Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

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backmarkerducati said:
PSA.... check that the power is off even if you turned the power off.

Bathroom reno in progress and I turned the power off to the room some time ago. I was finishing up the wiring yesterday in prep for drywall and I got lifted pretty good. Turns out my wife tripped another breaker and turned them all back on! She admits nothing and life insurance is paid up :)

Normally I put a wire through or tape over the off breaker to mark it and a connect the hot to the neutral just to be sure no ones turns it on. But it is my house so why would I?
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Failures in LOTO have burned many people.
 
What’s the best way to reattach a section of drywall in the ceiling that doesn’t span between joists? Backing it with wood is effective, but it feels a bit rude for whoever might need to cut it again in the future. Is it possible to secure it safely using just tape?

One thing I’ve learned for the future is to take down the whole sheet instead of cutting holes.
 
daught said:
What’s the best way to reattach a section of drywall in the ceiling that doesn’t span between joists? Backing it with wood is effective, but it feels a bit rude for whoever might need to cut it again in the future. Is it possible to secure it safely using just tape?

One thing I’ve learned for the future is to take down the whole sheet instead of cutting holes.
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You don't need to remove a whole sheet but cutting back to joists is helpful. Your life is easier if the replacement piece is a new piece as that lets you expand the hole to a convenient size. Cutting to the centre of the joists blind is not easy.

As for your current problem, if you don't want to cut back to joists, wood scabs on the back to support. Tape alone wpuld be a nightmare and look like hell even if you managed to get it to stay. If you think access is going to be required here frequently, use an access panel or return air grille to cover the hole.
 
daught said:
What’s the best way to reattach a section of drywall in the ceiling that doesn’t span between joists? Backing it with wood is effective, but it feels a bit rude for whoever might need to cut it again in the future. Is it possible to secure it safely using just tape?

One thing I’ve learned for the future is to take down the whole sheet instead of cutting holes.
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When I do a ceiling I but the DW sheet between the joists backed by a 12" strip of plywood. BUT I put a long thin shim strip (1/16") on the plywood 6" back from the edge. When the sheet ends are screwed to the plywood, they pull up a bit, creating a taper that is treated like the tapered edges of the sheet. It gives a perfect flat ceiling.

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Depends on how big the hole is. If it’s a few inches like covering a old power plug hole that’s not there anymore and too small to get wood behind I’d do a “Italian patch” “don’t k ow if that’s correct term, an old contractor told me that) cutting a scrap piece of drywall a few inches bigger than the hole and cutting away the extra board but leaving the tap. Insert into the hole then mud the paper flaps that sit overtop.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
Depends on how big the hole is. If it’s a few inches like covering a old power plug hole that’s not there anymore and too small to get wood behind I’d do a “Italian patch” “don’t k ow if that’s correct term, an old contractor told me that) cutting a scrap piece of drywall a few inches bigger than the hole and cutting away the extra board but leaving the tap. Insert into the hole then mud the paper flaps that sit overtop.
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I've left paper like that for walls. On a ceiling, that will hang low. You'd have to fair it out a long way to hide the patch.
 
able OK clever folks , I need a male pipe fitting 1 1/2" NPS , straight thread , to go into an existing female thread . The female end is not changeable. I can fit tapered NPT or whatever going forward from this connection , nobody I can find keeps any fittings in straight thread .
1 1/2 NPS, 12TPI coarse.
anybody got thoughts ?
 
Eavesthroughs….

DIY or pay someone? Doesn’t look overly complex but the primary benefit (IMO) of having someone come out and do it is that it’s single piece the entire length.

DIY means joints.

Thoughts?
 
mimico_polak said:
Eavesthroughs….

DIY or pay someone? Doesn’t look overly complex but the primary benefit (IMO) of having someone come out and do it is that it’s single piece the entire length.

DIY means joints.

Thoughts?
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Pay someone. Specialty stuff like that I’m happy to pay someone and save money somewhere else.
 
mimico_polak said:
Eavesthroughs….

DIY or pay someone? Doesn’t look overly complex but the primary benefit (IMO) of having someone come out and do it is that it’s single piece the entire length.

DIY means joints.

Thoughts?
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Joints suck. Buy a roller and add it to the services offered or pay someone to roll the lengths for you. Whoever installs, make sure you get the slope right. Most installs don't put enough slope as they focus on esthetics and ease of install not function.
 
GreyGhost said:
Joints suck. Buy a roller and add it to the services offered or pay someone to roll the lengths for you. Whoever installs, make sure you get the slope right. Most installs don't put enough slope as they focus on esthetics and ease of install not function.
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At 15-25k for a machine...not planning on buying that any time soon.
 
crankcall said:
able OK clever folks , I need a male pipe fitting 1 1/2" NPS , straight thread , to go into an existing female thread . The female end is not changeable. I can fit tapered NPT or whatever going forward from this connection , nobody I can find keeps any fittings in straight thread .
1 1/2 NPS, 12TPI coarse.
anybody got thoughts ?
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Positive it is nps not bspp would be 11 tpi and easy to get.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 
crankcall said:
able OK clever folks , I need a male pipe fitting 1 1/2" NPS , straight thread , to go into an existing female thread . The female end is not changeable. I can fit tapered NPT or whatever going forward from this connection , nobody I can find keeps any fittings in straight thread .
1 1/2 NPS, 12TPI coarse.
anybody got thoughts ?
Click to expand...

What is it for pressurized liquid or just a conduit. I can tell you taping a npt nipple will seal if cranked tight enough.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 
Just a fluid conduit not under pressure . It’s a deck fill fitting on a vintage yacht ( old boat ) and the fittings were made in New Zealand in the seventies It’s NPS , no taper at all . I could crank something in and make it tight but I don’t want to bugger the threads in the deck , it’s a reinforced nylon product .


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
 
crankcall said:
able OK clever folks , I need a male pipe fitting 1 1/2" NPS , straight thread , to go into an existing female thread . The female end is not changeable. I can fit tapered NPT or whatever going forward from this connection , nobody I can find keeps any fittings in straight thread .
1 1/2 NPS, 12TPI coarse.
anybody got thoughts ?
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Which gtam members have a lathe? It wouldn't take long to bang out something (although it's always preferable to have a female on hand to confirm fit).
 
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daught said:
What’s the best way to reattach a section of drywall in the ceiling that doesn’t span between joists? Backing it with wood is effective, but it feels a bit rude for whoever might need to cut it again in the future. Is it possible to secure it safely using just tape?

One thing I’ve learned for the future is to take down the whole sheet instead of cutting holes.
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Depending on the size a couple of wood straps is all you need. Secured to the existing drywall on each side and spanning the hole. Secure the patch to them.

I wouldn't take down an entire sheet unless I really had to.
 
crankcall said:
able OK clever folks , I need a male pipe fitting 1 1/2" NPS , straight thread , to go into an existing female thread . The female end is not changeable. I can fit tapered NPT or whatever going forward from this connection , nobody I can find keeps any fittings in straight thread .
1 1/2 NPS, 12TPI coarse.
anybody got thoughts ?
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I have a set of dies but only go to 1-1/4" and they're NPT. 1-1/2" NPT is 11-1/2 TPI, not 12TPI so running the die backwards won't help even if I had the right size. My thread chasing file has a 12 TPI edge but I don't know if the outcome would be very true, filing by hand. Does the part need to be brass, stainless or nylon or?

What goes into the other end of the fitting? Male / female NPT, threaded or hose barb.

How complex is the part with the female thread? Since the female is the part creating the issue why not get rid of her. Nylon ages and gets brittle.
 
mimico_polak said:
Eavesthroughs….

DIY or pay someone? Doesn’t look overly complex but the primary benefit (IMO) of having someone come out and do it is that it’s single piece the entire length.

DIY means joints.

Thoughts?
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How long is the piece? I needed 2) 14 footers and saw a crew doing a house nearby. They ran the two white (Brown inside) pieces as a cash job. They threw in the end caps and brackets. I put them on the roof racks, drove home and DIYed the job.
 
nobbie48 said:
How long is the piece? I needed 2) 14 footers and saw a crew doing a house nearby. They ran the two white (Brown inside) pieces as a cash job. They threw in the end caps and brackets. I put them on the roof racks, drove home and DIYed the job.
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I'd say about 40-50ft x 3 is what I need.

I've got the house measurements somewhere around here. My only concern with DIY is going to the higher level of the house as I hate being up high.

The lower side is more of a concern as that's where all the pine needs and leaves collect. The top area looks good.

Good call though. If I see some crews in the area I'll just ask them for a few pieces to be run.
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