If you love topes, boy do I have a road for you

This guy was right next to the hotel entrance in Palenque.

Cool looking entrance.

Hotels and restaurants lining this beautiful stone road in the zona touristica. On our (rain delay) day off here, we took a stroll away from the hotel zone and into town. Wow, as soon as we crossed the bridge it was like a different country. That elegant serpentine stone road gave way to potholes, loud music and all kinds of tienditas (little stores). It’s amazing the contrast between the two areas. I wish we had taken some pics there but of course our small camera is on the fritz and it was raining just a wee bit much for the big one.

At least we managed to get the bike packed before the skies and flood gates opened on us. Rain, and lots of it. Our rain delay the day before last prompted us to try and recall the last time we rode in the rain. None in January so far, December? Nope. November? Nope. October? Think again. We rode through a very light shower on our way to Mariposa in late September but the last time it really rained was back on Vancouver island, September 3 - and it wasn’t what I would call rain. That stuff closer resembled a monsoon! Rumour is Christian Slater and Morgan Freeman were trying to film the sequel to Hard Rain on Vancouver Island that day but had to call it off because it was raining too hard.
Ok so I came to learn that my Sidi GoreTex boots were no longer waterproof back in Alaska after intentionally stepping into a creek to gauge it's depth before taking Tigger across. Within seconds my sock was damp, confirming of course that yes, my boot was in fact no longer GoreTex waterproof.
When we finally arrived at our hotel in Victoria, BC after our all day slosh fest in September, I had taken off my boot and poured out enough water to sustain an entire garden in the Sahara for weeks. No creek, no river, it was just from sitting on the bike and riding in monsoon type rain all day. Here’s a little fun fact for you kids out there. Did you know you that if you use a hotel hair dryer to dry your clothes and boots for, oh I dunno, say an hour, the hairdryer itself will start to melt? I mean who knew, right?
Did anyone else just see that squirrel?
Anyway, our dry spell of nearly 5 months would officially come to an end today. Something that turned out to be in fact the good news. The bad news and another fun fact is that there are about 100,000 topes between Palenque and San Cristobal de las Casas. A stretch of road that is about 213km's long and should take about three and a half hours to complete according to Google, took us the entire day in the rain. Admittedly we did take a half hour break in some random town where Lori somehow managed to get talked into teaching a local some English numbers. He was quite enthusiastic and didn't want us to go.

I know what you're thinking, I thought the same thing. Boy that looks like a fun road. Don't let Google deceive you. This fine looking stretch of twisty highway is paved with potholes, washouts, more topes than I could count (hey I wonder if a step counter would work on counting topes?), dogs chasing cars and bikes, cows and goats. I know what else you're thinking. I just described the average road in Mexico. Ok fair enough. But for some reason this one seemed to be the pinnacle of crappy roads. Perhaps our opinion was just dampened by all that rain.
[video=youtube;ufmk3NOMATE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufmk3NOMATE[/video]
Another positive, we discovered our Klim gear really does work to keep us dry and also manages to keep us pretty warm. I was surprised when I noticed the temp had dipped all the way down to 8 as we ascended to 8000 feet. I was only wearing a t-shirt underneath the jacket but felt pretty comfy. Our Klim gear has actually been somewhat of a joke for us, because we haven't seen a drop of rain since getting the stuff back in September. Hey at the very least it's proven to be good insurance.
Typically we have a list of at least three hotels that Lori has vetted before we arrive in a new town. For some reason we decided our list of one would be enough for San Cristobal de las Casas. I think maybe we're out of practice because of course our hotel was full, and with darkness falling we found ourselves riding around town looking for something else suitable. Now there's definitely no shortage of hotels in San Cristobal, you can easily find something really nice in the $100-200/night range. No gracias! Turns out you can also find something in the $40 range with secure parking with just a little bit more work.
The next morning we awoke to a spectacular day and hit a cafe at the main plaza for some brekky. Jamon y queso quesadillas for Lori and Pepperoni y dos quesos Crepas for me. Yu-mmy! Lori had also made a list of a few places for us to check out for accommodations, all within walking distance. Our first stop was the
Rosco Backpackers hostel. True to what Lori had read, they offer a free night in their dorms (or 50% off a private room) to anyone riding a bike. We got a great vibe from everyone there. “Great, we’ll be back in an hour,” we said.

Not only was Jorge the owner super friendly but he also rides, his two GS's proudly parked inside the courtyard. He also spends part of the year living in Quebec but we won't hold that against him.
While walking back to our hotel, we quite literally nearly walked into our friends Seb and Kim from
wanderingsouls who we met at the HU meeting in Mariposa. At the time they were travelling around Canada and the US in their van that they shipped over from Belgium. Shortly after the HU meeting they decided to go back home and return to North America with their two motorcycles and ride to South America. Neither of us knew we were all in San Cristobal when we just happen to walk down the same street at the same time. C'mon how cool is that? After moving our gear to the hostel, we spent the rest of the day hanging out with Seb & Kim catching up. They talked about riding through snow in Chihuahua, Mexico (yes there is snow in Mexico) while we talked about the heat of Merida. C'mon, what are friends for?

Seb lining up the shot.

The walkway at the plaza downtown.

While trying to fall asleep back at the hostel that night, we discovered our next door neighbour liked to do impressions of Meg Ryan at a diner. Lucky for us (too bad for her) it was very short lived experience. Other than the nightly entertainment, the hostel also offered on site full service laundry, a nightly bonfire and tours.

Back at the main plaza. Catedral de San Cristobal in the background.

Indigenous women selling everything from toys and trinkets to clothing. They can be found all over the downtown core. They typically walk right up to you offering you whatever they have. We find ourselves saying "no gracias" half a dozen times before they move on. Of course I have to keep Lori in check because she doesn't always say no and we only have one bike after all.

How about some ice cream delivered right to you instead?

Like a moth to a flame, Lori spotted a market nearby. Fantastic colours!