2 Wks to bare metal. EBC total garbage?

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ThrottleThrow

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Bought some ebc rear brakepads for my 07 sv650,

2 weeks later my rear brakes are down to bare metal again..... How is this possible the rotor is in decent condition? Is ebc known for shotty rear brake pads, did the material fall off?

I'm not that heavy on the rear brake pads

Should I b going back to the store, or call the manufacturer?
 
Sounds like the caliper is seized so theres constant drag on them.

Did you grease the slider pins, clean the pistons etc
 
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jay-d said:
Sounds like the caliper is seized so there`s constant drag on them.

Did you grease the slider pins, clean the pistons etc
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This is my first guess.

Who did your install?
 
Have you been tracking fuel consumption? If the pads wore down then your fuel consumption would be high, but if the material clumped off then your fuel consumption would be normal.
 
My self, in retrospec I should have lubed them up, all I did was clean it up, but the piston moved pretty well. I never felt any drag atleast not that I can remeber. Even if the piston wasn't lubed properly it could cause the pads to ware down that fast?

This blows, in may alone I've had to replace my clutch, now my brakes twice, prob gonna have to replace or repair the caliper, and my valves are way out of spec. This isn't my month, I'm totaly broke because of this bike lol
 
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What kind of EBC pads? They make more then one type of compound usually

Either way sounds like something is wrong, even for stunting EBC HH pads last about half as long as OEM pads for me, but thats still way longer the 1 week...And I drag the brake all day, for hours straight, sometimes getting the rotor so hot it glows orange
 
Just the basic ones, organic compound or something. Right now looking at the bike the piston is all the way out, is this because the pads are bare metal. Or should the piston go all the way back in when the bike is at a stand still

Am I going to have to take the caliper off and rebuild it, or can I lube and clean it while its still attached. I'm hoping if that's the problem I can do it my self relativly quickly
 
ThrottleThrow said:
Just the basic ones, organic compound or something. Right now looking at the bike the piston is all the way out, is this because the pads are bare metal. Or should the piston go all the way back in when the bike is at a stand still

Am I going to have to take the caliper off and rebuild it, or can I lube and clean it while its still attached. I'm hoping if that's the problem I can do it my self relativly quickly
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Did you maker sure there was enough room in the resivior for the new pads when you pushed the pistons back in?

If you ever topped up your brake fluid level as the old pads wore down, then you would have needed to remove some fluid to make room for the new pads...If not then there is too much fuild and it will make the brake always have pressure on the rotor
 
I bought the bike with 44k, its at 50 now, never put any brake fluid in, never took any out.

I'm supposed to ride to wasaga tomorrow, I want to fix this today but I don't even know where to start and my mechanic isn't around untill monday. This is frustrating.

The shop I bought the pads at wants to look at my bike, mayb he can definitively telll me what the problem is.
 
ThrottleThrow said:
I bought the bike with 44k, its at 50 now, never put any brake fluid in, never took any out.

I'm supposed to ride to wasaga tomorrow, I want to fix this today but I don't even know where to start and my mechanic isn't around untill monday. This is frustrating.

The shop I bought the pads at wants to look at my bike, mayb he can definitively telll me what the problem is.
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Look at the res cup, if the fuild level is above the "MAX" full line then thats your problem
 
Its hard to tell in the sun, but from what I can see its closer to minimum then maximum
 
So I just called ted, he said the miles arnt nearly high enough for the calipers to be siezed.

He said the master cylinder is keeping the calipers closed, or I put them in backwards (I'm pretty sure I didn't)

I have sv racing rear sets could it be cause by them? Mayb I didn't back the adjustment out far enough? I'm hoping this is a easy fix
 
Can you take pictures of the following and put them up?
-Master cylinder reservoir
-Rear brake pedal / master cylinder assembly
-Rear caliper (from an angle that we can see as much of both pads as possible)
-Rear rotor

And no, you don't need to take a sliding pin caliper completely apart to lube the pin. You need to take it apart to some extent, but you shouldn't need to remove any brake lines or anything.
 
ThrottleThrow said:
I bought the bike with 44k, its at 50 now, never put any brake fluid in, never took any out.

I'm supposed to ride to wasaga tomorrow, I want to fix this today but I don't even know where to start and my mechanic isn't around untill monday. This is frustrating.

The shop I bought the pads at wants to look at my bike, mayb he can definitively telll me what the problem is.
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Sounds like and easy fix, lube up the caliper and go and dont forgot to take the res cap off, when pushing the caliper back.

IF nothing else, you can still ride to wasaga, just disconnect your rear brakes and tie off the caliper and be wary that you dont have rear brakes.

People go there whole lives without using the rear brakes. LOL
 
This might sound stupid, but it might be you. Make sure you're not dragging the rear brake when you ride. A buddy got his back rotor glowing red and the pads smoking by inadvertently applying the rear brake with his foot position. Either way, when you put it back together make sure the slider pins are clean and lubed and watch your feet
 
Thats excessive.
Does 2 weeks mean 2000kms or 20kms?
Either way, there is no way they would wear off that fast if the brake components are working correctly.... unless the operator is resting his/her foot on the lever, or the pads literally fell apart.

My guess is that something is interfering with the brake mechanism, causing it to hang on or stick....probably a foot.

I'm truly amazed that the OP didn't notice drag, smell or the heat they would have caused. :confused:
 
Did you put the pads on backwards? I've seen this a handful of times.

Is the slave cylinder adjustment too tight? The pads will drag as a result.

Is the rotor chewed up? Should be relatively smooth, and unscored or it will chew any set of pads off.

Rear brakes are relatively simple, but you still need to know what you're doing.
 
Is the rotor chewed up? Should be relatively smooth, and unscored or it will chew any set of pads off.

this^ (but felt relatively smooth when i did the install)

went to the shop where I bought the pads, mechanic looked at my bike.

he said that because i had let my last pads go down to bare metal they grooved the rotor. by putting the new pads on, they rotor was so grooved it wore away at the pads as if it was sandpaper, now the rotor is smooth from the pads, he said putting another set they should last alot longer. so this is what i am going to do.

I didnt notice any drag, or a smell to be honest, I dont rest my feet on the rear brake I still have the mc course guys voice drilled in my mind lol.

i would ride to wasaga with the fronts, but im going on my bike that already has the valves out of spec a touch, causing mid range powerloss. so im trying to be safe as possible, my acceleration is pretty sluggish until monday when my mechanic is going to do the adjustment

thanks for the input everyone, glad i sorted this out quickly and found pads in stock and suzuki newmarket :s
 
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ThrottleThrow said:
went to the shop where i bought the pads, mechanic looked at my bike.

he said that because i had let my last pads go down to bear metal they groved the rotor. by putting the new pads on, they rotor was so groved it wore away at the pads as if it was sandpaper, now the rotor is smooth from the pads, he said putting another set they should last alot longer. so this is what i am going to do.
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This won't really work, especially since you mentioned you had installed organic brake pads - they won't have much of an effect on the surface of the rotor. It might have smoothed the rotor out a bit, but you're still not going to get much life out of the new set. I don't have any cheap suggestions for you, other than trying to find a good condition used rotor (which is certainly possible).
 
Can you measure the rotor with a mic? See if it's under spec. That sounds kinda fishy to me, the pads should smooth out a rotor like that. And if that was the case, the rotor would be under spec now and should be replaced. So measure it. Not sure what happened to your pad material, there was no drag on the rear when you installed? After you pumped the brake back up?
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