|
|
|
Slipper Clutches and Bump Starts
- Thread starter Merkid
- Start date
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Probably not - Vtwins will likely just lock up the rear wheel when you dump the clutch. If it's fuel injected, then it's even more doubtful as the fuel pump needs power.
Easiest solution: Jumper cables. Red to red first, then black on DUC then Black on car. Crank!
Depends on if you can get to the battery. I tried to bump my 1198 once no go. Then realized all the body work had to come off to boost it battery was in the middle behind the rad. Called a tow truck towed it home then got a new battery.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Also, if the bike has an RF sensor linked to the key for electronic ignition defeat, that also needs a minimum charge to allow the bike to start.
I have one of those Anti-Gravity jump start/power banks, and those work like a charm. Easy to use if there's a pigtail connected to the battery already, but it also comes with alligator clips.
Relax
Well-known member
I don't know how Ducati went so backwards in terms of accessibility after the 916. Four quarter turn fasteners, and my side panel can be pulled away enough to get jumper cables in there. Two more and the entire panel comes right off.
I totally agree!
It happened between the 999 and 1098. I loved the Dzus fasteners on the Trip9, and then the 1098 had a bajillion fiddly Allen-head fairing fasteners.
WTF? Just... No.
Relax
Well-known member
Also, if the bike has an RF sensor linked to the key for electronic ignition defeat, that also needs a minimum charge to allow the bike to start.
I have one of those Anti-Gravity jump start/power banks, and those work like a charm. Easy to use if there's a pigtail connected to the battery already, but it also comes with alligator clips.
I have something similar from Costco. Small enough to fit in your jacket's rabbit pouch, powerful enough to start a car. But I mostly use it to boost my undersized lithium batteries on cold fall mornings for easier starts.
BTW, to answer the OP's question: you can bump start a bike with a slipper clutch. Race bikes with slipper clutches and without starter motors (ie. MotoGP bikes) can only be bump started. Once at race start and again by track marshalls after a crash.
^-- MotoGP bike being started with an external starter motor.
^-- MotoGP bike being started with an external starter motor.
Relax
Well-known member
BTW, to answer the OP's question: you can bump start a bike with a slipper clutch. Race bikes with slipper clutches and without starter motors (ie. MotoGP bikes) can only be bump started. Once at race start and again by track marshalls after a crash.
^-- MotoGP bike being started with an external starter motor.
That starter is turning the crank directly, as opposed to turning it through the rear wheel, transmission, and clutch. A slipper clutch is supposed to be one-way to let the motor spin the transmission, but not the other way around. Same idea as the starter sprag which allows the starter to turn the crank, but doesn't allow the crank to keep the starter motor spinning once running. Don't ask me to explain the rear wheel bump starters, though. Maybe they're not using slippers, or the slippers are tuned for less intervention.
That starter is turning the crank directly, as opposed to turning it through the rear wheel, transmission, and clutch. A slipper clutch is supposed to be one-way to let the motor spin the transmission, but not the other way around. Same idea as the starter sprag which allows the starter to turn the crank, but doesn't allow the crank to keep the starter motor spinning once running. Don't ask me to explain the rear wheel bump starters, though. Maybe they're not using slippers, or the slippers are tuned for less intervention.
The marshalls bump start race bikes all the time when they're picked up off the gravel. No crank start, just old-fashioned rear wheel bump starts.
Except for this guy:
Could you wire in a SAE lead and tuck it in somewhere more sensible? You'd just need to carry around one of these and you'd be able to help yourself, or another rider, in theory...
Robbo
Well-known member
I have one of those Anti-Gravity jump start/power banks, and those work like a charm. Easy to use if there's a pigtail connected to the battery already, but it also comes with alligator clips.
I have the same one pictured. It has come in handy on a few occasions getting a car/van started. Stays in the top case all riding season.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's really dodgy if you hook that up between a good battery and a dead battery. Even more so if you attempt to start the dead bike. That wire is designed for a couple amps not tens of amps. If you want to use such a small wire even just to get enough power over to fire up the computers, you would want a load limiting resistor to keep the current down.
An anderson plug is harder to hide but give you a good connection to the outside world. Obviously you need to think about weather protection and carry the other half with alligator clips on it as other than a towtruck you arent going to find an anderson connection on another vehicle.
Also, if the bike has an RF sensor linked to the key for electronic ignition defeat, that also needs a minimum charge to allow the bike to start.
I have one of those Anti-Gravity jump start/power banks, and those work like a charm. Easy to use if there's a pigtail connected to the battery already, but it also comes with alligator clips.
These things are awesome. Helped a guy jump start his pick up truck with one while I was riding in Algonquin park. He couldn’t believe such a small battery pack would work. Mine’s an old Cobra branded thing and I use it as a power bank to charge my phone too. It’s always with me on longer day trips.
Just ordered based on comments!
I like it, you're absolutely right about the amperage limitation. I always assumed the 10 gauge leads would be plenty thick for the 4' run of cable, and just never thought too hard about it.
So far I've been lucky I guess, I'll look to upgrade at some point this season.
|
|
|
|
|