new windows needed (house windows, not computer related) | GTAMotorcycle.com

new windows needed (house windows, not computer related)

M

markm

Active member
Looking at purchasing a home, older house, built in the 70s, had inspection today, went pretty good.

Question about replacing all windows, how much are we talking about? Yes, old windows need to be removed and new windows installed, vinyl or any other form of plastic should be fine. About 8 windows and 2 sliding doors.

How much is a good price? Anyone have any experience here? or know good contractor?
 
Where's the house located?
 
I work in the glass industry. Can offer you advice on types and quality. Maybe give you a price range. I HAVE done houses I just find it to be a PITA so I usually stick to high rise res and commercial.

Patio doors are a bit more tricky. I personally think the newer vinyl ones are garbage.

If your handy you can install windows yourself. Or I can give you a name of a company that will do then for you (at a better price then I can/will)


Oh and for pricing there is alot more info needed.

Sizes, location, type, ect ect.
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No one on here can answer the questions of how much, etc... without a lot more info. How many, sizes, types, etc....
You need to call around, have people look at the project, get quotes.
 
There was a bit on CBC radio about household window replacement/cost, the guy was saying about $10,000 and more for a whole house. Also something about getting the right type to suit the style of the house, and that outer aluminium/inner wood was best. I've never had any good experience with vinyl, and never heard anybody say anything good about them either. Especially those ridiculous hand-crank casement windows. Guaranteed to fail. This is my know-nothing advice BTW.
 
Quality vinyl is ok, typically its vinyl clad wood but that's a huge cost.

Aluminum is very costly and unless done correctly has little insulation value.

Casement windows are better then vertical sliders as the parts are easily replaced and available at hardware stores. Typically a vertical slider is a pita to find and physically change parts.

Best bang for the buck is foam insulated vinyl, they actually spray the foam inside the vinyl extrusion. I say bang for the buck as its not a huge upgrade above regular vinyl but has good insulation.

Personally it depends on how long you plan on living there.

5 year flip- vinyl

10 years- foam cored vinyl

lifetime - wood core aluminum/vinyl off a company thats been around a long time. I have no experience with fiberglass windows but ihear good things.

Some more points.

Stay away from Pella. They make it impossible to replace just the glass. You have to replace a sash and they revamp their line every 6 or so years. Meaning a $300 broken glass becomes a $1k job.

Window City makes a good product with good backing but the same quality product can be found cheaper. The upside to window city is the chance of them going under is slim. So warranty claims will be fulfilled.

Dont get suckered into triple sealed glass (unless the front of your house is on a noisy street) or argon. Argon is the biggest crock ever, if your interested why ill explain.

When talking to a company make sure they explain HOW the window gets installed. You want the entire old wooden frame removed. Not a new window placed inside it.

Upgrades cost and are hard to reverse. Eg. Blinds inside windows are nice and all but what happens when you get sick of the colour or the string breaks.

Get WRITTEN quotes and get quotes on comparable products.

If the doors are still functional, just have them sealed, painted and capped. They dont make doors like they used to.

If you have any specific questions feel free to pm me. That goes for anyone.

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peterm15 said:
Casement windows are better then vertical sliders as the parts are easily replaced and available at hardware stores.
Click to expand...

Yeah, because they're designed to fail! It's not as if there aren't better mechanisms out there, like these levers
Profile_casement_stay.jpg


I refuse to buy replacement crank mechanisms. Maybe if the frame weren't made of vinyl that warps with so little as the heat of the sun, then maybe the windows wouldn't jam and cause the cranks to fail. The whole thing reeks of a scam to me. It's just madness that this is the industry standard!
 
fastar1 said:
Yeah, because they're designed to fail! It's not as if there aren't better mechanisms out there, like these levers


I refuse to buy replacement crank mechanisms. Maybe if the frame weren't made of vinyl that warps with so little as the heat of the sun, then maybe the windows wouldn't jam and cause the cranks to fail. The whole thing reeks of a scam to me. It's just madness that this is the industry standard!
Click to expand...

Sadly, I agree with this in terms of how often those window crank break. As for sliding windows, I've never had any issues with them....
 
fastar1 said:
Yeah, because they're designed to fail! It's not as if there aren't better mechanisms out there, like these levers
Profile_casement_stay.jpg


I refuse to buy replacement crank mechanisms. Maybe if the frame weren't made of vinyl that warps with so little as the heat of the sun, then maybe the windows wouldn't jam and cause the cranks to fail. The whole thing reeks of a scam to me. It's just madness that this is the industry standard!
Click to expand...

I have replaces many of those as well, and they get jammed up just as much on vinyl. I'm not saying casement are the best option. They are not. horizontal sliders are very good, but if a vertical slider is needed a casement is better as its easier to repair. As well. Well built windows have reinforcements where the crank attaches.

There is a reason why I suggest quality windows from a reputable company. That is one of them. Installation also makes a difference with those cranks. if the window is put in level rather then adjusted for ease of opening it can ruin the locks and cranks.

The industry standard for windows is retarded. There basically is no governing body on how they are designed or built. As long as they block a certian level of water and air they pass. Which in itself is a good idea BUT they guidelines on how much air they can leak is foolish. Way to much IMO. I dont remember exact numbers though. Stainless steel screws should also be used but never are.

The wood or foam cored vinyl is MUCH better with warpage.

Now to get technical its much better to purchase windows from outside southern Ontario.

Windows in SO only have to be rated for -10 or -15 deg. While windows from northern Ontario have to be rated for -25.

I did say earlier in this thread that I find house windows a PITA and the above mentioned is the reason. The industry standard is far to low. I also routinely get refused the jobs because I refuse to quote with inferior products. Id rather pass the job onto someone who will.

Oh and for anyone interested. New condos are even worse. Engineers came up with a "great idea" to stop air leakage but in return have caused condensation on the windows which is already causing mold and ruined floors/mouldings. So to anyone buying a new condo, be careful.

Oh and for the record a house can be done easily for 10k. But if you plan on living in that house for a lifetime expect double that or more. For 10k you should get 10-15 years depending on exposure.
And an upgrade to self cleaning glass is fine. As long as its minimal. There is a very small cost difference between the cost of regular glass and self clean.

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wow, thank you all for this educational evening, peterm thank you for all the input - i'll pm you when ready to proceed, thank you!
 
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