SV650 Track bike running poorly | GTAMotorcycle.com

SV650 Track bike running poorly

oomis

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Full backstory, may not all be relevant but I'll include it in case - I have a 99 SV650 (carburated) track bike that's been in storage for a while. Float bowls were drained, bike was put on a trickle charger, gas tank full of Shell 91 with Seafoam in to stabilize it. Kept (mostly) in a heated garage.

Pulled it out this year, put it on a charger for a bit, bike would crank but wouldn't turn over. Used a trickle charger / maintainer, but when the battery started to run down, switched to an automotive style charger, and used the 75 A starter setting to turn the bike over when the battery was completely dead. (as I'm thinking about it now, I'm wondering if this might have damaged my battery). Went with Quick Start, still wouldn't catch. Drained the fuel, replaced with fresh and included Seafoam in anticipation of some gunk in the carbs.

Discovered the petcock was stuck closed, was able to unstick it. Fuel filter looks clean, petcock full of gunk, cleaned it out, but tank didn't seem to be full of crud. Diaphragms weren't torn, went back together, bike starts and idles. Doesn't sound great, but figured the Seafoam (which I've had success with previously) needed some time to work it's magic.

Since it's a track only bike, I rode it around the block a couple of times, but couldn't really do a full shakedown.

Get to the track yesterday, and it runs like crap. For my first session, it starts and idles ok, but as soon as I get on the gas it starts sounding and feeling like it's running on only one cylinder. At WOT, it is slow to respond (making downshifting difficult), on straightaways it bucks and apparently backfires...it's not fun. I'm thinking at this point it's a carburation issue - one cylinder is working fine, but not the other. This tells me it's not a fuel problem - if it was a fuel problem it would affect both cylinders equally, which would make the bike hard to start and idle.

Throughout the day, the bike gets harder and harder to start, and in my last 2 sessions I need a bump start - the starter motor won't even turn over. It's clear that either the battery is dead and / or there's a problem with the charging system.

This bike is a former race bike, and was heavily modified. The wiring harness is cut right down, so there's no superflous electrical remaining - there's no gauges at all, for example. So the load on the battery while it's running isn't a huge one.

I don't know if I have two problems (carburator issue and dead batter) or one (some sort of larger electrical issue - stator / rotor / coil).

Next steps - put the batter on a charger and see what kind of charge it holds and pull the spark plugs to check their condition and to check for spark. Afterh that I may pull the carbs and check the float bowls. Maybe I have a dislodged jet - since it idles fine and only craps out under throttle, perhaps a main jet has come loose. Would be weird, but I know it's happened before.

Any and all thought welcome. Will update as I make progress. Looking to get all this resolved by next Friday, I have a track session booked at GB and it'd suck if I couldn't make it. Just put some new suspenders on the bike and man is it magical in the corners.

Peace and grease.

O
 
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Update: voltmeter reads 12.31 standing volts when bike is off. However when I hit the starter button, there's not enough juice to turn the motor over and voltage drops to below 2. Battery seems pooched.
 
here's the plugs. rear cylinder is on the left, front on the right.

Both look ok to me.

I had the bike on a charger for a bit - not that long - and it started up pretty easily. Voltage read about 13 volts at idle, didn't increase with RPM.

And only the rear cylinder is firing - water on the rear header steamed up quickly. No heat was being transferred to the front cylinder. Spark check next.
 

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Those plugs look fine. Test the entire charging system, sounds like you may need a new R/R.
 
So, knowing that the front cylinder isn't firing because the header isn't getting hot, that localizes the (one of the) problems. Spark check shows good spark when I ground the plug against the motor. Leaving the boot off and the bike runs and sounds exactly the same, which means that I have a fuelling problem to the front cylinder. Pulling the carbs next and having a look at the front float bowl.
 
Those plugs look fine. Test the entire charging system, sounds like you may need a new R/R.

The R/R passed a continuity test...pulling the stator will be a last resort...
 
No need to pull it, you can test the voltage between the 3 phases at idle.

Checked continuity between 3 phases on the stator at the plug, nothing went to ground. Did ohm test at the plug, got consistent and equal readings. Did voltage test while idling and got readings between 6.8 and 8.5 consistently between all 3 phases (cheap master craft multimeter on the 200v setting) but I didn't get a voltage increase when revs were increased. I seemed to get a voltage drop.
 
Checked continuity between 3 phases on the stator at the plug, nothing went to ground. Did ohm test at the plug, got consistent and equal readings. Did voltage test while idling and got readings between 6.8 and 8.5 consistently between all 3 phases (cheap master craft multimeter on the 200v setting) but I didn't get a voltage increase when revs were increased. I seemed to get a voltage drop.


Okay, you said R/R so I was confused. Did you set the meter to AC? The voltage drop is odd.


Was that on the 200 Volt AC or DC setting? On the stator side of the R/R use AC readings. Open circuit should be 60~80 Volt range, with the R/R connected should be 15 Volts +/-.
If you were reading DC Volts on the stator side you can’t trust what the meter is telling you. The waveform is severely distorted and could read almost anything on a DC meter.
 
Was that on the 200 Volt AC or DC setting? On the stator side of the R/R use AC readings. Open circuit should be 60~80 Volt range, with the R/R connected should be 15 Volts +/-.
If you were reading DC Volts on the stator side you can’t trust what the meter is telling you. The waveform is severely distorted and could read almost anything on a DC meter.

I'll doublecheck all that good stuff.

Right now I have the carbs off - the front carb where the problem is doesn't seem to be bad, based on a quick inspection inside the float bowl. But I'll clean it and blow out the jets.

I popped into Zdenos for some parts - it could be the front coil / boot, could be the spark plugs, could be the fuel pump (vaccuum pump). Since I don't have much time, I'm killing a bunch of birds with one stone, and the parts were cheap. Will see what progress I can make tonight.
 
Success! Pulled the carbs and the though the float bowl in the front looked pretty good, a jet was plugged. Cleaned it, re-assembled and the motor's firing the way it should!

While I was at it I replaced the spark plugs.

Tonight I'll sync the carbs and have another look at the electrical system.
 

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