Replacing vs re-sleeving 750 guides...

Acadian1974

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So I'm rebuilding the top end on my 70 Commando and am hoping to avoid removing the guides altogether (although I stumbled across a great method of tapping a bolt into the chamber side of the guide and drifting her out from the other side). Anyway, another suggestion was to simply have the guides re-sleeved but was delivered with a note of caution.... any experiences with this process?
 
I ran an automotive machine shop for 10 years, we resleeved valve guides with bronze liners most of the time. The bronze liner holds up very well. They are cost effective too. Liners are inexpensive when compared to new guides, and less labour to install. As long as the installer knows what he is doing, and has the correct size tooling, there should be no problems.
 
OK... I'll bite.
Why don't you want to replace your guides?

Tooling today is better than it was in 1970, so if done correctly, new replaced guides will be better than new.
Valves and guides are readily available from Kibblewhite (get the over size valve if you get new valves), guides are $20.37 each.

... a Norton intake guide is pretty thin, less than a 100 thou. Good luck sleeving that.
 
you will have to cut the seats for the new guides. are you using seals on the exhaust guides as well?
 
You don't use seals on Norton exhaust valves.
 
I just tried that very process for the first time. $11 each installed, Competition Auto, 395 Red Maple L4C 6P3
Ive swapped out a lot of Triumph & BSA guides, and I like this method a lot more. Any clearance you want.
 

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