Trailer width and fuel economy. | GTAMotorcycle.com

Trailer width and fuel economy.

rmemedic

Well-known member
I'm needing a new enclosed trailer this spring for my racing. I've come across a bit of a deal where if I upgrade to a 7' wide trailer I get 900 in extras on the trailer, which are all things I would have added anyways. The 6' wide I was looking at is $500 less than the 7' and has $400 in extras, also are the ones I would have needed.

I don't really need the 7' width but considering the prices and extras, it's a better deal considering I need those options to make the trailer function for my use.

Main question is how much worse will it be on fuel? They are both a v-nose. Pulling with my lifted gmc canyon, so my truck is a touch narrower than the trailer. Eventually will have a full size, but not likely this year.

Both trailers are aluminum and 12' in length.
 
Why do you think tractors are similar in width as their trailers?

I would personally get the size you need....my trailer is the width of my SUV and its open, and my fuel economy does not really drop a whole lot even with two bikes and a SUV filled with stuff..
 
Don't think you will even notice the difference in fuel.
Half a foot on either side wider and maybe 100-150lbs heavier isnt going
to effect to much when you up in that size anyway.
Pm me details as in also looking for a trailer, maybe get a better deal on 2.
 
I don't know if anyone can answer for sure, but my gut says it will make a big enough difference to maybe offset the savings over time. Maybe an extra 1-2L per 100 km. Guessing of course, but say it's $2 per 100km then how many km would you have to do before it negates the savings?
 
The height is normally what makes the big impact on fuel mileage on the highway.

I'm guessing you're looking at a 7x14 or 7x16? Which likely means its a tandem axle with electric brakes? Now you'll need a brake controller in the truck not to mention the extra axles add a lot of weight to the trailer. With the extra weight and width i bet you'd noticed a decent change in fuel consumption. I am not 100% sure but I think that if your trailer is tandem axle with brakes it needs to be inspected annually. Can anyone confirm this?

I don't mean to sound like a dick but unless you're bringing two bikes and have a big set up you can get by fine with a 5x10 trailer. I had a 5x8 that was fine for a single bike and all my crap but it was tight in there. A 5x10 would have been perfect for me. 6x10 and 6x12 are the most common though. Single axle, no brakes, simple trailers.
 
I've come across a bit of a deal where if I upgrade to a 7' wide trailer I get 900 in extras on the trailer, which are all things I would have added anyways. The 6' wide I was looking at is $500 less than the 7' and has $400 in extras, also are the ones I would have needed.

...wait a minute, you're saying the 7ft trailer is $500 more and it comes with $500 in additional extras compared to the 6ft. So where's the savings? They end up being the same price.
 
With the extra weight and width i bet you'd noticed a decent change in fuel consumption. I am not 100% sure but I think that if your trailer is tandem axle with brakes it needs to be inspected annually. Can anyone confirm this?

I've helped a company build and rebuild tandem axle trailers (all with electric brakes) and none of them have ever been inspected. I don't know if this is correct/legal or not, but if a business with multiple trailers being used daily can escape the potential law, the chance of someone going to trackdays getting busted is low.

Personally for the incremental cost, I'll take trailer brakes on almost any of these cube trailers (especially when towed with a small pickup, try descending a gravel hill without trailer brakes and see how quickly everything can go wrong).
 
The trailer is a 7x12 all aluminum single axle v-nose. No breaks but I may order them.

I currently have a 5x10. Up front I have a work bench with a 6 drawer chest stuffed with tools, all my fluids I need for the track. Under the bench I put my riding gear and all of my camping stuff.
I manage to fit an fz6 and a yz250f in there too. It's stuffed in there and I have to load everything in sequence to fit it all. It's a home built trailer and I'm pushing it's limits. It's much better as a sled trailer which it's used for in the winter.

The new trailer will comfortably fit my gear, one of the options it comes with is a bin designed for helmets and gear so that already saves space. Has a side entry door so I can get stuff at the front without crawling over my bikes, and there is enough room in there to do emergency repairs out of the rain.
I am throwing in a fold down bed so I can sleep in the trailer instead of my tent, and saves me time for camp set up.
I race every weekend so I will get the use out of it.
 
I've helped a company build and rebuild tandem axle trailers (all with electric brakes) and none of them have ever been inspected. I don't know if this is correct/legal or not, but if a business with multiple trailers being used daily can escape the potential law, the chance of someone going to trackdays getting busted is low.

Personally for the incremental cost, I'll take trailer brakes on almost any of these cube trailers (especially when towed with a small pickup, try descending a gravel hill without trailer brakes and see how quickly everything can go wrong).

Tandem axles have to be inspected annually as Caboose said earlier ..

You got lucky, but if you had to go through a MTO roadside check .. youd be upshit creek.
 
Total combined weight is the determinining factor not axles, if you need and annual inspection. Someone please show me this in writing as I would like to know if I am wrong as I do not get my tandems inspected as the total weight truck + trailer is under 4500kg. Brakes are a must on any trailer IMHO and the vee does not effect fuel economy, it is only the size of the trailer, the drag is from the back of the trailer.
 
Total combined weight is the determinining factor not axles, if you need and annual inspection. Someone please show me this in writing as I would like to know if I am wrong as I do not get my tandems inspected as the total weight truck + trailer is under 4500kg. Brakes are a must on any trailer IMHO and the vee does not effect fuel economy, it is only the size of the trailer, the drag is from the back of the trailer.

Drag also comes from the front. There's a reason why transports have roof deflectors.
 
Sorry your right ..

It is dependent on your weight .. 4500 kgs + combined is when your annual comes into play.

By the time you incorporate a normal sized pick up truck with tandem axles .. your into the annual.
 
Talked to the trailer guy, he had the manufacturer of at least one of the trailers derate the trailer to put him under 4500kg combined. If you get caught with a bobcat on it, you're in trouble, but if it is lightly loaded you're still ok.
 
you really won't notice the difference with the width.

I got the same economy towing a 6X12 trailer as I did towing a 7X16 with my grand cherokee(about the same width as your truck)

The V really makes no difference as well.
 
the trailer will be 1000-1200lbs depending on construction.

with everything else, prob around 2000lbs.
 
out of curiosity what does a 5x10 trailer with a 600cc, 1500w generator, camping gear, fluids and some tools usually come in at?

How much fluid are you carrying? Or does that depend on the time of the month you're towing?
 
Why do you think tractors are similar in width as their trailers?

Commercial trailer dimensions are limited by law. Tractor manufacturers manufacture their widest tractors to match the trailer width so they can offer the most cab space. They can't go wider but often go under. Aerodynamics has got **** all to do with it. They don't all match in size. Which is why narrower tractors have aero spoilers on the sides to help air flow around the outside of the trailer.
 
Aerodynamics has A LOT to do with modern tractor-trailer tractor design. When you are on the road every day, improving from 7.0 mpg to 7.1 mpg via aerodynamics is HUGE. The trailers are standardized - and many modern tractor units are designed to optimize airflow of the combined tractor and standardized trailer in the interest of reducing drag.

Note how the roofline blends smoothly with the roofline of the standardized trailer, and the side fairings extend back as far as possible to minimize the gap between the tractor and the trailer, and the fuel tanks are faired in to keep the airflow out so that it does not go headlong into the face of the drive wheels.

peterbilt-truck-04.jpg


For the original poster, the frontal area of the trailer will absolutely affect the fuel consumption of the vehicle. If the trailer is more-or-less within the frontal area of the truck, it won't be too bad, but extending out from the frontal area of the truck means the trailer will be outside the wake of the truck. The drag will be more or less in proportion to the frontal area (width x height).
 

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