Hi evryone. Just joined in yesterday and wanted to say hello. At the same time ask for everyones thoughts on the issue I have with my bike. I have a 2008 Suzuki C109 which I purchased in 2009 brand new and I just noticed that the oil smells like gas. Actually come to think of it I did smell gas in the oil in my previouse oil changes as well, but, didn't think much of it. This bike is fule injected and I installed the big stright pipes and a power commandor III on delivery. The bike runns really well otherwise and I've put around 13,000Km on it so far, but, I've alwasy felt that the gas consumption has been on the high side(which may have something to do with my issue). Any thoughts as to what might be causing this will be much appreciated.
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My oil smells like gas
- Thread starter Rider
- Start date
Yup. You are mapped way too rich.
See this current thread elsewhere in these forums http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/showthread.php?139006-Ok-fuel-milage-one-more-time.
See this current thread elsewhere in these forums http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/showthread.php?139006-Ok-fuel-milage-one-more-time.
Is the oil level going up between oil changes?
Yes.... waiting and drooling! lol
Yup
Thanks for everyone’s response. At this point I know the smell of gas in my oil is caused by the PC III mapping. But, with the Hard Krom Big Straight pipes that I have on the bike can I just take the PC III out of the bike all together? Or should I spend the $$$ to re-map it?...I mean can my bike just run everything at stock with the exception of the pipes?
There is no way to know that without trying it.
Since you already have the Power Commander, why don't you try saving the map that you have now (so that you can get back to a known condition), and subtract 10 from all the numbers at normal idle speed and above for 0, 2, 5, and 10% throttle and subtract 5 from everywhere at 20% throttle, and see what happens? You will not burn anything up at such light loads on the engine - as you lean it out, you will get to lean misfire first. Just keep gradually leaning it out until you find where you start getting lean misfire (and then start making finer adjustments at specific engine speeds and throttle positions). Use the 20% throttle position to blend between your light-throttle settings and whatever is on there for higher load.
Since you already have the Power Commander, why don't you try saving the map that you have now (so that you can get back to a known condition), and subtract 10 from all the numbers at normal idle speed and above for 0, 2, 5, and 10% throttle and subtract 5 from everywhere at 20% throttle, and see what happens? You will not burn anything up at such light loads on the engine - as you lean it out, you will get to lean misfire first. Just keep gradually leaning it out until you find where you start getting lean misfire (and then start making finer adjustments at specific engine speeds and throttle positions). Use the 20% throttle position to blend between your light-throttle settings and whatever is on there for higher load.
Thanks for the input Brian, but I'm not all that familiar with PC units and the people who installed the unit for me in the first place and that should've had answers for me were the notorious Suzuki of Newmarket. I think they just dumped that unit in there without even mapping it to suit my bike and are totally clueless as what needs to be done now. I found that after asking them questions and getting absolutely no reasonable answers. Unfortunately, now they're not even honouring their own warranty. It's just a shame and I regret to have dealt with these people.
So ,basically, that's why I have to seek help from someone who knows what he's doning with mapping the unit and that someone is certainly not me in this particular case.
So ,basically, that's why I have to seek help from someone who knows what he's doning with mapping the unit and that someone is certainly not me in this particular case.
Dead simple.
Download this software to your laptop. I presume it is a Power Commander IIIusb in which case you need the software that is the first one on this list.
http://www.powercommander.com/power...wercommander_downloads.aspx?ProdType=PCIIIUSB
Connect a USB cable between the USB port on the PowerCommander and your laptop. With your laptop on, turn on the key, start the engine, then run the software. It will automatically show you the map that you have in the bike. Save it under a different name.
Note that with the engine running, it shows you the speed and throttle position and the current adjustment. Starting at the "0%" throttle position column that is closest to your idle speed, subtract 10 from whatever number is in that cell (negative numbers are allowed! remember that subtracting 10 from "-12" is "-22") and go down the whole column. Do the same in the 2% and 5% and 10% columns. Same idea in the 20% column, but only subtract 5.
Then "send map". It is not hard.
Download this software to your laptop. I presume it is a Power Commander IIIusb in which case you need the software that is the first one on this list.
http://www.powercommander.com/power...wercommander_downloads.aspx?ProdType=PCIIIUSB
Connect a USB cable between the USB port on the PowerCommander and your laptop. With your laptop on, turn on the key, start the engine, then run the software. It will automatically show you the map that you have in the bike. Save it under a different name.
Note that with the engine running, it shows you the speed and throttle position and the current adjustment. Starting at the "0%" throttle position column that is closest to your idle speed, subtract 10 from whatever number is in that cell (negative numbers are allowed! remember that subtracting 10 from "-12" is "-22") and go down the whole column. Do the same in the 2% and 5% and 10% columns. Same idea in the 20% column, but only subtract 5.
Then "send map". It is not hard.
I suspect that you won't notice ANY difference in how the bike runs.
Without a wide-band air/fuel ratio gauge, this will have to be done by trial and error. Don't worry, you won't hurt anything in your engine by guessing too lean under such light load conditions.
Cut it down by 10% at 0, 2, 5, 10% throttle and 5% at 20% as a first guess. Probably you'll notice no difference, maybe throttle response might even be a bit better and for sure the fuel consumption will improve. If it's okay at that setting, try another 10% at 0,2,5,10 and 5% at 20 (bringing your total reduction to 20% and 10% respectively). At that point, there is the possibility that you might start noticing flat spots or hesitation at certain engine speeds. If not ... give it *another* 10 and 5 in the same manner.
Sooner or later you are going to notice certain engine speeds or throttle positions where it just feels flat and unresponsive. You'll know it when it happens. This means that you have gone too far. But since the setting before that was "known good" ... backtrack and increase fuel *at those specific engine speeds only* by (say) 4% at 0,2,5,10 and 2% at 20% throttle.
Eventually, by trial and error, you will find the leanest-smooth-running settings throughout the RPM range that you normally use, which still gives good throttle response and without driveability issues.
Expect a big improvement in fuel consumption and range, and your oil won't smell like gas, and your spark plugs won't look black or wet with fuel any more.
Without a wide-band air/fuel ratio gauge, this will have to be done by trial and error. Don't worry, you won't hurt anything in your engine by guessing too lean under such light load conditions.
Cut it down by 10% at 0, 2, 5, 10% throttle and 5% at 20% as a first guess. Probably you'll notice no difference, maybe throttle response might even be a bit better and for sure the fuel consumption will improve. If it's okay at that setting, try another 10% at 0,2,5,10 and 5% at 20 (bringing your total reduction to 20% and 10% respectively). At that point, there is the possibility that you might start noticing flat spots or hesitation at certain engine speeds. If not ... give it *another* 10 and 5 in the same manner.
Sooner or later you are going to notice certain engine speeds or throttle positions where it just feels flat and unresponsive. You'll know it when it happens. This means that you have gone too far. But since the setting before that was "known good" ... backtrack and increase fuel *at those specific engine speeds only* by (say) 4% at 0,2,5,10 and 2% at 20% throttle.
Eventually, by trial and error, you will find the leanest-smooth-running settings throughout the RPM range that you normally use, which still gives good throttle response and without driveability issues.
Expect a big improvement in fuel consumption and range, and your oil won't smell like gas, and your spark plugs won't look black or wet with fuel any more.
Leave those alone unless you get a dyno run and/or have wide-band O2 sensor information. Running lean with heavy load on the engine can do damage.
For any bike bigger than 250cc, 20% throttle will give you highway speed. Fuel consumption and the other symptoms you're describing are primarily affected by 20% throttle and below (constant-load cruise).
For any bike bigger than 250cc, 20% throttle will give you highway speed. Fuel consumption and the other symptoms you're describing are primarily affected by 20% throttle and below (constant-load cruise).
Appreciate it Brian. I was told that parameters like; altitude, temprature and humidity should be taken into account when it comes to creating maps. How important is this and Do I need to somehow take account of these parameters? Also there are numbers in all throttle positions beyond 20% in the existing map wchich I'm chaning. Should I leave them or zero them?
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