Snapped a sparkplug in the head | GTAMotorcycle.com

Snapped a sparkplug in the head

mma01

mma01

Well-known member
I was changing the plug on my zx6rr track bike this morning and the first few threads and ground electrode of the plug snapped off in the head. Im going to pull the motor and was wondering:

1) helicoil vs timesert vs _____?
2) Is there any suggested maintenance or performance work I can do while everything is opened up anyways? I figure if im paying $$ I might as well get something done to make it go faster hehe.
3) Any recommendations for a shop to do the work?

Thanks.
 
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1. If the threads of the head arn't damaged then there's no need to use helicoil, timesert etc.
2. There's tonnes of 'performance' mods you can do to a cylinder head but it all costs MORE money and then tuning time/money on top. Your better off IMO just doing some maintenance work. Check the valve guides for wear, replace all the valve seals and if you have some extra money to throw at the bike, have the valves seats cut for a better seal with the face.
3. Gord Bush
 
If you're going to pull the engine out of the bike yourself, you are most of the way to having the cylinder head off yourself. Just make sure you understand how the crank and cam timing marks work before taking the tensioner and camshafts out.
 
That bike has so much room around the head....I don't see why you are just going to drop that motor and pull the head out. You'd need a new headgasket then.

Instead of just pulling the head off - have you tried a spark plug extrator?? If you let the spark plug sit in penetration oil for a day - it might seep into the threads and would be easy to extract.

I haven't had to pull a broken plug out of that bike - but if a extractor will fit i'd go that route before puling the head out.
 
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frekeyguy said:
That bike has so much room around the head....I don't see why you are just going to drop that motor and pull the head out. You'd need a new headgasket then.

Instead of just putting the head off - have you tried a spark plug extrator?? If you let the spark plug sit in penetration oil for a day - it might seep into the threads and would be easy to extract.
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I doused the spark plug with penetrating fluid and left it overnight before attempting to remove the plug and it still snapped :( I'm going to give the extractor a shot before pulling the head and/or motor.
 
mma01 said:
I doused the spark plug with penetrating fluid and left it overnight before attempting to remove the plug and it still snapped :( I'm going to give the extractor a shot before pulling the head and/or motor.
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best of luck. Be firm with the extractor and careful....don't break the extractor or it will become a bigger job.


If the head has to come out - take it to Johnnyp636, he should be able to remove the head with the motor or just drop the motor. I don't think you will find anyone that will do it right or as quick as him.

But if the head has to come out - you will need a head gasket - as you might as well have him do your valves / plugs / manual cam chain tensioner while everything is apart.
 
I ended up taking the bike to ryan gill. The broken piece of the sparkplug didnt want to come out so Im going to have to pull the motor. Since it's opened up anyways Im going to get it refreshed with a valve job and possibly new rings depending on the condition. Oh well, I guess it needed the maintenance any ways...
 
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mma01 said:
I doused the spark plug with penetrating fluid and left it overnight before attempting to remove the plug and it still snapped :( I'm going to give the extractor a shot before pulling the head and/or motor.
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In the future, might want to consider taking the plug out when the engine is hot.

Also follow the manual, if it calls for a plug change at 10k km, at least move the spark plug around so it doesn't seize.
 
RockerGuy said:
In the future, might want to consider taking the plug out when the engine is hot.

Also follow the manual, if it calls for a plug change at 10k km, at least move the spark plug around so it doesn't seize.
Click to expand...

Ryan said that the use of MR9 might have contributed to the plugs seizing because it's apparently corrosive. Yup, i usually check the plugs on periodic basis, but ive only owned this bike for one season.
 
RockerGuy said:
In the future, might want to consider taking the plug out when the engine is hot.

Also follow the manual, if it calls for a plug change at 10k km, at least move the spark plug around so it doesn't seize.
Click to expand...

If the threads were cross threaded or mangled - that would not help. Its all about how they were installed...

mma01 said:
Ryan said that the use of MR9 might have contributed to the plugs seizing because it's apparently corrosive. Yup, i usually check the plugs on periodic basis, but ive only owned this bike for one season.
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I'm not sure about MR9' and effects of on threads....

I've always using a smidge of anti-seize on plugs that I install - and even after 3-4 yrs when I swap those plugs out - they come right out. No issues. Firm beliver of using anti-seize
 
frekeyguy said:
I've always using a smidge of anti-seize on plugs that I install - and even after 3-4 yrs when I swap those plugs out - they come right out. No issues. Firm beliver of using anti-seize
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Just a smidge? I lather mine up with Permatex Copper Anti-Seize. Guess I've probably been over doing it.
 
chiefswallow said:
Just a smidge? I lather mine up with Permatex Copper Anti-Seize. Guess I've probably been over doing it.
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copper + aluminum = very corrosive combination.
In the marine industry most antifouling paints are copper based, unless you own an aluminum boat, the copper paint will actually eat an aluminum outboard lower unit.
 
I've only been using the aluminum based anti seize.

I put enough to cover the thread with a light coating. No point over doing it....you don't want gobs of it and stuff ending up in your cylinders.
 
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