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120v welders

@GreyGhost , really, you led with a traveling salesman stops by the farm story?? There must be 300 punchlines to go with that LOL

@ backmarker , I agree you can make money on rods and flips. I spent the first decade of my life in an autobody shop doing a lot of 'custom' , we put louvers in hoods, fiberglass cornflake boxes over blowers and fender flares on pickups to make "dualies" . We made money, the customers , usually not so much LOL.
 
crankcall said:
@GreyGhost , really, you led with a traveling salesman stops by the farm story?? There must be 300 punchlines to go with that LOL

@ backmarker , I agree you can make money on rods and flips. I spent the first decade of my life in an autobody shop doing a lot of 'custom' , we put louvers in hoods, fiberglass cornflake boxes over blowers and fender flares on pickups to make "dualies" . We made money, the customers , usually not so much LOL.
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The clone market. My MGA buddy also collects mid 60's Dodge Dart stuff. He will cut out the parts of body panels that enable him to clone a more valuable year. He also collects all the ID plates and keeps the registration slips. While I think he has been tempted to fake a year he has too much to lose if caught.

He also has a genuine Rolex and a fake copy of it. What he wears depends on where he's going.
 
Slightly off topic...I've got this LINCOLN ELECTRIC AC 225 welder. What kind of rods should I be getting for this thing as a first pass/training for myself?
 
almost any of the E60 or E70 family of rods will work for learning, 1/8" 7018 will stick anything under 3/8 " together quite nicely. Keep the rods dry , store in a warm dry place and its easier to work with while learning
 
I can't remember the numbers but, besides the diameter, they relate to the steel strength and the positions one can weld. Some don't work overhead or vertical up or down. Some strong welds are messy.

When I hacked around I used a general purpose all position rod as I didn't do anything structural. Did the job and didn't need a lot of cleanup.
 
nobbie48 said:
I can't remember the numbers but, besides the diameter, they relate to the steel strength and the positions one can weld. Some don't work overhead or vertical up or down. Some strong welds are messy.

When I hacked around I used a general purpose all position rod as I didn't do anything structural. Did the job and didn't need a lot of cleanup.
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xxyz (eg 7018)
xx (70) is strength (in thousands of psi iirc)
y (1) positions (1 equals all)
z (8) is flux & current (8 is AC or DC+, I have no idea what the flux actually is)
 
ive tried stick welding a few times w direction from good welders
I now have a deep appreciation for a good welder with skills

I think your better off having a pro doing the welding - unless your planning on doing this for years. just sayin..
 
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boyoboy said:
ive tried stick welding a few times w direction from good welders
I now have a deep appreciation for a good welder with skills

I think your better off having a pro doing the welding - unless your planning on doing this for years. just sayin..
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Often hobby welding is on projects that you want done quickly and/or dont want to spend the money to have properly done. If the project allows 1/4" plate, a grinder and paint, most people can get something useful built. Body panel replacement with mig is another common job for the hobby welder as restoring the toy in the garage doesnt have a six figure budget. If you want to stick weld sheet metal or weld up a bike frame, very few hobbyists will have satisfactory results.
 
boyoboy said:
ive tried stick welding a few times w direction from good welders
I now have a deep appreciation for a good welder with skills

I think your better off having a pro doing the welding - unless your planning on doing this for years. just sayin..
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The more things one tries the more one appreciates the skills of others.
 
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