Stripped Bolt Head on Vortex Clip-On

Mr.Azim

Mr.Azim

Well-known member
I'm pulling my forks for service and there's a stripped bolt head on the vortex clip-on....... I've tried everything, grabber bits and whatnot. It's impossible to get a straight go at it because of the angle, and the bolt head itself is 3/4 flush into the bracket because of it's design.

Bulagh.

I would just cut it and drill it out afterwards, but there's no space to get the bolt threads.

Help?

Already got a replacement bolt, just need to get this mofo out. The hex head is pretty well rounded now :(
 
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Pound in an SAE size that might be a little bigger, with a hammer. Then you will obviously need a new bolt.
 
Mr.Azim said:
I'm pulling my forks for service and there's a stripped bolt head on the vortex clip-on....... what pieces of **** they are. I've tried everything, grabber bits and whatnot. It's impossible to get a straight go at it because of the angle, and the bolt head itself is 3/4 flush into the bracket because of it's design.

Bulagh.

I would just cut it and drill it out afterwards, but there's no space to get the bolt threads.

Help?

Already got a replacement bolt, just need to get this mofo out. The hex head is pretty well rounded now :(
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Pics?

Use a reverse drill if theres space


Sent from my phone using my paws
 
No room for a drill, it would be angled for sure....... possible for a hammer, I'll have a go at it in the next day or two. Thanks.

New bolt is on order.
 
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Mr.Azim said:
It's got no wheels, 1 fork and no shock right now :( lol

This is the very last bugger to remove! Stupid Murphy's law.
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If the clamp has paired bolts on each side then tighten the one next to the one with the rounded (not stripped) bolt, to remove some tension on it.

Then reverse drill bit and extractor set from CT should get it out. If locktited, heat it up woth a torch first.
 
Vortex clipons = should use locktite.....

If Locktite was used....heat it the best to break its bond. If you don't have space for a reverse drill, you can try a bolt extractor ** Use caution **.

Extracting bolts with broken heads / stripped heads is an art - I prefer to use a bolt extractor over a reverse drill - but that's my personal preference.
 
fastar1 said:
Then reverse drill bit and extractor set from CT should get it out. If locktited, heat it up woth a torch first.
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I would say be careful while doing that. Might heat & warp the seals in the fork. Not sure if the forks are pressurised. But u don't want to hit it that it might explode in your face.

Another idea is to use a "right" drill & drill it from the back. I am sure u should have enough space from the back.
If not you're outta luck & might have to use a grinder to get the old clipons out.

If you're close to scarboro, send me a PM, I might come take a look. Again.....pics pls
 
Loosen the top and bottom triple clamp pinch bolts. That will allow you to rotate the fork and clipon so you can get at it with a drill from the side. Drill the head off and then use a very small extractor to get the rest of the bolt out. Personally I would drill the head off just to remove it then use a mill to get the bolt out.
 
Thanks for the tips. Looks like I have a few things to try tonight/tomorrow.

Before I do any cutting or drilling, I'm going to try to hammer in a larger bit, if that doesn't work I could dremel into the bolt head and use a flathead to turn it out.

If not, I'll drill that sucker off any way I can.
 
Mr.Azim said:
I got it out. Got a basic $50 dremel from crappy tire, cut the head and screwed it out. Might keep the tool, pretty handy and im bad with stripping bolt heads :P
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buy some good tools. spend 5 dollars now and save 10 later.
 
fastar1 said:
If the clamp has paired bolts on each side then tighten the one next to the one with the rounded (not stripped) bolt, to remove some tension on it.
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+10000... this is how you do it.

OP : Don't curse the product, there's nothing wrong with it.

Don't take out 1 bolt entirely and then move to the next: undo them 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time. As soon as you release the pressure from one bolt, more pressure is put on the other. Some clips have 3 bolts in a row, some just two... but back them off together, making sure no single one of them is fully released, until they all are almost fully released. Tighten and loosen them in stages, or you'll always have this problem.
 
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Sorry, I should clarify: the bolts are a piece of ****.... not the actual product. Even with the "right size" they can easily be chewed and stripped. It's some really soft aluminum type they use. Not sure, really. But it isn't like the older bolts they used to use.
 
Mr.Azim said:
Sorry, I should clarify: the bolts are a piece of ****.... not the actual product. Even with the "right size" they can easily be chewed and stripped. It's some really soft aluminum type they use. Not sure, really. But it isn't like the older bolts they used to use.
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They dont use aluminum bolts, I believe what you have is zinc plated steel bolts
1159138_300.jpg
 
JohnnyP636 said:
They dont use aluminum bolts, I believe what you have is zinc plated steel bolts
1159138_300.jpg
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Thanks for the correction. That's the one........ they shred like paper at the slightest over-torque. But hey, I admit I'm to blame too :P
 
Most aftermarket crap has junk bolts. I try to re-use OEM bolts as much as possible. My rearsets are held on with OEM bolts...same with aftermarket brakelines .....most come with soft hollow aluminum banjo bolts...no thanks.
 
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