2000 Ninja 250 Sprocket Change | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

2000 Ninja 250 Sprocket Change

Well gearing it down in the front is the same as gearing it up in the back 3 times if im right which does make it easier no?
 
I complained to my buddy after I'd had my 250 for a year.
He hopped on it, and showed me what it could do.
I stopped complaining, and worked on my skills.

I've never seen you ride, but that was my experience with the same issue.

Edit: The following year, I jumped to a 1100cc, which in hindsight was too soon. I should have learned to push the 250 more and better first.
A 1100cc let's you be lazy, so it's been taking me longer than it should to learn.
 
Nice! Stock? No dont get me wrong i love riding the bike such a nice upgrade, but i have never tried stunting much only seen videos of other 250's try and they cant do much. Maybe you can and i just never heard.
 
Or are you just talking about flat out riding because ya i agree theirs alot of bike for what it is. Even my buddy on the 600 says i keep up with him really good and i take corners very well.
 
You have the wrong bike for that sort of thing. What you have, is top end power with nothing down low. What you need, is bottom end torque and driveability down low in the revs - basically, a dirt bike.
 
Ive seen and heard of ninja 250s with similar gearing to what i want and stunting fairly good and not sacrificing to much top speed.
 
You can play with the countershaft sprocket gearing all you want but it won't make a bit of difference to the bikes ability to stunt ride. Stunt riding is done by stunt riders and it really does not matter much what they ride, a good stunt rider can brutalize almost any motorcycle.
 
TK4 said:
Stock front sprocket is 14t, rear is 47t.
The front is already about as small as you can go without kicking the chain over too much and causing premature wear.
The aftermarket has rear sprockets to fit from 33t to 61t.
I would think that going up 2t on the rear to 49t would give you a little extra punch without increasing engine rpm too badly at highway speeds.
It may require a slightly longer chain, but I doubt it.
Its only a 250 after all.
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Just saw this now. stock is 14/45 so most people are saying 13 in front is bad i dont think im gonna. How many in the back you think i should go up in the back being that its a 45 tooth
 
Trials said:
You can play with the countershaft sprocket gearing all you want but it won't make a bit of difference to the bikes ability to stunt ride. Stunt riding is done by stunt riders and it really does not matter much what they ride, a good stunt rider can brutalize almost any motorcycle.
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I guess, im not to familiar right now.
 
oh you can go 3 or 4 or 5 up on the rear from stock w a slightly longer chain
but remember w each additional tooth you reduce the streetability of your bike
 
If you want to make your bike faster you need to make it have more power and less wind drag, then you can carry taller gearing and your bike will be faster. Looking for additional performance by just gearing it lower slightly is not going to do much of anything, done that been there, wasted the money on sprockets. If the bike could carry taller gearing, the manufacturer would give it taller gearing :/ better performance, less fuel consumption, they geared it the way it is now because the motor could not pull taller gearing.

... you could probably make it better for stunting just by letting a bunch of air out of the rear tire.
 
Your gearing right now should give you about 7000 rpm at 100 km/h in top gear. Most 250-or-thereabouts bikes are geared around that, because that's what works. At 120 it will be spinning about 8400 rpm in top gear. At 160 (close to horsepower-limited top speed), it will be spinning around 11,200 rpm - close to peak-power actual engine RPM with a little wiggle room left before redline in case you have a tailwind or downhill.

If you shorten the final drive ratio by 10% - i.e. add 10% more teeth to the rear sprocket - it will add 10% to all of those revs - i.e. 7700 rpm at 100 km/h in top, 9240 rpm at 120 km/h in top, and the revs will top out around 145 - 150 km/h. And you will have about 10% more acceleration in each gear but run out of gear 10% sooner in that gear. That's about the most you should change it by while retaining some amount of sensible streetability.
 
Trials said:
If you want to make your bike faster you need to make it have more power and less wind drag, then you can carry taller gearing and your bike will be faster. Looking for additional performance by just gearing it lower slightly is not going to do much of anything, done that been there, wasted the money on sprockets. If the bike could carry taller gearing, the manufacturer would give it taller gearing :/ better performance, less fuel consumption, they geared it the way it is now because the motor could not pull taller gearing.
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He wants shorter gearing, not taller.
 
Cbr125guy said:
I was joking about the 60 tooth ? I seen it though. I dont want it that drastic 13/47 inst nearly as big of a jump. I just something with a little more oompf at stunt speeds because right now its not that capable of much. Dont get me wrong i love the bike but i just wanna learn this. Personal experience
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You can wheelie that bike with stock gearing you’re just gonna have to be high in the rev range in first gear, probably even better to learn on something smaller. My bike goes to 12 o’clock real easy and if you’re not ready for that you’ll be cleaning your shorts
 
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