Ninja 250 Jerky Throttle Response | GTAMotorcycle.com

Ninja 250 Jerky Throttle Response

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Nick456

Well-known member
On my 2008 Ninja 250, the throttle control/response is extremely jerky/sensitive in the lower gears, specifically gears 1 and 2. 3rd gear is ok, not very noticeable and on 4/5 it doesn't exist.

Regardless of the engine being warmed up, this happens 80% of the time I take it out for a ride (I guess the 20% were it doesn't happen is because I either don't notice it or for some reason it just doesn't happen.)

I read somewhere, that this was referred to "Driveline Lash" and only happens on chain driven bikes. AND that it could be a number of factors playing a role to this problem.
1. Dirty carbs 2. Chain tension 3. Rear sprocket carrier is not rigidly coupled to the rear wheel (Ninja 250 wiki, "How to shim the cush drive")....

Were do I begin ?

I just want to hear (read) some feedback from other ninja 250 (08+) owners that had the same problem and were able to remedy it .

*Tried doing a search on GTAMotorcycles but couldn't find anything referring to this problem*
 
See how much slack you have in your throttle cables, it can make a smooth roll on almost impossible.
 
Mine is also a bit jerky in 1st, 2nd... Makes me a bit nervous when giving gas while leaned over coming out of a turn... Don't have any answers for you though unfortunately.
 
it jerks when your wrist isn't moving?! or its jerky when your accelerating and letting go of the throttle. Because my bike is jerky as well . . . when i'm not smooth on the throttle which i think just applies to all bikes lmao
 
The bike jerks whenever you apply or decrease throttle, more so in first and second, slightly on 3rd and not at all in 4th and 5th.
I know what people mean by referring to "not being smooth on the throttle" and that this is a common newb mistake.

The slightest , and I do mean slightest , hairline adjustment in first or second gear jerks the bike.
 
Often jerky throttle response is caused by a too lean condition on the idle/pilot/needle circuit. I know that Ninja 250's are already borderline when new w.r.t. mixture in this regard. If you're so inclined, you could richen up those circuits to give better part-throttle response. If not, you could work on your throttle hand but I know what you're talking about and there's no need for it with some minor jetting work.
 
Thanks invictus43 .
I'll just work on keeping my throttle hand as steady as possible I guess. I don't have the "know how" , patience or money right now to do a jetting.
 
I didn't get the whole thing.... Does it happen from switching acceleration to decel and vice versa or switching from accel to less accel ?
 
whetaus-tr said:
I didn't get the whole thing.... Does it happen from switching acceleration to decel and vice versa or switching from accel to less accel ?
Click to expand...

It's the on-off-on throttle change..people don't know any better so they accept the light-switch throttle because that's how the bike was new. It's difficult to get a smooth transition from no throttle to opening the throttle because there is an abrupt change in power. If you richen the idle/pilot/needle circuit it smooths this out. New bikes are made this way for emissions and gas mileage but it's such a terrible way to jet it. 30 mins of work and you have silky smooth throttle response that will make you feel a lot more confident when getting on the gas in a corner.
 
Nick456 said:
Thanks invictus43 .
I'll just work on keeping my throttle hand as steady as possible I guess. I don't have the "know how" , patience or money right now to do a jetting.
Click to expand...

i jetted 2 carbs. its not hard. ome time i didnt even take the carb completely out and disconnect throttle or other cables

i pulled it out of the intake boots then i tilted it and opened her up.

if you donthis use a towel so you dont lose any o rings.

from there you unscrew 2 jets and screw new ones on.

the bike does run much better after.

if you ever do it and need a hand let me know
 
invictus43 said:
It's the on-off-on throttle change..people don't know any better so they accept the light-switch throttle because that's how the bike was new. It's difficult to get a smooth transition from no throttle to opening the throttle because there is an abrupt change in power. If you richen the idle/pilot/needle circuit it smooths this out. New bikes are made this way for emissions and gas mileage but it's such a terrible way to jet it. 30 mins of work and you have silky smooth throttle response that will make you feel a lot more confident when getting on the gas in a corner.
Click to expand...

That makes me want to do the jetting... Can you point me towards a good how to for somewhat of a newb (at bikes - but good mechanically, electronically and with following directions)
 
My bike is at 41k kms and never once opened up the carbs or used cleaners etc. And I know they are not in best condition because bike doesn't start anymore without the help of the choke. Unless you guys are doing this on-off thing at 13,000rpm, I really doubt it's engine related.

Check your chain slack.
 
tsdexter said:
That makes me want to do the jetting... Can you point me towards a good how to for somewhat of a newb (at bikes - but good mechanically, electronically and with following directions)
Click to expand...

dude i am in the east end.. get the jets you want and i can show you how...
picking the correct jets is important. if everything is stock... i would suggest just going one size higher on the odke jet and maybe a washer to the needle.

anyone want to chime in? not sure whats recommended for ninja's
 
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