Seafoam In Oil

oren102 said:
I've been treating my mom's old 97 camry with 1/3,1/3,1/3 and it runs great, no issues for the three years i've been doing it. Than again it might not be the seafoam but just the amount of preventative maintenance I put into it...

Anyhow, I wont be putting it in my bike oil, I'll leave the testing to someone else :P If someone ever does come across this thread who has done it on a bike, I'd love to hear from you!
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Post #7 and #13
 
RockerGuy said:
Dude stop wasting time and money and just ride the bike.

You're using rotella which is a diesel oil. D oils have alot of detergents in them to fight the carbon build-up in diesel engines.

You already change your oil at 2k km, thats enough to clean and flush any buildup u may have. How much cleaner do u want it to be?

How about tear down your engine and make sure there's nothing there whatsoever?
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Im going to have to agree with rocker here, run the Rotella in my oiler , its 22 years old, No problems there.
 
toysareforboys said:
You can send your oil to be analyzed for $18 (or $26 if you want TBN) so you know if you're changing it "too often". A quality filter will stop the oil from going back as well, using those Amsoil filters I linked above, the oil comes out a nice honey colour, same as it went in! After doing oil analysis on my old R6 I was able to go 11,000km's on my oil, with only having to change the filter every 5,500km. So I only had to change my oil every other oil change :) Saves some serious coin if you are using any flavour of synthetic.
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That's the only way to determine when to change your oil. Every engine is different and ridden different. Fuel delusion is a common issue. If you want to learn about oil you should read http://www.bobistheoilguy.com. The forums are good.
 
imkruzen said:
That's the only way to determine when to change your oil. Every engine is different and ridden different. Fuel delusion is a common issue. If you want to learn about oil you should read http://www.bobistheoilguy.com. The forums are good.
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Tru dat, bob is my hero!!!

-Jamie M.
 
imkruzen said:
That's the only way to determine when to change your oil. Every engine is different and ridden different. Fuel delusion is a common issue. If you want to learn about oil you should read http://www.bobistheoilguy.com. The forums are good.
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Been there done that. Got my oil analysed. I did it at 10k, they told me there's still TBN left. I could run it for another 2k if possible, but I think 10k is good for synthetics.
 
RockerGuy said:
Been there done that. Got my oil analysed. I did it at 10k, they told me there's still TBN left. I could run it for another 2k if possible, but I think 10k is good for synthetics.
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I read about a guy with a diesel tractor that has 238,000 miles on his AMSOIL with the by-pass filter system. He has oil analysis done every 20,000 miles. You can change your oil when ever you want, but oil analysis can also provide information of pending component failure and engine condition. Bob has a great site on oil.
 
imkruzen said:
I read about a guy with a diesel tractor that has 238,000 miles on his AMSOIL with the by-pass filter system. He has oil analysis done every 20,000 miles. You can change your oil when ever you want, but oil analysis can also provide information of pending component failure and engine condition. Bob has a great site on oil.
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LOL, sometimes I wonder how real those tests done by Amsoil are.

I must admit they are really good oil, but are they really that good? As in the results they display?

Must be a big farm for that tractor too.

edit: My previous tests
http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/showthread.php?144099-Amsoil-Motor-oil
 
imkruzen said:
Rotella is Group III and AMSOIL is a true PAO Group IV, I prefer the Group IV true synthetics.
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Even T6 is group III? Such a debate on that.

I also asked Amsoil if their oil was Group IV and they said, and I quote directly: "We choose not to look at what the Base Stock is comprised of for various reasons and choose to look at overall performance". That SCREAMS to me it's not a Group IV, it's just a fancy group III!!!

I dunno, I guess if it "performes as well as" a group IV I'll call it Group IV :(

-Jamie M.
 
When I was restoring my 82 Honda CB900F the entire drive train was gunked up so bad I couldn't even get the back wheel to spin... After getting it running, me and my mechanic dropped seafoam into the oil and let it work for a bit to clean things up and then did an oil change.. a couple of times doing this and the bike literally runs like a brand new machine again after sitting 27 years.
 
toysareforboys said:
Even T6 is group III? Such a debate on that. I also asked Amsoil if their oil was Group IV and they said, and I quote directly: "We choose not to look at what the Base Stock is comprised of for various reasons and choose to look at overall performance". That SCREAMS to me it's not a Group IV, it's just a fancy group III!!! I dunno, I guess if it "performes as well as" a group IV I'll call it Group IV :( -Jamie M.
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No debate, Rotella is hydrocracked Group III As far as I know Valvoline's SynPower is a blend of PAO and group III, mostly group III in all grades except the 20W-50 Castrol Syntec except the German Castrol 0W-30 is all group III. GC is a PAO oil. Redline Group V Royal Purple Group IV Motul 5100 Group V Rotella 5W-40 Group III All Amsoil products are PAO except the XL-7500 line. TBN on Rotella is 10.5 and AMSOIL is 12 giving it extended drain periods.
 
imkruzen said:
No debate, Rotella is hydrocracked Group III As far as I know Valvoline's SynPower is a blend of PAO and group III, mostly group III in all grades except the 20W-50 Castrol Syntec except the German Castrol 0W-30 is all group III. GC is a PAO oil. Redline Group V Royal Purple Group IV Motul 5100 Group V Rotella 5W-40 Group III All Amsoil products are PAO except the XL-7500 line. TBN on Rotella is 10.5 and AMSOIL is 12 giving it extended drain periods.
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Thanks for the detailed info :) I just got signed up for wholesale Amsoil pricing and will be ready to place my first order in the next day or two.

I'm getting a 12L case of: MCFQT-CA 10W-40 Advanced Synthetic Motorcycle Oil
Two EaOM103 Synthetic Nano Fiber Motorcycle Oil Filters (one for my buddies 04 VFR 800 and one for my GF's 09 R6).
One Ea15K13 Synthetic Nano Fiber Car Oil Filter (for my 09 R6S).

I'm doing a pre-filter change particle analysis on the oil in there currently (almost 3,000km on it now), leaving the old oil in and just putting on the new EA15K13 filter, doing another particle analysis after another 3,000km's, see how much better those new Amsoil filters really are :)

-Jamie M.
 
imkruzen said:
Rotella is Group III and AMSOIL is a true PAO Group IV, I prefer the Group IV true synthetics.
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My test was for Amsoil.

Group III based oil can be considered a synthetic in the US, not in other countries. So most "European Formula" oil like Mobil 0w-40 & Castrol 0w-30 are considered true synthetics
 
toysareforboys said:
Thanks for the detailed info :) I just got signed up for wholesale Amsoil pricing and will be ready to place my first order in the next day or two.

I'm getting a 12L case of: MCFQT-CA 10W-40 Advanced Synthetic Motorcycle Oil
Two EaOM103 Synthetic Nano Fiber Motorcycle Oil Filters (one for my buddies 04 VFR 800 and one for my GF's 09 R6).
One Ea15K13 Synthetic Nano Fiber Car Oil Filter (for my 09 R6S).

I'm doing a pre-filter change particle analysis on the oil in there currently (almost 3,000km on it now), leaving the old oil in and just putting on the new EA15K13 filter, doing another particle analysis after another 3,000km's, see how much better those new Amsoil filters really are :)

-Jamie M.
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If you're curious, you can cut open an oil filter to see the construction. It would give a good picture of how well it would function.

Silicon bypass valve & a metal spring is more valued and will do a better job.

http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/showthread.php?143552-Kimpex-Oil-Filter
 
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