1986 FZ600 "Black Yamba"

Checked valve clearance yesterday and recorded all of my measurements. Then, I removed the cams and removed all of the shims, after recording what was where, I got to swapping! Between this engine and my old engine, I had almost enough shims to cover it... minus 3 which I'll need to order from Yamaha.

 
Picked up a couple files today (rasp and bastard) and got some work done on the fairings while I wait for my valve cover gasket to get here!



 
rye said:
Picked up a couple files today (rasp and bastard) and got some work done on the fairings while I wait for my valve cover gasket to get here!



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Who you calling a rasp, you bastard.

LMAO. Man, I'm funny. No, seriously, I am.
 
Bastard file was my favourite tool in shop class. :D

Engine rebuild is now complete!!! Went pretty smooth for my first go at it.... it was just the top end though, but a really great learning experience that I rather enjoyed!

 
Looookin gooood!

Congrats. Oh, does it run? Lol.

I have confidence in you.
 
I betcha you are really anxious to stick that engine in the bike and hear it run. I always am.

Stay calm ... check your work ... check fluid levels ... make sure everything works properly at each step.
 
Thanks Jeff! Will know soon enough... lol Here's to hoping! :D

Brian, I'm more anxious for the snow to go away! haha The build has been one step at a time, double and triple checking everything along the way. The haynes manual I have is quite useless for rebuilds, but the factory manual was an excellent reference. I used enough assembly lube when putting everything back together that it should be ok for a few days out of the bike, and am going to go through the factory break in procedure, for the initial start up. I'm not going to do a full break in, because my rings and cylinders were already mated.

Actually that's a good question, how long is safe to keep the engine out before installing it? I'd rather wait until it warmed up a bit to be honest...no need to really put it in now if I don't have to.
 
So after doing some research I should be fine leaving the engine for a month or two without starting. I used lots of assembly lube when putting it back together and it's in a climate controlled environment at the moment so no need to move it out to the sub-zero garage just yet.
 
Took the carbs apart and gave them a nice good cleaning while I had everything else apart....no point in putting dirty carbs to a clean top end!

They weren't terrible to begin with:



After some carb cleaner and and pine-sol soak:



and all back together, only thing I had to replace was the float valve o-rings and float bowl gaskets.

 
Might I suggest an upgrade to your carbs.....change out the JIS screws to Allen Head Cap Screws instead, it will make it easier on any further times you need to disassemble the carbs

You can actually get the screws, washers and lock washers at Brafasco...

You can do the caps, the bowls, and the rail.......

P1090317.jpg
 
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I actually had a set of bits in my toolbox that fit these screws perfectly... they definitely were an oddball size though, but that's a good tip anyway!
 
Yup, so I have read about! :D

Ordered some Dunlop GT501's today to replace the 6 year old rubber that's currently on the bike. While I'm swapping rubber I'm also going to replace the wheel bearings and get the rims powder coated...but I have a decision now. Black, or gold?
 
Engine is mounted back up! Got some bike stands from crappy tire too, they're not bad but they don't lift the back high enough (maybe I could have put the spools a little lower) but I improvised with some wood. Engine went in no problem...even had the wife help me jack it up while I balanced it. :D








 
rye said:
I actually had a set of bits in my toolbox that fit these screws perfectly... they definitely were an oddball size though, but that's a good tip anyway!
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I have the proper bit for them, but I got rid of them where I could. You can get better torque with an Allen key on a Socket Head Cap Screw.

I had to buy some really small ones for my carb bowls. My last job was kind enough to donate a bunch of SS SHCS's to my bike. :). I use stainless where ever I can.
 
No bad for a newbie.
But you had shop class before
 
rzresurection said:
I have the proper bit for them, but I got rid of them where I could. You can get better torque with an Allen key on a Socket Head Cap Screw.

I had to buy some really small ones for my carb bowls. My last job was kind enough to donate a bunch of SS SHCS's to my bike. :). I use stainless where ever I can.
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it! When and if they become a hassle I'll replace them, but they're good for now! :D Stainless is a good way to go.

RockerGuy said:
No bad for a newbie.
But you had shop class before
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Thanks! and haha yes, about...15 years ago! :D It's easy once you start buying, or making, all the tools you need. Having the manuals helped and also made some new friends from the forums here and at the yamaha forums that helped me when I had questions.
 
rye said:
...Got some bike stands from crappy tire too, they're not bad but they don't lift the back high enough (maybe I could have put the spools a little lower)...
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Haha. I did the same thing. I didn't pay enough attention to how high the bike sat in relation to where I drilled the holes. The tire cleared enough for it to rotate freely.
 
rye said:
Yup, so I have read about! :D

Ordered some Dunlop GT501's today to replace the 6 year old rubber that's currently on the bike. While I'm swapping rubber I'm also going to replace the wheel bearings and get the rims powder coated...but I have a decision now. Black, or gold?
Click to expand...

You can't do black - we'll look like samies. Except my bike will smoke. Lol
 
I photoshopped it (didn't save it though) and I think I'm liking black.... My truck is the same way, all black... I love the stealth look, I can always paint rims later but I think they're going black. What's wrong with being twins?? lol Your's is older but mine's bigger. :D
 
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