longevity of car electronics

Riceburner

Riceburner

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Any opinions on the longevity of car electronics like cameras, built in NAV systems, all those lane departure warning systems and the like? How robust and how long do you think they can last? Lots of new cars are touting they have them but what's it gonna cost to fix or replace?
 
My Hyundai has a proximity ignition switch. If the battery in the device dies I can't start my car even if it is 100%. For the ultimate in reliability go for a mini-bike with a Briggs and Stratton engine.
 
nobbie48 said:
My Hyundai has a proximity ignition switch. If the battery in the device dies I can't start my car even if it is 100%. For the ultimate in reliability go for a mini-bike with a Briggs and Stratton engine.
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Lolz.

The Koreans build some good electronics though, a la Samsung & LG
 
Three shops in GTA(specializing in automotive electronics), that I do business with, are always full of German, British and Volvo cars.....just say'n .
 
Ford in car suite fails about 3 days after delivery, the new 2015 system is allegedly better. Range Rover electrical stuff has been insane. Alarms and nav sets are well documented . Its here to stay and will get better, but its more complicated than ever and the only dealer solution seems to be plug in new stuff till it lights up again. It's expensive.
 
crankcall said:
Ford in car suite fails about 3 days after delivery, the new 2015 system is allegedly better. Range Rover electrical stuff has been insane. Alarms and nav sets are well documented . Its here to stay and will get better, but its more complicated than ever and the only dealer solution seems to be plug in new stuff till it lights up again. It's expensive.
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I was at a buddy's garage watching him check out a car on his laptop with some universal software. The search checked out fifty or more thousand devices, chips and connections. When the bad part is found changing it may involve removing the interior and dash. Not cheap in man hours.

The first Mustangs are 50 years old and you can still get parts for them to keep them running if that is your desire. It's going to be a lot tougher keeping a 2015 car on the road that long when the various chips and sensors become obsolete, not to mention the plastic bits.
 
Interesting, the extended warranty offered now is a bit different. 3 years is factory, but you can extend to 5 years for $3k. If you don't use the extended warranty between year 3 and 5, you get your $3k back. But if you use any warranty you don't get a refund. I guess they hope you forget and use the warranty for something less than $3k worth or panic and use it for something a few k worth thinking you will have other repairs that will add up to more than 3k....and end up spending less. So they make the interest on your $ for 5 years if you don't use it and get a refund...or your use is less than $3k and they keep the rest. Not sure I've seen many over $3k worth of warranty work after the factory warranty period...at least not in the last few cars I've bought, but that's before they got filled with so many gadgets.
 
The fob in my old 2003 to unlock the door lasted longer than the car, when we got rid of it this year.
Door locks and windows were also o.k. Although one went intermittent for a while at year five.

Camera lenses and such should stay fine.
We'll see how well the connectors through the doors and such work, if and when stuff starts rusting.

There's a section in the manual about using the key within the fob to open the door, and holding it close to the ignition to start the car one last time, to drive it to the dealer for replacement.

I'm a little more worried about them using cheaper and lighter materials to surround the electronic components.
They're not designed to take the shock of a collision, or work when smushed into a little ball.
 
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Same old same old. I know about as much about this as a witch doctor knows about medicine so my opinion makes a lot of sense to me. A lot of this tech is nonsense, if it's not for fuel economy or safety(to a point) why bother? Anyway, my opinion is that "they" will try their hardest to make systems as robust and trouble free as possible while keeping an eye on the bean counter. Once that's squared away there will be the constant eroding of quality as pennies are shaved off the hundreds of components that comprise these systems. However it shakes out 99% drivers will be at the mercy of the car industry. That makes sense to me based on the nitrogen tire strategy.
 
Im with Inreb, I use to drive a 1983 K5 blazer, with a 6.2L diesel (which gets the same fuel economy as my new truck). That thing was a tank and easy as hell for me to fix/work on, downside was the battle with rust. But now I was talked into leasing a brand new tacoma, thinking ill get a few trouble free years out of it, and just go back to an old truck once I find a good one for sale. Ive already had coolant leaks within my 6 months of "owning" this tacoma and Im starting to get wind noise from my door seal... so im not sold on new is better, just seems cheap to me. I cant imagine trying to figure out electric problems with this thing in 10-15 years, so I bet most people who know **** all about mechanics are on the lease train for the rest of their lives.

How can they tell in a crash that some hidden electronics havent been damaged, if they work now but after a couple of pot holes break? then you have to trace sooo many connections and related components that throw one code at you and when you fix that, throw a few more your way.

What about those motors with that stupid stop/start at red lights, how fast are you going to wear out your starter? or that stupid cylinder de-activation system? on top of that they come up with new stupid "improvements" all the time and your mechanic is suppose to keep up to date AND remember how to fix all the old junk too?
 
That's the question about the extended warranty. Will you spend at least $3k on warranty items between years 3 to 5? Guess it's always a gamble. Thought most time if anything is going to go wrong on warranty items it will be the first 3 years. Damage from an accident isn't warranty covered.
 
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The only time a NAV system/reverse camera has been problematic is when it's an aftermarket unit. The OEM stuff is usually pretty good.
 
Mina said:
The only time a NAV system/reverse camera has been problematic is when it's an aftermarket unit. The OEM stuff is usually pretty good.
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Talk to people that own a late model GM with security module problems.
OEM modules worth $550- $1250 each get thrown at the thing... and it still won't start.

When your SatNAv packs it in, PFFfft, no problem.
When your $75,000 2 year old truck won't start, PROBLEM.
 
Ford SYNC is unresponsive after 2yrs of heavy use (BT audio, Aux in, and Voice command). I changed the fuse upon the advice from the web. No luck so far. I will disconnect positive terminal of the battery to do a full reset.

Anyone knows how long I should be leaving the battery disconnected for the reset to take effect?
 
Ugur Dinch said:
Ford SYNC is unresponsive after 2yrs of heavy use (BT audio, Aux in, and Voice command). I changed the fuse upon the advice from the web. No luck so far. I will disconnect positive terminal of the battery to do a full reset.

Anyone knows how long I should be leaving the battery disconnected for the reset to take effect?
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20 minutes did the trick on a 2011 Escape, did the fuse pull thing as well. Worked well after that.
 
I think this is easy to figure out.
They now give you a x years perforation coverage (against rust making a hole in the metal)
You also get x years on the transmission.

It seems they obviously know how long before rusts starts presuming there is no rust proofing such as Krown every year.
My guess, 5 years and if you get 7 years then be happy, anything after that is goof fortune :)
 
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