that tire on the highway 2 weeks ago, been having brake issues ever since). I didn't see why the alignment would have any affect on my brake problem though, but could show that some more damage was done to that side when the tire blew.

-Jamie M.

 

[Nick_f]

Did you do an alignment after the suspension? (I would only go to the dealer foe this)

After the steering rack was replaced. Which was after the bearings

i just went to a place in town to have it done

 

[Bermuda]

So far it looks like the caliper is sticky, causing the rotor to get hot and it leaves uneven pad deposits on the rotor making the whop whop whop sound (kinda like a warped rotor).

Rotor's don't warp. What you've described is all that happens - most just assume it's warped because of how it responds. Hard braking causes the worn brake material to bond with the rotor, creating the uneven surface.

Just wanted to throw that out there

 

[Fontes59]

is it like a clunking that also sounds worse when you hit potholes? maybe top strut tower plates

 

[toysareforboys]

Rotor's don't warp. What you've described is all that happens - most just assume it's warped because of how it responds. Hard braking causes the worn brake material to bond with the rotor, creating the uneven surface.

Just wanted to throw that out there

Thanks

I'm running Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors (zinc coated). Would it be any more susceptible to this uneven pad buildup than a standard/smooth rotor? Is there a specific trick I can use to clean the rotor surface to an even/level surface? I'd want to make sure I didn't damage the zinc coating anywhere other than the actual area the pad runs in.

-Jamie M.

 

[DJM]

I just replaced the front left wheel bearing/ hub assembly, and than a month later the right. Than a week later the steering rack decided to stop working, so that was replaced as well, along with 2 stabilizer links (both left and right)

The car has been fine for a month now, and now a new sound started at the front left. It sorta sounds like a bad bearing, but it can't be because i just replaced them, and the sound is still present when i turn the wheel at speed (load and unload)

Wheel bearing or maybe CV joint. Just because the wheel bearing is new doesn't mean anything. Could have been dodgy from the start or damaged during install. All it takes is a slight nick on the bearing surface.

 

[frekeyguy]

Have you tried to jack up the car on jack stands and put it in drive and spin the wheels slowly? and hear for the sound?

When I had my only '98 jimmy, i couldnlt find the source of a sound....put it on axle stands...and figured out that the rear rotor/caliper shield was the source of the sound.

 

[toysareforboys]

Got my car back New caliper, new flex line, fluid flush. Works awesome now but squeals like a mother effer Hopefully some hard braking will fix it

-Jamie M.

 

[Nick_f]

I took the entire side apart today, and the hub is seized. Time for another new hub assembly! APC will replace it under warranty, but i'm out $30 in one time hardware use at volkswagen that they aren't going to rein burst me for

Can't spell crap without apc

 

[Brian P]

APC?

Did you use genuine VW replacement parts, or something aftermarket? I've found the hard way in the past that aftermarket wheel bearings and hubs are not worth the trouble.

I also have a Mk5 Jetta TDI. All four OEM wheel bearing hub assembles had to be replaced in turn at 200,000 +/- 20,000 km, but the replacements (genuine VW) have been fine, and the car now has 420,000 km on it. The car is semi-retired (trailer towing trips only for this summer) but that's for other reasons - I can't complain, I've had my money's worth out of it ...

One thing with those front hub assemblies -you must not put any weight on the front suspension until the center nut that holds the drive shaft inside the hub has been torqued. That nut is also what pulls the two tapered roller bearings together and properly preloads them.

 

[Nick_f]

APC?

Did you use genuine VW replacement parts, or something aftermarket? I've found the hard way in the past that aftermarket wheel bearings and hubs are not worth the trouble.

I also have a Mk5 Jetta TDI. All four OEM wheel bearing hub assembles had to be replaced in turn at 200,000 +/- 20,000 km, but the replacements (genuine VW) have been fine, and the car now has 420,000 km on it. The car is semi-retired (trailer towing trips only for this summer) but that's for other reasons - I can't complain, I've had my money's worth out of it ...

One thing with those front hub assemblies -you must not put any weight on the front suspension until the center nut that holds the drive shaft inside the hub has been torqued. That nut is also what pulls the two tapered roller bearings together and properly preloads them.

APC is a part company in town. I just used generic ones, but in retro spec i should have used Vdub ones. Guys on the TDi forums seem to like the hub assembly i bought and cheaper than ones from VW.
I did just make the axle bolt snug and than torqued when the wheel was on the ground. Next time i will get someone to step on the brakes when i torque to be sure!