KLR bearing replacment. | GTAMotorcycle.com

KLR bearing replacment.

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timtune

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Had part of a rusty nail pierce the rear tire and tube. Patched the tube and spooned on a new tire. (2006 KLR650)

Just as I'm about to mount the wheel I notice one bearing is seized. Won't turn but maybe a degree or so. The axle looks fine. No scraping marks or burning, like something happened since I got the wheel off.

Tried flushing it with carb cleaner and the little red tube but nothing.

Anyone replaced one? Just like the steering stem bearing, Kawi gives you bugger all of a lip to connect on with a drift. Manual shows a special tool method that you wedge in place or they suggest heat and good luck with the drift.

Didn't try comp air yet (just thot of it). Maybe after lunch and calming beer/smoke break I'll give that a shot.

Any thoughts?
 
I assume there's a tube/spacer in between the two bearings. You have to get the tube to shift over just enough to allow some purchase on the offending bearing.

Good luck.
 
You could do a hatchet job and cut the bearing with a dremel tool.

But yeah you need space between the spacer and bearing to pry it out.

(y)
 
OK then. Compressed air and more spray managed to flush something out it seems. Greased and heading back together.

Agreed @Jayell that's what the book says and it would be a prick I think.

I wonder if it's possible, had I needed, to use the weld trick as I did for the steering stem races? Even with a complete bearing I think one could lay down enough bead on the outer race.
 
timtune said:
Agreed @Jayell that's what the book says and it would be a prick I think.
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I changed the wheel bearings, front and rear, on my old Tiger. It had a similar set-up. I don't recall any difficulty, using nothing but hand tools.
 
Relax said:
Hopefully it's not part of a broken cage.
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It was fine before and after. I think something got into it after it came off the bike.
 
If the bearing was dry, it needs to be replaced. It won't last.
Bearings are cheap and easy to replace... which is sorta the point of bearings.
If you "off road" a bike, you should be replacing wheel and lower suspension bearings regularly, it works out to be cheaper than repairing damage later
IF you're going to be screwing with bikes (You seem to be) you want a "blind bearing puller" ... it makes the job simple.
The "bodge" method is to put a drift on the inside of the far bearing and WHACK it HARD, that will displace the bearing far enough you can get a drift on it.
 
TK4 said:
And then replace them BOTH.
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If you hit a bearing with a hammer, it needs to be replaced.
NEVER hit a bearing you plan to use with a hammer or an impact gun.
Basically: if you remove a bearing, replace it.
Roller bearings are not designed for side load, and are are a lot more brittle than we think
Bearings are cheap... if you buy them at a bearing house. Don't buy bearings at a bike/car dealership or off Amazon... you're getting hosed, and you'll get better bearings at a bearing house, for less money.
If you're buying wheel bearings, buy 2Z bearings and toss the shields and seals... less drag on a 2Z, and less susceptible to damage

... you DO know what "bodge" means don't you? Would you have preferred "cludge"? How 'bout "back yard mechanic" or HACK?
 
bitzz said:
If you're buying wheel bearings, buy 2Z bearings and toss the shields and seals... less drag on a 2Z, and less susceptible to damage.
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If there is no external seal I prefer to leave the shields in place (outside anyway) especially for wheel bearings. It keeps the water and muck out.
 
Bearing was not dry. It was nicely lubed - likely what caught a piece of dirt large enough to lock it up.

Headed out now for a test ride...
 
Thanks @bitzz I may look into that.

This has reminded me of a trick my Dad used once. Bearing in the bottom of a blind hole (truley blind - no thru hole). He turned a wooden dowel to just fit inside the inner race. Then half filled that space with grease. Then he hammered the dowel into the inner race which forced the grease in under the bearing, forcing it out.
 
timtune said:
Had part of a rusty nail pierce the rear tire and tube. Patched the tube and spooned on a new tire. (2006 KLR650)

Just as I'm about to mount the wheel I notice one bearing is seized. Won't turn but maybe a degree or so. The axle looks fine. No scraping marks or burning, like something happened since I got the wheel off.

Tried flushing it with carb cleaner and the little red tube but nothing.

Anyone replaced one? Just like the steering stem bearing, Kawi gives you bugger all of a lip to connect on with a drift. Manual shows a special tool method that you wedge in place or they suggest heat and good luck with the drift.

Didn't try comp air yet (just thot of it). Maybe after lunch and calming beer/smoke break I'll give that a shot.

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Should be fairly easy. Thre are 3 rear bearings, the one in the sprocket carrier should be easy. Remove the spanner bushing then use a socket or punch.

The 2 in the hub are trickier, but shouldn’t be too hard to remove. You’ll need a punch at least 12”. Use the punch to move the spanner bushing off centre, then put the punch thru the one bearing then tap the race on the punch around the inner of the other.

A little PB might help as those bearings sometimes he locked in with orange locktite.

I always replace all the bearings in a wheel. They are cheap if you get them at a bearing house.
 
bitzz said:
If you hit a bearing with a hammer, it needs to be replaced.
NEVER hit a bearing you plan to use with a hammer or an impact gun.
Basically: if you remove a bearing, replace it.
Roller bearings are not designed for side load, and are are a lot more brittle than we think
Bearings are cheap... if you buy them at a bearing house. Don't buy bearings at a bike/car dealership or off Amazon... you're getting hosed, and you'll get better bearings at a bearing house, for less money.
If you're buying wheel bearings, buy 2Z bearings and toss the shields and seals... less drag on a 2Z, and less susceptible to damage

... you DO know what "bodge" means don't you? Would you have preferred "cludge"? How 'bout "back yard mechanic" or HACK?
Click to expand...
Roller bearings have higher side load than deep groove ball bearings when used in a wheel. But motorcycles don’t use roller bearings in wheels, as they don’t spin fast enough, motorcycles use deep groove ball bearings. Motorcycles need 2 or 3 deep groove bearings to support side loads.

As for seals and guards, there is no difference in the bearing itself, 2RS and 2Z have the same balls and race. IMHO, 2RS (permanently lubed with seals) are the best for road bikes, they are so cheap it’s not worth running with no seals as you’ll have to repack frequently - trading huge time for money.

Now, a good upgrade is to use stainless bearings. $10 more, but they last and done rust.
 
Relax said:
I knew I was rolling the dice when I bought a couple that didn't work too well off Amazon. Can you recommend a set that's reasonably priced for non-professional work?
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I buy a lot of bearings, for small quantities my fave supplier is RAM Power in Mississauga.

Canadian bearings are also good.
 
Relax said:
Sorry, I meant the blind bearing puller.
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You can 'borrow' blind bearing pullers at some auto parts stores, I know my local PartsSource loans them out. I like the ones with the u shaped clamp, the slide hammer ones work well too, but it can be tough holding small parts.
 
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