How to deglaze brake rotors? | GTAMotorcycle.com

How to deglaze brake rotors?

Corsara

Corsara

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Planning to put my new expensive pads soon, and I know I should deglaze the rotors. How should I do it? Sand paper? Scotch brite pads (what kind)? Circular motion / outside to the inside / inside to the outside..?

Thanks in advance. I really want to do this right.
 
Corsara said:
Planning to put my new expensive pads soon, and I know I should deglaze the rotors. How should I do it? Sand paper? Scotch brite pads (what kind)? Circular motion / outside to the inside / inside to the outside..?

Thanks in advance. I really want to do this right.
Click to expand...

use cheap sandpaper :)
 
I would use a scotch brite pad and brake clean, I dont really think it matters what direction you sand, just make sure you cover the hole rotor
 
when we did this, after every race, caliper comes off, wheel gets spun and a block of wood with 120g aluminum oxide paper gets applied as evenly as possible to the surface just long enough to remove any glaze. A scotch brite could take forever but if your not sure of what your doing a green scotchbrite on a block of wood will work. Then brake clean to get rid of any residue.
You have new pads so doesnt matter, but later on take the pads out and in a figure 8 motion give them a buff up with 80 grit self adhesive paper stuck to an aluminum plate so it stays flat. Use a few gentle brake apps to bed them in and be sure everything is right.
Later make this a monday night ritual, when the caliper is off look for leaks, smell for hot rubber, look at fittings. If you find a problem you have all week to correct.
People will tell you that brakes don't need checked ALL the time. They dont, only the really fast guys will have this done for them.
(ex junior crew that got all the dirty jobs)
 
crankcall said:
when we did this, after every race, caliper comes off, wheel gets spun and a block of wood with 120g aluminum oxide paper gets applied as evenly as possible to the surface just long enough to remove any glaze. A scotch brite could take forever but if your not sure of what your doing a green scotchbrite on a block of wood will work. Then brake clean to get rid of any residue.
You have new pads so doesnt matter, but later on take the pads out and in a figure 8 motion give them a buff up with 80 grit self adhesive paper stuck to an aluminum plate so it stays flat. Use a few gentle brake apps to bed them in and be sure everything is right.
Later make this a monday night ritual, when the caliper is off look for leaks, smell for hot rubber, look at fittings. If you find a problem you have all week to correct.
People will tell you that brakes don't need checked ALL the time. They dont, only the really fast guys will have this done for them.
(ex junior crew that got all the dirty jobs)
Click to expand...

Very informative. Thank you!
 
Depends on the pad.

Most newer pads may need to bed in. They will transfer a small amount of brake pad material to the rotor when you first use them. Ideally you want to remove any old brake pad material before you bed in the new pads. I don't think you need to de-glaze after every trackday or anything like that. I don't de-glaze at any point between pad replacement (unless something sits for a while and looks a little rusty). I don't know anyone else that de-glazes that often either.

Get one of these little guys and do both rotors inside and out. It'll last you a long time.

http://bluestreakracing.ca/tools/brake-rotor-hone.html
 
I have the same hone stone Caboose posted. When putting on new pads I use it. Otherwise I don't do anything in particular unless I find a pulsing. Before I decide to write the rotor off as warped I first hone them and try again, in hopes that there was just a "hard spot" on the rotor with pad material built up.
 
Caboose and those are absolutely correct, you wont likely need to deglaze every race weekend. But checking the brakes is a good habit to get into. Pad and rotor metal technology has gotten much better since I was deeply involved.

The brake hone they pictured up is a great idea, I have the much older version made by RedPoint. They have come down a lot in price, @ $49. from bluestreak that would be a good investment.
 
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