I will not buy a sawstop. They attempted to extort regulators to make the brake mandatory (and they held the patent). F those guys. Also, if it trips, it is hundreds of dollars (blade and brake assembly are garbage). Not a bad price if it saved a finger but very bad on the numerous accidental trips.SAWSTOP now makes a 10 inch as well, with its safety technology. BIG MONEY, but its hard to put a $ value on all 10 fingers.
FESTOOL also has one. Festool owns sawstop.
Yes there is the whole patent issue that they tried to force down everyone's throat. I was not going to get into that as we are not known to behave well with those types of threads on this forum. At least politically themed threads. This isn't political but you get my point.I will not buy a sawstop. They attempted to extort regulators to make the brake mandatory (and they held the patent). F those guys. Also, if it trips, it is hundreds of dollars (blade and brake assembly are garbage). Not a bad price if it saved a finger but very bad on the numerous accidental trips.
For occasional use, Festool is crazy (unless you're a dentist). I only a couple things but only when a reasonable alternative was not available from another brand.
@Wingboy . My saw spends most of the time waiting for use and you are welcome to borrow it. Alternatively, I can give you a deal on a delta cast-iron non-portable that my dad wants to get rid of. I'm not willing to sacrifice floor space so I stick with the portable for me.
The 15A saws do a much better job of cutting straight than the 8-12A saws of yesteryear. Always have a sharp blade, use the right blade for the job, feed material at the speed the blade can do the cutting.Following as I bought a used Mastercraft last year and quickly resold it as it didn't cut straight very easily. Seeing this thread and knowing I have some upcoming projects rekindles my want of one.
For furniture making you need a proper shop saw (unless your idea of furniture making is a picnic table).The saw in my shop is a 20” Vintage belt drive Delta with a 60” Beissmier rip fence setup . I replaced a Powermatic 12” that took more space . My saw has too much power said nobody ever. The Ryobi is dirt cheap if value is your consideration. Always going on sale a HD . If I was thinking portable or storage it would be a Dewalt or Bosch. I had a Ryobi when I was doing fence and deck stuff . It’s handy because you don’t need a 12g extension cord , it’s just a circular saw in a table. Facebook marketplace and KIJIJi are loaded with saws that don’t get used or Grandpa died . Just make sure the fence locks and grab the blade a wiggle it for side play , which means the bearings a shot , give it a hard pass no matter the price .
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Nice work. Been a while since I did any fine cabinetry, my precision tools are all gone so for me it’s rough carpentry and crafts.View attachment 69520
This is what I mostly do these days , I could do it with a l compact saw but I don’t want to .
@Wingboy , drive out to Millbank Hardware a bit north of you and take a look at 6 brands in one store , and excellent advice . I like the King job saw with a folding stand , but I’m a bit biased , I specd a lot of features that went into that saw .
One guarantee the blade they give you is complete crap ( they have to give you something) . Be ready to spend 70-100 bucks on a decent blade and buy a cross cut and rip blade and be prepared to spend the 8 minutes required to change it . Combo blades work when new as a compromise, but it’s not the same as dedicated blades . Which saw is a lot like which motorbike should I buy .
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Stay away from their Jobmaster line if you value your well being.CTC has a nice little 10” saw in this week’s flyer.$299
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