Steps to transfer ownership??

S

stangn99

Well-known member
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Hey guy,
I bought a used car in as-is condition from a Mazda Dealer (its a beater trade-in).
The dealer sold it to me as-is. They are going to transfer the ownership as "unfit", and I'm supposed to pick it up along with the car tomorrow. What are my steps?

Do I simply...
1. Call my insurance and change the car from my old (sold) car to the new car
2. Take "unfit" ownership along with my old plates to MTO
3. Get a temporary sticker
4. drive to shop and get safety and e-test
5. go back to MTO for legit sticker

Is this correct? I've gone through 6 cars, and this process gets me every time.


Thanks
 
stangn99 said:
Hey guy,
I bought a used car in as-is condition from a Mazda Dealer (its a beater trade-in).
The dealer sold it to me as-is. They are going to transfer the ownership as "unfit", and I'm supposed to pick it up along with the car tomorrow. What are my steps?

Do I simply...
1. Call my insurance and change the car from my old (sold) car to the new car
2. Take "unfit" ownership along with my old plates to MTO
3. Get a temporary sticker
4. drive to shop and get safety and e-test
5. go back to MTO for legit sticker

Is this correct? I've gone through 6 cars, and this process gets me every time.


Thanks
Click to expand...

Something like that. You could always ask them the procedure when you are there with the plates. They must do there part of this all the time.
 
stangn99 said:
Hey guy,
I bought a used car in as-is condition from a Mazda Dealer (its a beater trade-in).
The dealer sold it to me as-is. They are going to transfer the ownership as "unfit", and I'm supposed to pick it up along with the car tomorrow. What are my steps?

Do I simply...
1. Call my insurance and change the car from my old (sold) car to the new car
2. Take "unfit" ownership along with my old plates to MTO
3. Get a temporary sticker
4. drive to shop and get safety and e-test
5. go back to MTO for legit sticker

Is this correct? I've gone through 6 cars, and this process gets me every time.


Thanks
Click to expand...

If you're buying it as is, 9/10 times the dealer can get you a temporary trip permit ($35) as long as it says 'fit' on the ownership before they transfer it over. In order to get the temporary plates you would have to have insurance, so yes add the car to the policy. With the temp. plates you have 10 days to get the safety/e.test done, once you have both in hand you go back to the MTO and purchase a one/two year sticker and you're good to go.

PS: The E. test is valid for 1 year, you can check when it was last tested here: http://www.ene.gov.on.ca/environment/mobile/en/page?id=STDPROD_075677
If it's valid, you don't have to do the e. test but you'd have to get the certification done in order to complete the process.

Good Luck.
 
If the car is sold as Unfit the Mazda dealer is going to say that the car has to be towed from their lot to a mechanic to be safetied.
Unless of course you have it safetied at their shop. Either way you are fish in a barrel. Anyone who gets a hold of your new car could rip you a new one with what it will cost to safety.
Never buy from a dealer unless the car is ready to go (safety and clean air)
Never buy any vehicle that has been labeled Unfit.
 
87m6chris said:
If the car is sold as Unfit the Mazda dealer is going to say that the car has to be towed from their lot to a mechanic to be safetied.
Unless of course you have it safetied at their shop. Either way you are fish in a barrel. Anyone who gets a hold of your new car could rip you a new one with what it will cost to safety.
Never buy from a dealer unless the car is ready to go (safety and clean air)
Never buy any vehicle that has been labeled Unfit.
Click to expand...

+1

I would personally rather get a blood transfusion from a foamy crack hobo than buy an unsafetied car from a dealership. I guess if you have a good eye for beaters and you pay less than a grand for them, it limits the possible damage, but even then that's potentially a grand you'll never see again, save for the scrap value of the car.
 
Or just have the vehicle inspected before you finalize the deal and see what work it needs for certification?...
Just because a car is being sold as is, it doesn't mean it will require a lot of repairs. It just means that the dealer is not taking responsibility for the certification. Seeing as how it's a beater, it makes sense. No dealer would certify a 1000$ car simply because there is no profit for them. However, if you're spending 1000$ you should expect repairs here or there + no used car is ever perfect.
 
Just came back from MTO...they need to me to tow it to the shop for a safety before they can give me temp plates (which I don't really need now anyway).

I already added the car to the policy and removed the old one.
As for not buying certified from the dealer..yea..I guess I have a decent eye for cars under a $1000.


My previous car was a 1998 Sunfire Coupe. I bought the car for $260 from Markham Subaru. It needed NOTHING. I did an oil change and got safety and e-test no problem. Drove it for almost 2 years with no repairs needed until last week. The waterpump crapped out, so I decided to get rid of it instead of spending $200 on a waterpump job (since I bought the car for $260). So... $260 for almost 2 years (28,000km) of driving isn't bad.

I sold it to CASH FOR CARS for $200. So really.. I paid only $60 for a car I drove for 2 years! :cool:

The Mazda I just got is '97 LX protege - power everything - 110,000km. I inspected it for 20 minutes and test drove it for another 15 min. It's super clean and all original. I bought it for $900+ tax. I have no worries about it not passing safety or e-test. I already removed the wheel and pads and rotors are less than a year old. Wheel bearings are great. No rust underneath and all lights, mirrors (power), electronics, e-brake, etc. etc. are perfect.

I just don't want to pay for a tow to the shop. There is a crappy tire across the street...maybe I can roll it to get safety there :D
 
That's pretty cool actually. A lot of Sunfires I see of that age have enough rust for it to be a safety issue. The Protege sounds like a good find, I would expect it to be driven into the ground. Only 110,000km and the dealer couldn't be arsed to safety it? Their loss I guess.
 
TwistedKestrel said:
That's pretty cool actually. A lot of Sunfires I see of that age have enough rust for it to be a safety issue. The Protege sounds like a good find, I would expect it to be driven into the ground. Only 110,000km and the dealer couldn't be arsed to safety it? Their loss I guess.
Click to expand...

After this incident (http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/showthread.php?76423-Who-s-higher-up-after-Customer-Service&) I refused to buy new. I'm enjoying the cheaper insurance, cheap maintenance, cheap purchase price, and not having to worry about parking 10 cars away from other cars in a parking lot. Sub $1000 car ftw.


 
stangn99 said:


After this incident (http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/showthread.php?76423-Who-s-higher-up-after-Customer-Service&) I refused to buy new. I'm enjoying the cheaper insurance, cheap maintenance, cheap purchase price, and not having to worry about parking 10 cars away from other cars in a parking lot. Sub $1000 car ftw.


Click to expand...

I read through the whole thread ... wow. What a crappy experience! I wonder if the whole thing would have gone any differently with post-bailout GM? (Assuming it was a brand they still sold)
 
One would hope things have changed since.
I bought the Mazda from Markham Mazda. They treated me just like any other customer wanting to buy a new Mazda...except I was buying a $900 trade in.

Anyway... I got the safety and e-test done. It passed e-test with no issues at all, but did need new rear pads. Didn't need anything else at all. The mechanic said the car is absolutely solid. I looked underneath, and it looks very clean (no rust underneath).

Safety, e-test, and rear brake pads (front was new) all came to $240 total.

I took the car on the highway for a good 30 minute drive and couldn't find anything off EXCEPT:

If I let go of the wheel, it (ever so slightly) pulls left after 10-15 seconds of hands off the wheel. I took it up to 130km/hr and there is absolutely no shaking or anything weird. It's actually really, really smooth.

Could it just need an alignment? It's really, really minor... but enough to annoy me a bit. I figure an out of balance wheel would make the steering wheel shake...but the ride is super smooth. I checked the air and all tires are the same (38psi) and all 4 tires look almost new. They are also all the same brand (bridgstones)...so I'm ruling out tire/balance issue.

Alignment? Any recommendations on good alignment shops (the ones who use the laser machines?).
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