Insulating garage doors

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coyo

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I'm looking to insulate my garage doors (currently just a single layer metal door). The garage is part of the house and my bedroom is above it. The walls are insulated and I'm in the process of installing a 240V line to use the construction heater I just bought (but only when working on the bike, etc... out there) but need to do something about the doors.

I've looked into both the foam panels and the radiant double foil solutions. Does anyone have any opinions, suggestions, other ideas on this?

Thanks in advance.
 
The only real way to do it, would be to replace the doors with more substantial, insulated doors. If you add any weight to the existing doors then you're likely going to need to have someone come back in and re-balance the return spring, anyway.
 
my father in law put in the styrafoam panels and it helped a lot.
he didnt have to do anything with the return spring....
 
Im in the middle of installing the 2x4' styrofoam in the panels, seams to fit bang on.
No telling how it will insulate but can defiantly hear the deference in sound, and it cant get any colder.
 
Remember that exposed foam may screw with building code, which could screw with your fire insurance.
 
If you don't need to open the garage door very often, just seal it shut with a good plastic sheet. :cool:
 
Try one of the spray foam companies. Probably more expensive, but some would have a fire-retardant formulation so no issues with the code.
 
A new insulated door is under 350 bucks at home depot replace it, then you have a nice looking new door. No spray for or foam sheet is fire rated unless covered.
 
coyo said:
I'm looking to insulate my garage doors (currently just a single layer metal door). The garage is part of the house and my bedroom is above it. The walls are insulated and I'm in the process of installing a 240V line to use the construction heater I just bought (but only when working on the bike, etc... out there) but need to do something about the doors.

I've looked into both the foam panels and the radiant double foil solutions. Does anyone have any opinions, suggestions, other ideas on this?

Thanks in advance.
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Garagejournal has some threads on this subject

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/search.php?searchid=7297500
 
Rob MacLennan said:
Remember that exposed foam may screw with building code, which could screw with your fire insurance.
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Yep.... Call your house insurance. Last thing you need is a fire and your insurance deemed void when they find foam residue on the doors.

Lyndsay said:
Try one of the spray foam companies. Probably more expensive, but some would have a fire-retardant formulation so no issues with the code.
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Can be $$$ and ugly.
 
I was going to use fiberglass lay-in ceiling tiles to do mine but replaced the door instead. My garage is a single with the bedroom above. I've insulated the walls as well and with the heat gain from the house nothing ever freezes and a 240V electric heater makes it decent to work in.

If this is a short term deal then some bulk fiberglass with poly film over it would work OK but if you're opening and closing a lot or planning to keep things going for a number of years the new door is the way to go. The red vapour barrier tape really sticks to the poly film.

Most rigid foams are combustible and give off nasties when they burn. They need to be covered with drywall which makes for lousy doors.
 
There is a code requirement on flame spread and accumulated smoke when burned, which may or may not be a factor in your door insulation. An insulated door is a beautiful thing, but if your in a townhouse complex or condo arrangement its not as easy as getting a new door, you need approvals.
I'd get an SM type foam board insulation, its extruded not expanded like that white beadboard crap. Fit the panels as tightly to the reinforcing ribs as possible, use a spraycan of low expansion to fill any little gaps where the board isnt a perfect fit.
Talk to any sheet metal supplier, roofing supplier (Patenes) and get the lightest gauge sheet metal you can find (probably 22g) and use selftapper screws to affix the the inside of door, you've neatened up the job, fulfilled any code requirements.
If its a single car door and a swing up not roll up, the tension should be on two side coil springs, put an equal # of turns on the eyebolts to take more load off the door if you need.
 
^^^ smart idea. Basically making your door an insulated panel.

I would just be sure you cover all insulation (spray expanded etc) in the sheet metal. Need to keep it protected from sparks and fire. And Noobie is right... you dont want to be breathing the fumes from that burning...
 
As much as I'd like to put up new insulated doors, it's just not in the cards for the cost seeing as my current doors are in good shape. I'm leaning towards the radiant foil insulation. Initially I was thinking that I could put fiberglass insulation into the panels, secure it with wire then put the radiant foil over top but then I'd be concerned that the fiberglass would absorb moisture, adding weight to the door.
 
A little extra weight isn't a big deal. Just tighten up the springs. You need two metal rods that fit well in the holes (1/2"?). I have rods ~18" long, as long as you are careful it's not a big deal (probably 30 lbs or so needed at the end of the rod). I have no idea how much extra twist you can put in garage springs before they break but I have added a few full turns to a number of doors with no issues.

Radiant foil instead of foam is a good idea. It won't work as well, but by the time you do foam+ sheet metal covering, you will be close to the price of a new insulated door.
 
IF you google "adjusting garage door springs", you will even get a video on how to do it, worked for me when the door springs decided to let go....., I used rebar from Home Depot, bought a four foot length and cut in in half.




GreyGhost said:
A little extra weight isn't a big deal. Just tighten up the springs. You need two metal rods that fit well in the holes (1/2"?). I have rods ~18" long, as long as you are careful it's not a big deal (probably 30 lbs or so needed at the end of the rod). I have no idea how much extra twist you can put in garage springs before they break but I have added a few full turns to a number of doors with no issues.

Radiant foil instead of foam is a good idea. It won't work as well, but by the time you do foam+ sheet metal covering, you will be close to the price of a new insulated door.
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