What did you do in your garage today..?

[Mad Mike]

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Husky branded. CDI and EFI. LCT made the engine. PE9HK18950178EGIOQTUVXZ791AE1M

Wow.

get that for motorcycles and maybe genies, but I’m not sure the complexity and dependability cost make it worthwhile on lawnmowers and snowblowers.

I can’t recall ever having a spark failure on either that wasn’t a plug or plug wire.

 

[GreyGhost]

Wow.

get that for motorcycles and maybe genies, but I’m not sure the complexity and dependability cost make it worthwhile on lawnmowers and snowblowers.

I can’t recall ever having a spark failure on either that wasn’t a plug or plug wire.

If you wanted the tracks, you got EFI. If you bought wheels, you got a carb. Marketing. Ran like a champ for years until it died today.

 

[Scuba Steve]

If you wanted the tracks, you got EFI. If you bought wheels, you got a carb. Marketing. Ran like a champ for years until it died today.

The fuel solenoid on my lawnmower ends up with the wire pulled off when cutting under trees very annoying. It's probably something simple get a neighbor to hold the plug wire while you turn it over.

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[GreyGhost]

Progress? I regapped the coil, installed a new plug and fresh gas. Now it sort of runs. I've never seen anything like it. Super low rpm. Sounds like an old hit and miss. Breathing out through the throttle body occasionally. Checked end of crank and it's doing a rotation forward and then a rotation back. Wtaf. It's like timing is miles off. I guess it's time to mark the flywheel and get out the timing light. Sigh.

 

[Scuba Steve]

Progress? I regapped the coil, installed a new plug and fresh gas. Now it sort of runs. I've never seen anything like it. Super low rpm. Sounds like an old hit and miss. Breathing out through the throttle body occasionally. Checked end of crank and it's doing a rotation forward and then a rotation back. Wtaf. It's like timing is miles off. I guess it's time to mark the flywheel and get out the timing light. Sigh.

Did you hit something solid the old Tecumseh engines used to shear the key under the flywheel and it would turn. Similar to your results.

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[GreyGhost]

Did you hit something solid the old Tecumseh engines used to shear the key under the flywheel and it would turn. Similar to your results.

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Not today. A hockey stick and shovel were sacrificed to the gods yesterday. It didn't stall and ran fine after.

 

[Scuba Steve]

Not today. A hockey stick and shovel were sacrificed to the gods yesterday. It didn't stall and ran fine after.

I would check the flywheel key before going any further you can see easily if it has turned. Maybe broke earlier and has been slowly rotating. That is one nice thing since switching to plow from blower no more news papers 100ft extension cords and other fun discoveries to spend hours getting out.

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[GreyGhost]

I would check the flywheel key before going any further you can see easily if it has turned. Maybe broke earlier and has been slowly rotating. That is one nice thing since switching to plow from blower no more news papers 100ft extension cords and other fun discoveries to spend hours getting out.

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I'll check. Stupid thing. Need to take off tank, throttle body and cover to get my eyes on it.

Edit:

Couldn't see crap. Pulled the flywheel. Key ok.

Edit 2:

Turns out it was still under warranty. It sucked nuts to get a dead 350 lb blower on the trailer single-handed and without ramps but dealer has it now. As a bonus there were a few brackets that had broken from vibration. I added them to the list of things they can warranty. It wasn't worth taking it in for but since it's there anyway, they can fix the issues.

 

[timtune]

I cut the ramp for my lift in half. I've wanted to do it since I got it. It's heavy and only needs room for one tire.

But with the slammed Wing that one short ramp is too steep, so I'm going to have the two pieces hinged to get an arched ramp twice as long. The hinge pins will allow me to use only one half when that's all I need.

 

[Scuba Steve]

I'll check. Stupid thing. Need to take off tank, throttle body and cover to get my eyes on it.

Edit:

Couldn't see crap. Pulled the flywheel. Key ok.

Edit 2:

Turns out it was still under warranty. It sucked nuts to get a dead 350 lb blower on the trailer single-handed and without ramps but dealer has it now. As a bonus there were a few brackets that had broken from vibration. I added them to the list of things they can warranty. It wasn't worth taking it in for but since it's there anyway, they can fix the issues.

I bet they throw a new motor on for 150 how much time can they spend trouble shooting.

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[GreyGhost]

I bet they throw a new motor on for 150 how much time can they spend trouble shooting.

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You may be right. I can't find actual engine prices. I have no idea what's in stock. The 414cc prices I can find are $600-2500. I have the 306cc. I'll keep my eyes open for a 420 to keep on the shelf as they are identical packaging and more power is better. Swapping with known good is faster and gives you time to repair the one that has failed.

They don't make it easy to fix yourself as there is no good troubleshooting guide, no complete wiring diagram and diagnostic equipment is restricted to authorized dealers only. Hell, nothing I found even mentions a crank position sensor but there is apparently one in there.

I can't find great pictures but it looks like a gear drive cam so that shouldn't be able to jump time. Both valves were moving in a way that made sense but I didn't check how they were timed vs crank.

Dealer hadn't seen issues before but said almost zero percent chance it was coil (even though I was getting inconsistent spark).

It just makes no sense. If ignition timing is fixed, cam timing can't really jump, , injection timing really shouldn't matter, how does it run backwards? Hopefully they tell me what went wrong. Only mark I left on the engine was a grease stick on flywheel as it was unmarked and I wanted to check ignition timing. Easy enough for them to clean that off if it needs to go back.

 

[Scuba Steve]

You may be right. I can't find actual engine prices. I have no idea what's in stock. The 414cc prices I can find are $600-2500. I have the 306cc. I'll keep my eyes open for a 420 to keep on the shelf as they are identical packaging and more power is better. Swapping with known good is faster and gives you time to repair the one that has failed.

They don't make it easy to fix yourself as there is no good troubleshooting guide, no complete wiring diagram and diagnostic equipment is restricted to authorized dealers only. Hell, nothing I found even mentions a crank position sensor but there is apparently one in there.

I can't find great pictures but it looks like a gear drive cam so that shouldn't be able to jump time. Both valves were moving in a way that made sense but I didn't check how they were timed vs crank.

Dealer hadn't seen issues before but said almost zero percent chance it was coil (even though I was getting inconsistent spark).

It just makes no sense. If ignition timing is fixed, cam timing can't really jump, , injection timing really shouldn't matter, how does it run backwards? Hopefully they tell me what went wrong. Only mark I left on the engine was a grease stick on flywheel as it was unmarked and I wanted to check ignition timing. Easy enough for them to clean that off if it needs to go back.

We pay around 180 for lifan 9 HP engines at work I bet the blower companies pay much less. I keep thinking of picking up a 40 HP to make a big snowblower or go cart but haven't yet.

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[GreyGhost]

We pay around 180 for lifan 9 HP engines at work I bet the blower companies pay much less. I keep thinking of picking up a 40 HP to make a big snowblower or go cart but haven't yet.

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Barrie is slowly clearing up streets with a blower mounted on a wheel loader. Blower is somewhere between 200 and 365 hp. It fills a dump truck in less than one minute.

 

[Hardwrkr13]

You may be right. I can't find actual engine prices. I have no idea what's in stock. The 414cc prices I can find are $600-2500. I have the 306cc. I'll keep my eyes open for a 420 to keep on the shelf as they are identical packaging and more power is better. Swapping with known good is faster and gives you time to repair the one that has failed.

They don't make it easy to fix yourself as there is no good troubleshooting guide, no complete wiring diagram and diagnostic equipment is restricted to authorized dealers only. Hell, nothing I found even mentions a crank position sensor but there is apparently one in there.

I can't find great pictures but it looks like a gear drive cam so that shouldn't be able to jump time. Both valves were moving in a way that made sense but I didn't check how they were timed vs crank.

Dealer hadn't seen issues before but said almost zero percent chance it was coil (even though I was getting inconsistent spark).

It just makes no sense. If ignition timing is fixed, cam timing can't really jump, , injection timing really shouldn't matter, how does it run backwards? Hopefully they tell me what went wrong. Only mark I left on the engine was a grease stick on flywheel as it was unmarked and I wanted to check ignition timing. Easy enough for them to clean that off if it needs to go back.

There's a snowblower repair FB group with lots of info on motor choices/swaps if interested.
FWIW the 414AX motor on my Ariens is a lovely beast and recommended (not sure who the motor supplier is but should be easily found).

 

[GreyGhost]

There's a snowblower repair FB group with lots of info on motor choices/swaps if interested.
FWIW the 414AX motor on my Ariens is a lovely beast and recommended (not sure who the motor supplier is but should be easily found).

LCT makes that one too. They sell a generic version of it. For husky/ariens they change things a little from the generic versions (of course they don't tell you what but my money is on value engineering).

 

[timtune]

I was welding my ramps and ran out of wire. I took @madmike 's advice and bought .030 instead of the .035 I normally run. Wow! It's like a whole new welder.

 

[timtune]

Exhaust gaskets arrived yesterday for the sled. Now I'm stealing myself up to go assembly the exhaust at -10 outside in the snow.

 

[xrljoel]

I keep breaking the shear bolt on the PTO of my tractor mounted snowblower. I have an idea what I'm doing wrong, but get only a slack-jawed, "I guess so." from the people behind the parts counter at 2 different ag. equipment dealers when I seek confirmation.

The tractor is a mid-sized 2005 90hp John Deere with 75 PTO horsepower within an RPM range of 2140 to (I don't recall). The blower is a 7ft. single auger. I've used, as recommended 3/8 diameter (might be 5/16?) grade 5 or similar 8.8 metric bolt/nut combos. The PTO shaft sits relatively straight, and I can turn the auger easily by hand at any position from grounded to the top of the 3pt hitch stroke.

My suspicion is that I'm running it at too low an RPM, allowing both snow to gather in front of the auger, as well as in the chute loading up the unit causing the shear to fail.

One of the parts monkey's suggested using a grade 8 bolt, but I'm not eager to tempt disaster with such an experiment. Shear bolts are supposed to shear, and from what I can tell metric grade 8.8 being slightly stronger than grade 5 is the maximum that should be used.

Opinions?

 

[GreyGhost]

I keep breaking the shear bolt on the PTO of my tractor mounted snowblower. I have an idea what I'm doing wrong, but get only a slack-jawed, "I guess so." from the people behind the parts counter at 2 different ag. equipment dealers when I seek confirmation.

The tractor is a mid-sized 2005 90hp John Deere with 75 PTO horsepower within an RPM range of 2140 to (I don't recall). The blower is a 7ft. single auger. I've used, as recommended 3/8 diameter (might be 5/16?) grade 5 or similar 8.8 metric bolt/nut combos. The PTO shaft sits relatively straight, and I can turn the auger easily by hand at any position from grounded to the top of the 3pt hitch stroke.

My suspicion is that I'm running it at too low an RPM, allowing both snow to gather in front of the auger, as well as in the chute loading up the unit causing the shear to fail.

One of the parts monkey's suggested using a grade 8 bolt, but I'm not eager to tempt disaster with such an experiment. Shear bolts are supposed to shear, and from what I can tell metric grade 8.8 being slightly stronger than grade 5 is the maximum that should be used.

Opinions?

Why not start with the same shear pin and higher rpm (or lower travel speed)? Is the shear pin supposed to be a bolt or is it supposed to be a smooth shank through the shear plane? How is shear pin fit through the hole? If it's too loose and rattling around, I find they break more easily.

 

[Scuba Steve]

I keep breaking the shear bolt on the PTO of my tractor mounted snowblower. I have an idea what I'm doing wrong, but get only a slack-jawed, "I guess so." from the people behind the parts counter at 2 different ag. equipment dealers when I seek confirmation.

The tractor is a mid-sized 2005 90hp John Deere with 75 PTO horsepower within an RPM range of 2140 to (I don't recall). The blower is a 7ft. single auger. I've used, as recommended 3/8 diameter (might be 5/16?) grade 5 or similar 8.8 metric bolt/nut combos. The PTO shaft sits relatively straight, and I can turn the auger easily by hand at any position from grounded to the top of the 3pt hitch stroke.

My suspicion is that I'm running it at too low an RPM, allowing both snow to gather in front of the auger, as well as in the chute loading up the unit causing the shear to fail.

One of the parts monkey's suggested using a grade 8 bolt, but I'm not eager to tempt disaster with such an experiment. Shear bolts are supposed to shear, and from what I can tell metric grade 8.8 being slightly stronger than grade 5 is the maximum that should be used.

Opinions?

Are you running at PTO rpm marked on the tach if not start there

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