Rattle can paint for race glass?

FriendlyFoe

FriendlyFoe

Well-known member
I tend to fall down lots so i figured i'd paint my own fairings. I'm wondering what sort of rattle can paint in a full gloss thats suitable for spraying fiberglass, as im thinking i'll need something with a bit of flex agent in it? What should i use and where can i get it?

Thanks!
 
any automotive spray paint will work. Canadian Tire.

keep in mind that if you ever do want to get a real paint job for it, you'll have to remove all the spray paint before laying on the good stuff.
 
You might want to look into Krylon Fusion plastic paint. I've used it on dirt bike plastic with good success. It's an idea, anyway.
 
Be sure to use an automotive grade clear over the tank. My buddy didn't and every drop of gas on fillups left sticky smears in the paint on his fuel tank....which also smeared onto his leathers when racing./
 
How do you want to use two stage gasoline resistant clear coat (any other cler coat will not resist gasoline as far as I know) over CT spray can stuff? I was always told by the paint shops that you cannot do that, because the two stage clear coat will lift it ... not speaking about the fact that breathing the two stage stuff is not good for you ....
 
mxs said:
How do you want to use two stage gasoline resistant clear coat (any other cler coat will not resist gasoline as far as I know) over CT spray can stuff? I was always told by the paint shops that you cannot do that, because the two stage clear coat will lift it ... not speaking about the fact that breathing the two stage stuff is not good for you ....
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Maybe i cant, the design i'm going to go with the tank will be a solid colour either black or white so if i need to have the tank painted professionally so be it.
 
Urethane clearcoat can be applied over standard lacquer (solvent based) spray-bomb paint - done it many times. It's possible that the adhesion to the underlying primer might not be as durable as if you had used the proper base coat, and if you've ever applied wax or polish, that will have to be removed - probably by sanding, since solvents will remove the paint itself. But, it can be done.

Tremclad, Krylon, etc enamel paints aren't meant to be clear-coated, and I don't know what would happen if you tried, but it's probably not good. Those are hard to remove afterwards, too.
 
I've painted a few. I get the paint shop to mix the paint and clear coat all in one spray can. Three or four coats and you're good to go.
 
pm sent, sounds like you've done this before.

Had no idea you could even mix clear and paint together to get a similar effect (durable paint). Not looking for a professional quality job, just something half way descent. It's just a budget SV and i'd rather spend my money on track days and tires!
 
Yamaha_Gurl said:
Always try to do the left side of the bike better....for pics of course :)
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+100000 hahaha

My boot would rub the paint off my tail fairing so I'd always touch up the left side first, if time permitted I'd also do the right...

And I used krylon from Canadian tire. We originally used the expensive stuff from the paint shop with a gun first but then decided to switch to krylon which ended up being more durable and a lot cheaper.
 
fsilva_mcl said:
+100000 hahaha

My boot would rub the paint off my tail fairing so I'd always touch up the left side first, if time permitted I'd also do the right...

And I used krylon from Canadian tire. We originally used the expensive stuff from the paint shop with a gun first but then decided to switch to krylon which ended up being more durable and a lot cheaper.
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Your bike is SO bad that I even p-chopped the paint scratches out of it! lol Can't wait to not have to do that with your new bike! :)
 
Yamaha_Gurl said:
You do know what I mean right? For track pics...it's always the left side that you see, at TMP and Shanny at least.
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I did, it was funny, sorry if there was some confusion lol
 
inreb said:
You might want to look into Krylon Fusion plastic paint. I've used it on dirt bike plastic with good success. It's an idea, anyway.
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DO NOT use Krylon fusion if you ever plan on painting it properly using a automotive catalyzed urethane paint system. If you try painting over fusion it will bubble even if fully cured. It needs to be completely stripped which is a PITA. Better to stick with a lacquer / Clear system.
 
CBRJOHN said:
DO NOT use Krylon fusion if you ever plan on painting it properly using a automotive catalyzed urethane paint system. If you try painting over fusion it will bubble even if fully cured. It needs to be completely stripped which is a PITA. Better to stick with a lacquer / Clear system.
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Ok I'm gonna ask here; I've painted mine with automotive lacquer and it has a satin like finish which is not exactly smooth. To have a nice say shiny smooth finish, do I need to apply a clear coat; will this do the job. Thanks
 
I used a can or Tremclad and a foam rolller, turned out better than I expected.. Smooth finish and no clear coat required. Looks like it was spayed.
I found a thread from a guy that described how to paint a car with a roller, Search $50 pain job on the internet and you'll find all kinds of info.
Here is the original thread http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
Here's a picture of his car painted with a roller

Picture10.jpg


The nice thing about this is you can paint in the comfort of your home over winter,
I just finished painting my entire track bike in my basement without any mess.
 
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inreb said:
You might want to look into Krylon Fusion plastic paint. I've used it on dirt bike plastic with good success. It's an idea, anyway.
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RobVN said:
Ok I'm gonna ask here; I've painted mine with automotive lacquer and it has a satin like finish which is not exactly smooth. To have a nice say shiny smooth finish, do I need to apply a clear coat; will this do the job. Thanks
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If it's not smooth and provided you have decent film thickness you can wet sand it with 600+ grit wet dry sandpaper over a foam sanding block then spray it with a clear coat. I've had good results with Dupli Color clear top coat which is a acrylic lacquer clear. Just don't expect the durability to be on par with catalyzed urethane clears.

The best results that are more economical than automotive base clear systems was with Nason one step urethane and using a integrated clear final coat. But those systems are going away in favor of water based systems.
 
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