Rev match sequence? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Rev match sequence?

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QVBD

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Hi all,

I'm getting mixed results searching this technique:

1. throttle off, clutch in, shift down, blip throttle
2. throttle off, clutch in, blip throttle, shift down
3. throttle off, clutch in, then blip throttle and shift down at the same time

I've tried all three methods and the results seem the same (maybe because my bike has a slipper clutch). What's the correct way to rev match?
 
*When* you shift down is the least important part.

The most important part of getting a good rev-matched downshift, that you're not documenting above, is: Letting the clutch out.

When you blip the throttle, you have to time letting the clutch out so that the blipped revs match the new gear that you're in.

If the revs are too high, your bike will surge.
If the revs are too low, your bike will jerk backwards.

Focus on the blip/letting the clutch out part.
 
Sorry, I forgot to include clutch out. As with the three sequences above, with slow clutch out, I get the same results. So, does it matter (1, 2 or 3) as long as I clutch out when the revs matches the gear speed?
 
It doesn't matter when you shift/blip. The critical piece is letting the clutch out when the revs match the new gear.

Also, don't let the clutch out slowly. The smoothness comes from rev-matching. If you dump the clutch and the revs perfectly match, your bike won't feel unsettled at all.

In fact, letting the clutch out quickly will be a good test if you're getting the revs matched or not.

Your slipper clutch is going to mask a lot of your mistakes. If you can get some seat time on a bike without a slipper, then you'll be able to see if you're rev-matching properly or not.
 
Rev matching is a performance riding skill. Not needed going up in gears, not needed for braking, mostly used when racing to keep the bike in the powerband while loosing speed.

Tell us why you want to revmatch for a more precise explanation of technique.
 
I'd be recommending you don't get so hung up on 'blipping' the throttle at all.
It's not a requirement, blipping is not good throttle control it's more like a bad habit.
 
With enough practice you won't even think about it; it will come naturally. Clutch, shifter and throttle coordination will happen automatically and simultaneously.

If you're just starting out, try not to think too much about it when street riding. Find quiet places (like empty parking lots) to try it out. There's too many other things going on to be distracted by overthinking any one thing.
 
Clutch and throttle control is simultaneous and constant, I like that part,
shifting gear ranges is something we don't want to be doing all the time.

Blipping an engine isn't finding the right throttle position to match the gear,
that is just sending your engine revs crazy high fast and then slowing them quickly :/ none of which is going to really help your forward motion or clutch control.
 
Everything Lightcycle said.
 
@ Mad Mike, for preservation. Even though it has a slipper clutch, I read that it's better for wear and tear than just downshifting.
 
I think you're splitting hairs when it comes to the wear and tear part. What kind of bike do you have btw?

The blipping is all about keeping your ride smooth, when transitioning into a lower gear...

Really, you could pull in the clutch, and take your sweet time getting back into gear...the blip happens, and as you come off the throttle, that's when you place your clutch back into your friction zone quickly.

If you're letting your clutch out slowly, you're forcing the bike to smoothly match the engine speed and engine revs on its own.

Pick one or the other.
 
A slipper-clutch reduces your motors ability and tendency to engine brake, that is all.

... did you ever engine brake so hard your rear wheel starts jumping up and down out of control? <- that is what a slipper-clutch attempts to prevent.
 
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@OP do you drive a MT car?

I'm not a bike pro but have owned manual cars for a while now. It's the same thing ...

Figure out what RPM the bike likes to go at 60 km/h, 100 km/h, 120 km/h then just downshift one gear... See where the rpm is and memorize it. Next time you downshift, you want to blip the throttle and let the clutch out so he bike "bites" within this range. As you get better add braking into the mix to slow down way faster.

example

100 km/h - gear 6 - hovers around 6000 rpm
100 km/h - gear 5 - hovers around 7000 rpm
100 km/h - gear 4 - hovers around 8000 rpm

So when you downshift, throttle off, blip the throttle a little past 7500 or even 8000, shift down and let the clutch out.. If you do it perfectly, the rpm will be ~7000 when the clutch is released...

For now, it is better to rev MORE than LESS.
 
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QVBD said:
I have a Vitpilen 401 and have driven MT cars before. Guess I should work on clutch control.
Click to expand...

Okay great!

Never driven that. My sv650 feels like I'm driving a vehicle with a single mass flywheel, revs very freely and has difficult time maintaining (speed?) without throttle input. So I had to "adjust" accordingly (especially shifting quickly)
 
I didn't realize how much the slipper clutch in my Ninja helped smooth out downshifts until I got a bike without one, it forced me to learn to be much smoother.

When I did my M1X, they taught us that you should rev match for two reasons, to have engine braking help slow you down and more importantly to ensure you are in the right gear in case you need to accelerate suddenly.

To answer the OPs question when I revmatch downshift I pull in the clutch, blip and shift at the same time, then release the clutch all in one smooth continuous sequence. Takes practice to get it right but once you figure it out it becomes second nature, you will do it without thinking about it.
 
There goes that blip again, lol you know how many times I blip the motor to change gears on my F350 diesel with its 6 speed manual transmission? Never.

Most manual transmissions are synchro-mesh type, if you rev match correctly, you don't even need to engage a clutch all you need is good throttle control. Don't try that until you have good throttle control.

If you Must blip your engine to shift gears, check to make sure your clutch is not dragging.
 
Trials said:
A slipper-clutch reduces your motors ability and tendency to engine brake, that is all.

... did you ever engine brake so hard your rear wheel starts jumping up and down out of control? QUOTE]



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Click to expand...
A slipper clutch is to prevent chatter from the rear tire when you over rev while downshifting.
Rev matching on downshifts is proper form. Everyone should learn how to do it.

When changing to a lower gear mid corner, smoothe is an absolute must. Rev match...
 
A slipper clutch also gives you a much lighter clutch pull as the ramping design forces the clutch together while the engine is sending power to the wheel. As a result the clutch springs can be lighter. More benefits than just preventing wheel lockup.

Also floating gears in a synchomesh transmission is a bad idea. Much cheaper to replace a clutch than a worn out synchro. I have driven with a lot of self-proclaimed “clutchless experts” and unless you are hitting the exact perfect RPM on each shift you are causing excessive wear to your transmission. Don’t let your synchros fool you into thinking you are Ayrton Senna – its hiding your sloppy floats.
 
Trials said:
There goes that blip again, lol you know how many times I blip the motor to change gears on my F350 diesel with its 6 speed manual transmission? Never.

Most manual transmissions are synchro-mesh type, if you rev match correctly, you don't even need to engage a clutch all you need is good throttle control. Don't try that until you have good throttle control.

If you Must blip your engine to shift gears, check to make sure your clutch is not dragging.
Click to expand...
How do you rev match on a downshift without blipping the throttle? My current car has a DSG transmission, it blips the throttle to rev match on downshifts, and some new cars with manual transmission do the same for you when downshifting.

Not so important on a four wheel vehicle, but on a bike downshifting without matching revs smoothly can unsettle it with heavy engine braking, especially mid corner or under heavy braking on a less than perfect surface.
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