If you do that, make sure you get the fittings too. You don't want to waste the time trying to track down the colour and profile matched fittings.Good call though. If I see some crews in the area I'll just ask them for a few pieces to be run.
If you do that, make sure you get the fittings too. You don't want to waste the time trying to track down the colour and profile matched fittings.Good call though. If I see some crews in the area I'll just ask them for a few pieces to be run.
Elbows, downpipe, trough to downpipe connector(s), straps (or make your own....you have a brake), corner pieces (unless you can cut/splice a corner), a clamp for every 2.5'-3' and a tube or 2 of silicone.If you do that, make sure you get the fittings too. You don't want to waste the time trying to track down the colour and profile matched fittings.
JJ Downs Industrial PlasticsJust a fluid conduit not under pressure . It’s a deck fill fitting on a vintage yacht ( old boat ) and the fittings were made in New Zealand in the seventies It’s NPS , no taper at all . I could crank something in and make it tight but I don’t want to bugger the threads in the deck , it’s a reinforced nylon product .
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How often do you need to use this thing? A rubber stopper jammed in the hole with a hose through it may get the job done. Doing that at the YC may require you to put a bag over your head.Awesome, thanks I’ll give these folks a call .
@nobbie , changing the female part , set into a boat deck non starter . I own pipe dies and taps , but NPT not NPS . I also own a small lathe but my drive gears are for several threads , not this . Tooling up ( even for an idiot like me ) for two parts seems silly.
I’ll see if these folks in Etobicoke will entertain my job .
Thanks all !
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How often do you need to use this thing? A rubber stopper jammed in the hole with a hose through it may get the job done. Doing that at the YC may require you to put a bag over your head.
Search GROCO, they make a lot of marine fittings with NPS.able OK clever folks , I need a male pipe fitting 1 1/2" NPS , straight thread , to go into an existing female thread . The female end is not changeable. I can fit tapered NPT or whatever going forward from this connection , nobody I can find keeps any fittings in straight thread .
1 1/2 NPS, 12TPI coarse.
anybody got thoughts ?
Honestly I just called my HVAC guy and he did a great job and quick.I need a new Hot Water Tank.
What is everyone's opinion on a good brand and a place to get one.
I am thinking a Rheem unit from HD as I have previously been told that they are good bang for the buck.
Any others to consider?
I do not want a tankless and I do not want to rent again.
Gas or electric. If electric it's something you can easily do yourself.I need a new Hot Water Tank.
What is everyone's opinion on a good brand and a place to get one.
I am thinking a Rheem unit from HD as I have previously been told that they are good bang for the buck.
Any others to consider?
I do not want a tankless and I do not want to rent again.
GAS.Gas or electric. If electric it's something you can easily do yourself.
If I was buying one, I would seriously look at heat pump hot water. Lots of benefits. May not work well for every situation and upfront cost will be higher.GAS.
Electric with a drain heat exchanger is cheap to run and buy. We had to set up at our old house and it worked fantastic I haven't got around to installing the drain heat exchanger at this house.GAS.
I like the concept of the drain heat exchanger. Our current house has multiple stacks so I couldn't use one HE for all showers. They are also crazy expensive. I don't know if the payback is there. Maybe if you made your own from some soft copper tubing and a piece of copper pipe, the economics work better.Electric with a drain heat exchanger is cheap to run and buy. We had to set up at our old house and it worked fantastic I haven't got around to installing the drain heat exchanger at this house.
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Electric with a drain heat exchanger is cheap to run and buy. We had to set up at our old house and it worked fantastic I haven't got around to installing the drain heat exchanger at this house.
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Haven't really considered the drain heat exchange. The stack that comes down from one of the bathroom (kids) and the one that the kitchen connects to is about 10-15 feet away from where the tank will sit.I like the concept of the drain heat exchanger. Our current house has multiple stacks so I couldn't use one HE for all showers. They are also crazy expensive. I don't know if the payback is there. Maybe if you made your own from some soft copper tubing and a piece of copper pipe, the economics work better.
15 ft isn't too bad at all I wouldn't think it would affect the efficiency. They are a little bit pricey but basically turned a 40 gallon hot water tank into an endless water supply for showering.Haven't really considered the drain heat exchange. The stack that comes down from one of the bathroom (kids) and the one that the kitchen connects to is about 10-15 feet away from where the tank will sit.
Is there a max distance that the stack should be from the tank to make it most effective.
Also looking at the cost of the HE, its approx. $500 CAD to buy
Would this HE only be a worth while thing to do with an electric tank or even a gas one.15 ft isn't too bad at all I wouldn't think it would affect the efficiency. They are a little bit pricey but basically turned a 40 gallon hot water tank into an endless water supply for showering.
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Should save about 40-60 percent of the energy to heat the water during showers for me it meant a cheap electric water heater runs for less than the cost of gas and I could use a 500 dollar electric heater instead of 2g for a gas one after install. It should save the same on gas usage.Would this HE only be a worth while thing to do with an electric tank or even a gas one.
I am thinking of a 50-60 gallon tank.