.....

the bandit said:
Yes...Adrian at ACE moto tech in milton set up my suspension
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First thing I did when I got my 2011 ZX6 home was add
More compresion and preload. After the next couple rides I added even more preload. Was fine after that but I added alot of prelload.
 
I always enjoy the "You know how I ride on the street" comments from those with no experience.
 
Brian P said:
Setting the front and rear preloads is the only thing that should be done before you take the bike out on the track. Be alert to the possibility that your bike has what are called "long, soft top-out springs" which completely screw up any possibility of setting the front fork sag in the normal, traditional manner. The front preload adjusters in effect become ride-height adjusters if your forks have long, soft top-out springs (most newer USD forks do). Before you get tempted to cut those top-out springs or replace them with spacers ... they may screw up traditional suspension thinking but they are in there for good reason.

If front preload adjustment doesn't translate to a one-for-one change in the sag measurement ... you are into the top-out springs,
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Great post, but I have a question about the topout springs. I am familiar with these and the effect that they have on how fork compression / force varies with stroke position....but I was not aware that this was an issue when setting rider-aboard sag. Are there really topout springs in some bikes that are still engaged at 35 mm or more stroke?
 
YellowDuck said:
Are there really topout springs in some bikes that are still engaged at 35 mm or more stroke?
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Nothing that I own is like that, but there are some bikes in which the top-out spring is active with the bike at nominal rider-aboard ride height!

Doing it that way makes the rider-aboard ride height more consistent - less dependent on the weight of the rider - and that keeps the steering geometry more consistent. It also softens the fork's top-out action when accelerating and/or going over dips in the pavement. It's not a bad thing, I understand why the manufacturers are doing it. But it sure screws up the ability to set sag the traditional way. You essentially don't set the sag any more - you are more or less setting the ride height.
 
Brian P said:
Nothing that I own is like that, but there are some bikes in which the top-out spring is active with the bike at nominal rider-aboard ride height!

Doing it that way makes the rider-aboard ride height more consistent - less dependent on the weight of the rider - and that keeps the steering geometry more consistent. It also softens the fork's top-out action when accelerating and/or going over dips in the pavement. It's not a bad thing, I understand why the manufacturers are doing it. But it sure screws up the ability to set sag the traditional way. You essentially don't set the sag any more - you are more or less setting the ride height.
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Got it - thanks.
 
Been off the site and just saw this thread...wow...TwoTons serious about the track I guess eh...same with thebandit...hitting the track too?

No one is going to be on the street next season...

I myself debating on getting myself a track bike....we'll see....
 
darazcal said:
Been off the site and just saw this thread...wow...TwoTons serious about the track I guess eh...same with thebandit...hitting the track too?

No one is going to be on the street next season...

I myself debating on getting myself a track bike....we'll see....
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I'm still riding street this season!!!!
 
new race tires will make an 11 zx6r feel just freakin lovely.
And for you people who change rear end settings when you have handling issues "entering' a corner, please.....
 
hey twotons, ask your self this....... am i countersteering? i run upwards of 105mm trail. you want hard to steer? try my bike. but, i just put more input to the bars to equal the quickness of lean i want. and get twist of the wrist before you start messing with suspension equations. you are the #1 adjustment tool.
 
racepro171 said:
hey twotons, ask your self this....... am i countersteering? i run upwards of 105mm trail. you want hard to steer? try my bike. but, i just put more input to the bars to equal the quickness of lean i want. and get twist of the wrist before you start messing with suspension equations. you are the #1 adjustment tool.
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tropic_thunder_-1.jpg
 
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