Resources for Electrical Knowledge, Connectors, Tools etc. | GTAMotorcycle.com

Resources for Electrical Knowledge, Connectors, Tools etc.

M

MaksTO

Well-known member
I’m working on re terminating connections on new turn signals and tail light to an aftermarket loom that goes to the back. Basically I spent good money for a kit with spade and bullet connectors on Amazon that came with a crimp, and the tool has a tendency to chew up terminals and some of them straight up won’t crimp because they are dimensionally incorrect (the tabs that curl in are too long on the male connector for instance, but the female connector crimps fine). Before you ask, I made sure they were in the right dye size, and even tried other sizes when that failed. I’m positive my lack of knowledge is a contributing factor, but spending 4 hours to make 10 connections implies to me that there’s other factors at play too.

I’m feeling like, after quite a bit of research, that there aren’t really any good sources for all of this information. I’m sticking to bullets and spades right now because I have no idea where to start with multi pinned connectors like deutch, and from what I recall tools for those are often quite expensive. Trying to walk before I run.

My question is twofold I guess:

- Is there a single resource available that has good knowledge regarding choosing correct, high quality tools, and how to determine what makes a good quality connector/terminal? Honestly even a breakdown with images of different crimping tools for different connection types. I’ve found some info scattered around, but lack of clear documentation leaves a lot to be desired for an electrical newbie like myself. I have a book at home for 12v boat electrical, so I’m wondering if there’s something similar for bikes.

- Where do you all buy your connectors and tools? I’m kind of done with Amazon. Digikey seems to be excellent for selection, but frankly incredibly overwhelming because I don’t have the knowledge to know what’s compatible with what. For example I assume part number WM18263-ND is intended to fit with 23-0190390001-ND, but I’m going off of pictures and their recommended product listings as opposed to any real knowledge.

It’s interesting to me how with mechanical work, you can find manuals and books that list step by step how to do everything, making it quite easy to build skill. Though with electrical it’s borderline some kind of dark magic where if you know, you know.

I’m half tempted to get a college diploma in some electrical field now because I refuse to let this get the best of me 😂

Would appreciate any advice!
 
Start with Eastern Beaver: Eastern Beaver Crimping Guidelines
He sells the terminals and the tools, and has pictures of the end result of combining them, so you know what is possible.

I have a couple of decent crimp tools (not expensive) that work for me. I only use non-insulated terminals, and heat-shrink over top of them. I really don't like the results I've gotten with insulated terminals so I never use them.

edit: I get my uninsulated terminals from Sayal. One of my crimpers came from The Source with the original RadioShack branding (it's really old). The other crimper is a 'Mode' brand ratcheting crimper that cost about $20. It's extremely hard to tell if a crimper is going to be good or bad just by looking at it (except for the true crap).
 
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Ash said:
Start with Eastern Beaver: Eastern Beaver Crimping Guidelines
He sells the terminals and the tools, and has pictures of the end result of combining them, so you know what is possible.

I have a couple of decent crimp tools (not expensive) that work for me. I only use non-insulated terminals, and heat-shrink over top of them. I really don't like the results I've gotten with insulated terminals so I never use them.

edit: I get my uninsulated terminals from Sayal. One of my crimpers came from The Source with the original RadioShack branding (it's really old). The other crimper is a 'Mode' brand ratcheting crimper that cost about $20. It's extremely hard to tell if a crimper is going to be good or bad just by looking at it (except for the true crap).
Click to expand...
This is a great starting point. Thanks!

Will take a look at Sayal for terminals, thanks again!
 
I crimp all kind of connectors (from 22ga to 750mcm - so from telephone/ethernet wire to power cable as big as your wrist)...

A good crimp tool is key... Ratcheting is good, makes a better connection; and the combo strip/crimp tool from Crappy Tire/parts stores are, frankly, crap.

amazon.ca/Crimping-Tool-Insulated-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B07GFLWKTT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ratchet+crimper&qid=1693710681&sprefix=ratchet+cri%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Something like the above style (can't speak for that specific one) - will be good for automotive use - 22 to 10ga covers most of what you'd deal with, short of battery/starter cables.

Sayal or Princess Auto are good for connectors - Sayal will have more of a selection, but you pay more - Princess Auto is a great source for common ring and spade terminals.
 
I crimp then solder everything. If you solder, the crimp can be crude -- pliers.
 
I experiences some of the same issues on my recent projects with the bike. Adding aux lights and a Fuzeblock.
Some crimps came out great and some no so much.
With some connectors I realized the a solder would do a better job. Sometimes more "chunky" than I would like but it held.

Unless you work with the stuff on a daily basis and have the proper good quality tools it is hard to create a factory crimp.

Don't seat about it too much, but I know it is a great feeling when you do create a near perfect crimp. There are many factors that play into that.
 
Ash said:
Start with Eastern Beaver: Eastern Beaver Crimping Guidelines
He sells the terminals and the tools, and has pictures of the end result of combining them, so you know what is possible.

I have a couple of decent crimp tools (not expensive) that work for me. I only use non-insulated terminals, and heat-shrink over top of them. I really don't like the results I've gotten with insulated terminals so I never use them.

edit: I get my uninsulated terminals from Sayal. One of my crimpers came from The Source with the original RadioShack branding (it's really old). The other crimper is a 'Mode' brand ratcheting crimper that cost about $20. It's extremely hard to tell if a crimper is going to be good or bad just by looking at it (except for the true crap).
Click to expand...
That's a great find. I will make sure to read that through.
 
I've bought connectors from this place in the US. Closer and faster shipping than from Japan, but that was before Covid:

Motorcycle Connectors

We have Vintage and modern Sport-bike Motorcycle Wiring Harness electrical Connectors, These connectors are purchase directly from the manufacturer, And in many cases the OEM Supplier, The terminals and connectors are superior quality. Most are Manufactured in the, Japan, USA or Europe. Bullet...
www.cycleterminal.com www.cycleterminal.com
 
What ever you do always use one of those medical roachclips** to separate the connections (to pull on the connector not the wire) otherwise you'll likely be doing it again.

**turns out they're called hemostats
 
timtune said:
What ever you do always use one of those medical roachclips** to separate the connections (to pull on the connector not the wire) otherwise you'll likely be doing it again.

**turns out they're called hemostats
Click to expand...

:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: Now every time I watch a surgery I'll be imagining a nurse lifting the surgeon's mask while another passes the hemostat to his lips.
 
I’ve used amazon connectors and they are **** but can work. I’ve found myself redoing the connector a couple times to make sure it’s solid. I used to have a set of quality connectors but the brand escapes me now and that’s how I ended up trying the amazon ones.

Once crimped I always give it a few good tugs to make sure it’s good.

As mentioned you can use solder for extra insurance but I usually just heat shrink tube and electrical tape.

For most cases that should achieve what you need. YMMV

Oh, and yes the crimping tool makes a big difference.

Some things you actually do get what you pay for.


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On the crimp and/or solder front. Solder almost guarantees a good connection out of the gate but very often breaks over time at the transition from solder to bare wire as it focuses all strain as a single point. Strain relief at that joint goes a long way to improving durability.
 
... and if you use too much heat while soldering, you work harden the copper wire, making it very brittle. El cheapo wire bought at CTC or Princess Auto is the worst for this (YES there is a huge difference in quality of wire)
Soldering takes practice, and SOME knowledge of the subject
I was taught when making an electrical connection, you first get a solid mechanical connection, then use solder to seal the joint from oxygen and to keep the connection from moving. You don't just hold two wires together and melt on a gob of solder.
... and there is HUGE differences in types of solder. Keep the plumbing solder away from your motorcycle.
 
I use a Klein crimper from Home Depot. It's identical to the crimpers that the old electrician's have at my work. I've used it for insulated and non insulated connectors from work, HD, amazon with very little thought and can't think of too many times I've had to redo one. I've used the canadian tire crimpers with the built in strippers years ago and recall having to redo more.

www.homedepot.ca

Klein Tools Crimping and Cutting Tool for Connectors | The Home Depot Canada

The Klein Tools Crimping and Cutting Tool is designed to work with both insulated and non-insulated terminals and connectors. It features a tapered nose which is ideal for working in tight spaces. It also has a specially hardened wire cutter in the nose of the tool.
www.homedepot.ca www.homedepot.ca

If the wire is really small (smaller then 18awg) then strip twice as much as you need and fold it in half so that there is twice as much wire to bite into. If you can fit the wire in folded over, then it needs to be folded over or you need a smaller connector.

I had to do allot of connections for my electric conversion and only soldered the 2/0 AWG connectors because I used a hammer and chisel to do the crimps. A good crimp should be plenty strong and as mentioned, solder is for electrical connection, not mechanical strength.
 
I also use the fold over method with small gauge wires.
 
Thanks for all the tips everyone! Will check out other crimpers, and the folding over trick on small gauge wire (which is basically all of my lighting wire) might have saved me a lot of headache regarding terminals coming apart...
 
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