tire warm-up?

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I've had bias ply tires at subzero temperatures for 4k+ km. Now I wasn't riding like a fool but not like a grandpa either and never did the tires ever let out on me or lose traction if It wasn't my fault with the controls. Majority of that was on crappy Ninja 250 stock tires, then it was a combination of Metzeler Lasertec front and BT-45 rear (wore out the Metzeler rear in the fall, and planned on riding through winter). After the stock IRC tires I had utmost confidence in anything else...Anything above +5 degress you're fine on ANY modern street radials, you're not some pro whose gonna be hitting those corner maxed out...now if you think you can then no tires will make a difference.
 
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fastar1 said:
I would just like to point out to all the regular track star naysayers here that the OP never said anything about getting it up to ideal operating temp. I think he realises that at least getting the tire closer to the optimal temperature will afford him a little more grip so he can safely lean a little more through corners.
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The post above yours, made by someone that knows more than ANYONE here about this particular subject, states that it is NOT possible to get a tire anywhere close to operating temperature in the time/conditions mentioned in the original post, the tire will be no closer to optimum grip temp when his commute is over than they were leaving his house.
 
Around this time of the season warm tires should be the least of your worries. Early morning is the highest point for due point or moisture buildup on the roads. This with the combination of gravel and it wouldn't matter if you rear tire was on fire your going to loose it quick.
 
reciprocity said:
The post above yours, made by someone that knows more than ANYONE here about this particular subject, states that it is NOT possible to get a tire anywhere close to operating temperature in the time/conditions mentioned in the original post, the tire will be no closer to optimum grip temp when his commute is over than they were leaving his house.
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Great point....I now find that rider skill is more of a factor in my daily commute situation than anything else.... so I will work up to a good lean over the months to come, and in the mean time, keep my body and bike in one piece.
 
If it was me, and I had 5-6 minutes of some sillyness, I would get an old set of warmers, and come out of the garage wheeling... but I am a tad loose in the head...

I owned an Aprillia SXV, and I would put it on warmers and then shoot over to the industrial area (partially under construction) and have a blast. Did they stay warm... all depends how much fun I was having....
 
Or,the rider could take the warmers off and head to pit out.Just sayin'.
 
any hoo.....

Lower your psi = tire flex = warmer tire
try 28 PSI to start.....

every 2 days add 1 pound...everytime you get off your bike, feel the heat in your tires...
and find where they work for you..(is NOT 42psi btw)
on your bike maybe 30-32 would work best...but start low

I've run several sets of the bt016 and know them well....Hard carcass....hard in the centre...
but very strong...they need to flex to aid in the stick...
give it try and report back
 
GSXMAER said:
any hoo.....

Lower your psi = tire flex = warmer tire
try 28 PSI to start.....

every 2 days add 1 pound...everytime you get off your bike, feel the heat in your tires...
and find where they work for you..(is NOT 42psi btw)
on your bike maybe 30-32 would work best...but start low

I've run several sets of the bt016 and know them well....Hard carcass....hard in the centre...
but very strong...they need to flex to aid in the stick...
give it try and report back
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Hmm, that's what I was thinking, since I will be using the bike to do short commute most of the time. But would it wear out the tire faster though?
I need to find an way to measure the tire pressure ACCURATELY (I find the mini tire pressure meter my mom gave me is way off), any suggestion on this?
 
more surface area = more traction = less wheel spin = less wear

canadian tire has cheap digital gauges
 
GSXMAER said:
more surface area = more traction = less wheel spin = less wear
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That doesn't make sense to me. Wouldn't wear increase with a larger contact patch (surface area)? The lower the tire pressure, the larger the contact patch, the greater the wear. Wear doesn't just happen from wheel spin. Just my thoughts. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
mroberto said:
That doesn't make sense to me. Wouldn't wear increase with a larger contact patch (surface area)? The lower the tire pressure, the larger the contact patch, the greater the wear. Wear doesn't just happen from wheel spin. Just my thoughts. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Wear only happens from wheelspin (or slip). Your tire is always slipping as long as your bike is moving. The harder you push the tire, the more it slips.

I don't know about lower pressure = less wear though. Maybe you're just spreading the same amount of wear over a greater tread surface area so you end up with longer tire life. Effectively less wear, yeah.
 
I'd probably just ride a bicycle if I lived that close to school/work. :P

It would take my longer to gear up and get the bike out than it would to get there. lol
 
fastar1 said:
Wear only happens from wheelspin (or slip). Your tire is always slipping as long as your bike is moving. The harder you push the tire, the more it slips.
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so, you're saying that my bike rolling in a straight line, at a fixed speed, is slipping?

Someone should tell those guys using rolling meter sticks to stop wasting their time cause their wheels are slipping!

CALCULATED-INDUSTRIES-DigiRoller-Plus-BEN-_i_103418_01.jpg
 
fastar1 said:
I don't know about lower pressure = less wear though. Maybe you're just spreading the same amount of wear over a greater tread surface area so you end up with longer tire life. Effectively less wear, yeah.
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You do know, that is false as well.
Lower pressures = more wear, not less wear.
 
You again.

mike.from.canmore said:
so, you're saying that my bike rolling in a straight line, at a fixed speed, is slipping?
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Yes.

Someone should tell those guys using rolling meter sticks to stop wasting their time cause their wheels are slipping!

CALCULATED-INDUSTRIES-DigiRoller-Plus-BEN-_i_103418_01.jpg
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The slip is already accounted for when it's calibrated, within the range of precision of the instrument.
 
WOW


UHmmmmmm
Where does this guy live that he gets to run the mountain course on the way to work every morning?
 
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