Low temps & burst pipes

RockerGuy

RockerGuy

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For those of you who have a basement & don't use the water pipes. You might want to run it when the temps drop to - 20.

I just had 2 pipes pop on me & my washer in the garage is frozen to crap. I had to cut through drywall to hunt for the leaks, not fun!

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professor said:
I'm on my phone so I can't see well. You repair with a shark bite fitting ?




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I dont know what's it called but its one of those fittings that do not require solder, just push in. The location was very difficult for me to get a propane torch to it because its close to the wall. Can't do a 360 degree solder easily.

The other one burst facing me so I just hammer it smooth then solder it shut. I'm actually sceptical about the no solder fitting
 
I ask because I have herd of them leaking. I use them a lot, more for exposed application. They are tested and approved. But can't beat a weld.
Great item though. Rather expensive!

Personally If I could suggest. Get rid of the bites. Just get 2 couplings. Pry the pipes out. And what I like to do is steel plate behind or alum foil just to protect wall. I don't need to use that technique anymore as I have done it a million times ! Just don't be shy with the flux and it will grab the solder.

I'm sure you know this. Just my 2 cents.


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professor said:
I ask because I have herd of them leaking. I use them a lot, more for exposed application. They are tested and approved. But can't beat a weld.
Great item though. Rather expensive!

Personally If I could suggest. Get rid of the bites. Just get 2 couplings. Pry the pipes out. And what I like to do is steel plate behind or alum foil just to protect wall. I don't need to use that technique anymore as I have done it a million times ! Just don't be shy with the flux and it will grab the solder.

I'm sure you know this. Just my 2 cents.


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Thanks for the info. I actually did use the al foil.
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The fitting is not leaking, which is good. I can't wrap my head around how it actually works. It does say 25yrs warranty, so that's reassuring
 
Basically they have 2 stages.
A release collar. And then through a stainless steel grab ring. Only once it passes through both it latches. I believe the 2nd stage is what also aligns the tubes.

Yes 25 years. Doesn't mean they will pay for your basement flood ;)
30 year shingles also have been replaced after 10. Marketing thing I suppose.
I just did a quick google. Still lots of mixed reviews. But number one go to! Better then compression fittings.


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I got a shark bite T fitting at the water heater. The water heater guy gave it to me when I called about a leak. He said it wasn't their problem but when I started balling my eyes out he gave me the T and said that was the best he could do. It's held up for 2yrs+. I'd use one again. I also used plumbing repair tape for temporary fix under a sink. Leaks when using dish soap, does not leak when using straight water. 3yrs. is considered temporary right?
 
Water pipes in exterior walls, just a stupid idea all around.
 
Not a fan of the idea of drinking water from pex though. Pex comes in different grades/types and the one that is supposedly good for drinking water is probably more expensive so it won't get used. So I imagine every time people fill themselves a nice blue glass of water to drink it never even occurs to them to ask why the water is blue..
 
I know it happens, but a pipe in a house built in the last 40yrs should never have a frozen pipe issue. Now in fairness to plumbing inspectors, when a homeowner finishes a basement or space and boxes in pipes that are meant to be exposed to the heated area of the home, well that's just an invitation for trouble. No plumber or builder would knowingly run DWV or supply lines in an unheated space, but it happens.
If a home inspector doesn't catch that stuff (and lots wont, they suck) at the least when you move into a new house look for where the water lines, drains run, and know where your main shutoff is.
 
if you have exterior pipes then they need to be insulated, othwerise you're just asking for it.
 
crankcall said:
I know it happens, but a pipe in a house built in the last 40yrs should never have a frozen pipe issue. Now in fairness to plumbing inspectors, when a homeowner finishes a basement or space and boxes in pipes that are meant to be exposed to the heated area of the home, well that's just an invitation for trouble. No plumber or builder would knowingly run DWV or supply lines in an unheated space, but it happens.
If a home inspector doesn't catch that stuff (and lots wont, they suck) at the least when you move into a new house look for where the water lines, drains run, and know where your main shutoff is.
Click to expand...

Seems like they put my pipes exposed to the wall, without insulation. Way to go, Mr Contractor. He could have easily just put the pipe behind the insulation, could've save alot of trouble.


For those who care, CP24 recommend leaving your tap in you basement dripping. Your lowest tap. Get ready for it, we're having another cold snap.

I blame it on global warming
<<sarcasm>>
 
hey guys, im part of the burst pipe club now -both the cold and hot water pipes bursted last night, in the same area....theyre being sealed now but i'm being told that the area where the they burst is lacking insulation...pipes being exposed to too much cold air.

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A friend suggested putting in R40 insulation, but I don't think there is enough space to shove it in there, alternatives/suggestions? Should I cut a bigger hole?
 
A friend suggested putting in R40 insulation, but I don't think there is enough space to shove it in there, alternatives/suggestions? Should I cut a bigger hole?[/QUOTE]

Cut a bigger hole and be sure to
Insulate properly and fully or I have a feeling you will have this problem again.



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sprayfoam , maybe...hard to tell what exactly to do from the picture....can you determine where the cold air is coming from?
 
I'd avoid the foam, ever have another leak and the pipes are buried in foam good luck tracing it. You are already into a drywall repair so make the hole big enough to access, the probability is the cold air is coming from the exterior wall rim joist, its a hard area to insulate (if your building a subdivision house) but I'm willing to bet the area toward the exterior wall has little to no insulation.
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