Rustproofing your car/truck | GTAMotorcycle.com

Rustproofing your car/truck

SVeezy

Well-known member
Looking for opinions and thoughts on if it’s worthwhile. I’ve heard different points of view over the years. I wouldn’t waste my money doing it on a leased vehicle but what about a vehicle you intend to keep?


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Mixed reviews here...I own a 2013 Hyundai Elantra GT since new and didn't rust proof it at all...underbody is in great condition, no rust anywhere to be seen (and I drive it year round and not a real clean freak when it comes to getting the salt off of it)...hubby has a 2017 Dodge Ram and he's had it done every year so far...I've owned 6 cars including the Elantra, most of them for usually 3-5 years only, and I've never had any of them done...this is hubby's first new vehicle and he was talked into getting it done by his brother and brother in law...
 
I guess for the sake of discussion I can add my dad has a 2006 pickup with plenty of kms travelled and it’s not showing any rust in the usual locations. He gets it sprayed either yearly or every other year, can’t remember which. $150/yr seems like cheap insurance if it actually works.


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I’m very interested in hearing the points brought up, hopefully with some long term proof.. just bought a brand new ZR2 that I plan to keep for the long haul.

The things that I have heard is
1) once you do it you have to do it every year or you accelerate the rust.
2) having it done collects dust, which holds moisture and starts the rust from the inside.
3) everywhere they punch a hole is bare metal, where rust starts.
4) if done from new the body will last forever (15-20, maybe 25 years not a spec of rust)

There might be some truth to some of these, but also some exaggeration..
Just looking real world experiences/proof of any of it.


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I have a 2008 Corolla, it's been oil sprayed every year and is in excellent shape. Only time I regretted getting it oil sprayed was when I replaced a quarter panel.

I've been a Auto body technician for over 10 years I have seen cars oiled and still rusty.

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First time I did one of my cars last year. Quick and easy and about $150. Owner of the place said that every other year is fine, as yearly is overkill. Which was nice of him considering it's his business.
Took about 3-4 months to get the fluid they used to come out of the openings in the car, and it smelled funky the first week or so. We will do it again next year...for $150 it's cheap insurance on a car we plan to keep for the long haul.
 
If you do it, go with Crown Rust Proofing. Don't go with Rust Chek, their dealers are crooked in my experience.
 
Just switched over from using Krown for years to Fluid Film this year on the truck and SUV.

Everyone has different opinions on each one, but reading about what people say about FF seems to be a better choice.
 
Do it. I have a 07 Dodge Ram that’s oranger than Trump. My same year Jeep was done regularly and it’s like new.

$100 a year at Krown, bargain.
 
Make sure you know what is going on and how it behaves. The coatings that turn hard bubble off and trap water and kill the vehicle much faster than if you left them alone. The soft coatings (like oil) protect but slowly wash off (and make working on the car miserable as they trap grit on everything). Don't be surprised if a mechanic turns up the bill a bit for dealing with that crap.

If I was doing it, I would do an oil coating. I haven't had a car rust out ever so I don't do it. Honestly, if I am selling a 10 year old car with 300K+, the coating doesn't affect what I get for it and probably does little to affect it's useful life. If I bought a known rustbucket (mazda, most trucks, etc) I might spray it.
 
Late model vehicles mostly have good factory rust protection, including galvanised steel in critical areas. On those, nothing further is needed, and using oil or other products can interfere with the factory rust protection. I've done nothing in the last few vehicles that I've owned.
 
I have never done it. My 2008 ranger I bought new had rust starting inside the doors 3 years ago. The krown oily stuff would have helped that. I did just find a rust hole in the floor. It’s from the self tapping screws used to hold the a piece of carpet trim down. Nothing would have stopped it other than a serious floor mates possibly. Salty crap from my boots and the angle of the driveway had it puddle around the screw under the vinyl carpet. Heathers 2018 Golf gets oily one year thicker next. Can’t get the 1.8 turbo models anymore and she loves it.
 
people still waste money on this?
It’s worth it if you keep a car for more than 7 years. Rust damage is expensive to repair, not just body — tranny and brake lines, suspension components and wiring all benefit from annual rust protection.
 
Our 10 year old Chevy Uplander didn't get anything and was only starting to show red after a decade. At that time it needed more work than could be justified. Struts and transmission work.

I've been in a buddy's shop when vehicles came in for a safeties and on certain makes he goes straight for specific frame spots that are known for rust out. If the frame or sub frame is shot he doesn't waste time on pulling wheels and measuring rotors. I don't know if rust proofing helps those areas.
 
How long do you really intend to keep the vehicle? Most will not show any signs of rust for at least five or six years so unless you want to keep it longer it is not worth while (unless your vehicle is known for problems), maybe even 10 years before signs. The only decent solutions are the "checmical" spray films (not just oil) that get re-applied. Stay away from hard or rubberized undercoats and really do not bother with electronic ones they are literally a total snake oil scam for vehicles.

I can speak for Krown, it does work if you plan on keeping it for a long time, other than getting filthy from it even working on older vehicles is easier as things are not all seized. Krown can attack some rubber seals so they need to be careful here when it is applied.

It will also come down to how well it is applied. This will depend to who does it not just what brand so research the local guy not just the brand. If the local guy gets it in the wrong places, not in the right places or does not otherwise do it right it is worthless.
 
This doesn't really directly answer your question... but here is an attempt at a controlled comparison test of different rustproofing agents. Some do worse than I expected, and some do better.

 
Also something to keep in mind (and it comes up in the above video) is that Krown does offer a limited warranty on their rustproofing, if you get it regularly applied to a vehicle since new.

 
Trying out corrosion free on the X5. Not a fan of Krown drilling.

I have been told NOT to rustproof an X5. I have a 2005 and only one little spot above a rear wheel so far.
 

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