Best Battery for CBR

ddzc

ddzc

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Hi all,

I have a Yuasa YTZ10S in my CBR (not sure if that's the oem). I've charged this battery and maintained it for a good wee and, with in half an hour in the bike it's completely dead. I've charged it a couple times over, same issue over and over, looks like I need a replacement.

Before picking up the same one, I was wondering if there are any others which are highly recommended and hold a charge better when sitting idle?

Thanks!
 
ddzc said:
Hi all,

I have a Yuasa YTZ10S in my CBR (not sure if that's the oem). I've charged this battery and maintained it for a good wee and, with in half an hour in the bike it's completely dead. I've charged it a couple times over, same issue over and over, looks like I need a replacement.

Before picking up the same one, I was wondering if there are any others which are highly recommended and hold a charge better when sitting idle?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

The YTZ10S is fine.

If you charge the battery and leave it disconnected, does it die within that timeframe? That is, disconnect it, charge it, wait an hour and then connect it and try to start the bike. If it starts fine then the battery itself is probably fine.

If the battery dies in the bike even when the ignition is "off" you probably have a bad reg/rec (regulator/rectifier) unit. There could be other things but that's where I'd start. After charging the battery, put your hand on the reg/rec; how warm is it? If it's "fine" it should be cold. If it's warm/hot there's an internal fault.

If the battery dies only when the bike is on and running then the on-board charging system on the bike isn't working. Check the aforementioned reg/rec as well as the alternator output.
 
Thanks for the help!

I don't have the bike on me so I'll do that testing on the weekend.

I had the battery fully charged out of the bike. Approx 2 hours later, I hooked it up in the bike, started no problem. Took it for a lap around the block. Stopped it. Started it 10 mins later without issues. I did an oil change, maybe half an hour. Ignition was in the off position the entire time. After the half hour, battery was dead, it tries to crank but the battery was giving the typical noise (typical to a car when it's dead). I have the battery out of the bike and on the charger now...it's been charging for a bit now so it was completely drained.
 
Sounds like something on the bike is loading the battery down.

Do you have a voltmeter? If so, start the bike and let it idle. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals. Rev the engine to, say, 3000 and measure the terminal voltage again. This basic test will tell you if the alternator & reg/rec is doing anything.
 
Thanks everyone again. I think it may be the regulator as suggested. I'll do that check (if there's any point) on Saturday, I just bought a voltmeter on sale at CT for 20 bucks.

I have the battery in my condo here with me so I did a little test. I fully charged it up again and then disconnected it from the charger for a day and a half. When I plugged it back in to my battery tender for charge, the green light immediately started flashing, which indicates that it's 80% charged already. Within half an hour, it was fully charged, so I'm assuming it was 90-95% charged.

It doesn't look like the issue is with the battery after all. Would anything other than the regulator be at fault in my case?

Thanks
 
Guys, the very first step - number one - is to have the battery LOAD-TESTED.
If it fails load-test (for whatever reason) you need a new battery.
You can't do ANY testing and diagnosis of your charging system until a known-good, load-tested battery is in place!

YTZ are the top-quality, sealed, high-powered physically small batteries for SS bikes. And they are expensive.
I suspect your battery is pooched and your charging system is just fine (from my experience)...
But any bike shop (or even Crappy Tire) will quickly load-test your existing battery, probably for no cost.

Typically the battery will 'die' from an internal short, they are somewhat fragile, and the internal plates will fracture from mechanical vibration and/or impacts (flying across railroad tracks, wheelies, brakies etc.)
Many riders have gone crazy trying to figure out their charging system, and "no it's not the battery, it's new and it's a good one too" but guess what?
Failed load-test.

I like the new, dry ('gel') batteries - the ones you can run upside-down or sideways - and they're physically small and light too.
They're more durable, but they cost though...
However a YTZ is like ~$175 bucks, so you might consider making the move.
Don't get a lesser battery to save money - there's no future in it. A top-quality battery, like I said even BETTER than stock, is always money very well spent!

Gel batteries are fantastic, but not perfect. They don't work well in freezing temps (ie. no good for snowmobiles).
Hopefully I'm wrong and your battery passes load test. They usually either pass, or they fail miserably. So there's no doubt. I've tested hundreds...
Stators and rotors and regulator/rectifiers cost too - so maybe, hopefully it's your battery heheh.
So good luck.
 
These are the batteries I like:
http://www.partscanada.com/app/webroot/catalogue/2015/street/en/#630/z
They are very durable. Money well spent.
More important the farther and farther one travels from home, heheh...
Hey, you don't want one of those cheap Chinese Yuasa clones if you're gonna be in the middle of nowhere, trust me.
I've sold a lot of cheap batteries, mostly to guys who just want to sell a bike or to get one certified, but I've also seen a LOT of them come back NFG.
L8R
 
For what it's worth, AGM is better than regular lead-acid for most people. Low self-discharge and faster recharge. I do a lot of short trips around downtown and my previous lead-acid battery would need topping up regularly. With AGM, I don't even need to monitor the voltage anymore. And I don't even take it out of the bike during winter.

Motobatt. Good stuff.
 
Last edited:
Wait - your YTZ10S is an AGM battery. It shouldn't be losing 10-15% in a mere day and a half. It's cooked.
 
ddzc said:
... it tries to crank but the battery was giving the typical noise (typical to a car when it's dead)....
Click to expand...

I have never had a battery for any vehicle or device of any kind make a noise. If your battery is making noises there is something very wrong with it. There are no moving parts in a battery to make noise.
 
Matt Rain said:
Wait - your YTZ10S is an AGM battery. It shouldn't be losing 10-15% in a mere day and a half. It's cooked.
Click to expand...

Might not be the battery. Easiest way to test:

Remove batter from bike, charge battery for a day. Check battery using a volt meter next day. If it's above 12v, something is wrong with the bike.

Or bring the battery to someone that can perform a load test.
 
unL33T said:
I have never had a battery for any vehicle or device of any kind make a noise. If your battery is making noises there is something very wrong with it. There are no moving parts in a battery to make noise.
Click to expand...
Guys, get a grip...
It's not the battery you're hearing - it's the starter solenoid.
 
Gryphon said:
Guys, get a grip...
It's not the battery you're hearing - it's the starter solenoid.
Click to expand...

Yep, the solenoid makes a clicking sound but the starter doesn't have enough juice to turn over. You're overthinking things, just get a new battery already.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Gryphon said:
Guys, get a grip...
It's not the battery you're hearing - it's the starter solenoid.
Click to expand...
That's what I usually hear but he said his battery was making noises.
 
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