High Idle at stops

I'd say check the routing of your throttle cables and makes sure they are A-Okay. Also, if it has not been done recently I'd suggest to lube your cables which can prevent them from sticking and make it a snappier return to closed throttle.

Under your carbs your going to see this;

DSCF0025idlescrew.jpg


Thats your idle adjustment screw, so now you can do it your self. The idle speed on your GS500 should be 1200 rpms when the engine is warm. Suzuki recommends an idle of 1100-1300, with 1200 as the ideal speed. To adjust the idle speed, first warm up the engine with a 15 minute ride. Keep the engine running and twist the idle adjust screw until it hovers within the 1100-1300 speed. To find the idle adjust screw look on the bottom the carburators above the oil fill hole. Turn the screw to the right (clockwise) to increase the idle speed, and to the left (counterclockwise) to decrease it. Its gonna be hot there so wear gloves or don't touch the shiny things.
 
Vacuum leak? Look around some one else here had a similar prob not long ago.
 
My '04 GS500f does the same thing. I put some carb cleaner in the gas tank and it helped a little. I first thought it was my throttle cable sticking, but i WD40ed the sh1t out of it and it still idled high.

Suzuki of Newmarket said the throttle thingy in the carburetor might be sticking and needs to be cleaned and rebuild ($500+).

Until i find the funds to get that service, I keep the bike in gear till almost a complete stop. This way, while slowing down, I force the engine to drop its revs, and about at 1'500rpm i pull in the clutch and it usually drops to the proper 1'100rpm.

I will update when i have more info.

Cheers!
 
kovac said:
Suzuki of Newmarket said the throttle thingy in the carburetor might be sticking and needs to be cleaned and rebuild ($500+).


Cheers!
Click to expand...


what throttle thingy in the carburetor?

As for the cables sticking, you should pick up a cable lubing tool. There is adjustments on the butterfly, where the throttle cables link up to, maybe the tension isn't set properly...
 
kovac said:
Suzuki of Newmarket said the throttle thingy in the carburetor might be sticking and needs to be cleaned and rebuild ($500+).
Click to expand...
$500+ to rebuild 2 carbs ?
Wow, I'll fix your throttle thingy for that.. Even change your oil for $350 ;) j/k

Send Ken (Kneedragger88 ) a message
 
ScoTTY88 said:
I'd say check the routing of your throttle cables and makes sure they are A-Okay. Also, if it has not been done recently I'd suggest to lube your cables which can prevent them from sticking and make it a snappier return to closed throttle.

Under your carbs your going to see this;

DSCF0025idlescrew.jpg


Thats your idle adjustment screw, so now you can do it your self. The idle speed on your GS500 should be 1200 rpms when the engine is warm. Suzuki recommends an idle of 1100-1300, with 1200 as the ideal speed. To adjust the idle speed, first warm up the engine with a 15 minute ride. Keep the engine running and twist the idle adjust screw until it hovers within the 1100-1300 speed. To find the idle adjust screw look on the bottom the carburators above the oil fill hole. Turn the screw to the right (clockwise) to increase the idle speed, and to the left (counterclockwise) to decrease it. Its gonna be hot there so wear gloves or don't touch the shiny things.
Click to expand...

I took it for a ride today, it was good for the first bit, so when it was warm I adjusted the idle, it worked for a few minutes, and then seemed like when I was at a stop, and I had the clutch pulled in and it idled high, when I released the clutch a little to see if the idle would go down, it didn't work so well. It just wanted to take off.


kneedragger88 said:
+1 GS's are famous for it. The other issue is a over lean pilot from the factory.
Click to expand...

Hmmm... I'm going to ask at work tomorrow if they know of this in the 500.

kovac said:
My '04 GS500f does the same thing. I put some carb cleaner in the gas tank and it helped a little. I first thought it was my throttle cable sticking, but i WD40ed the sh1t out of it and it still idled high.

Suzuki of Newmarket said the throttle thingy in the carburetor might be sticking and needs to be cleaned and rebuild ($500+).

Until i find the funds to get that service, I keep the bike in gear till almost a complete stop. This way, while slowing down, I force the engine to drop its revs, and about at 1'500rpm i pull in the clutch and it usually drops to the proper 1'100rpm.

I will update when i have more info.

Cheers!
Click to expand...

DANG!!! Glad I work for head office and don't pay those prices!

Thanks for all the input, I'll look into the cable lube & tool also.
 
My GF has the same bike (GS500f) and had the exact same issue...

Seems one of the exhaust valves was slightly tight, making it very difficult to set the idle to spec. If set to idle at around 1200 warm, it would occasionally rev to 3000 when stopping. If set to 1100 rpm, it would often stall when stopping.

After adjusting the valves, no more issues. Runs like a champ now.

How many kms do you have on yours, and when's the last time the valves were checked? The service manual calls for very frequent valve checks for some reason (every 6k :mad:).
 
To check for throttle stick: just twist close the throttle and make sure you turn it so can't turn it close any more. If the idle drops lower, then sticky throttle could be the problem.

Lean pilot mixture: if the idle is set lean, then the RPM would go stay high after closing the throttle. The RPM will then, slowly, slowly drop, but never quite settle down. Do you need a lot of choke for starting? A mixture that's too lean can also cause problems with the exhaust valves.
 
i remember this happening to mine..used to idle around 3000+ at stop,,

this solved mine.. at the end of my ride, adjust the valve on the pic posted so that the stop idle is sitting @ 1200rpm..ps the engine is hot so dont burn urself.. that should do it
 
dy9213 said:
Lean pilot mixture: if the idle is set lean, then the RPM would go stay high after closing the throttle. The RPM will then, slowly, slowly drop, but never quite settle down. Do you need a lot of choke for starting? A mixture that's too lean can also cause problems with the exhaust valves.
Click to expand...


That does sound like what happening. I do have to give it full choke when i cold start it, but i only leave it for couple seconds before i can back the choke off.

Heres another related anomaly, if i leave the choke on, the RPMs never increase, the engines just struggles and makes a *putt putt putt* sound. The only time the RPMs go up is if the bike is warm and idling, and i then increase the choke (without touching the throttle of coarse)
 
djltoronto said:
My GF has the same bike (GS500f) and had the exact same issue...

Seems one of the exhaust valves was slightly tight, making it very difficult to set the idle to spec. If set to idle at around 1200 warm, it would occasionally rev to 3000 when stopping. If set to 1100 rpm, it would often stall when stopping.

After adjusting the valves, no more issues. Runs like a champ now.
Click to expand...

Interesting, I was having the same issue, and when I did a valve check I had no clearance on one exhaust.
 
Check the rubber boots between the carb and the head for cracks, or in case they aren't sealed and clamped tightly against the head. Any air sneaking in here will be a vacuum leak and will cause high idle
 
Thanks for the advice. I recently had some work done on my 2006 Suzuki and noticed the idle was up around 2000. Thanks to the above tip I am back to 1400.
 
What happens is that once 'idle' reaches 2000 RPM or so, you get into spark advance, and revs will increase to 3000 RPM (ie. you're not idling anymore).
But if you turn idle down to proper RPM when hot, bike can be miserable and stalling at idle when cold.
Assuming all your carb fittings are tight and no air leaks, and you don't have any valves tightening up, the bike sounds as if it is uncomfortably lean.
These problems you're experiencing in today's emission-controlled world are one clear reason why fuel injection has taken over.
You just can't make bikes with carbs run right, and be compliant!
I think your stock bike would benefit from a DynoJet jet kit, though it might become a little rich (but better than lean!)
Balance that richness with a K&N air filter and removal of any intake silencer.
Ninja 250s are like this too - but at least they don't typically catch advance and zoom past 3k at idle.
All bikes should be nice and rich at idle. And they always were, for decades and decades...
 
I recently had the same type of problem. I found that after riding on the 401 and coming into stop and go traffic, my bike would idle really high. I'd be able to get it down to 1500RPM by applying the brake and releasing the clutch while standing still. Then while idling at 1500 I'd hear the odd clunking noise possibly a pre-ignition. I took it to Snow City they charged me $280 to " replace spark plugs, remove and clean out carbs, synch'd, reset idle". The bike sounded great upon pick up and I noticed that the idle had been set lower. My only beef was that the 2009 GS500f (3848km)was still on warranty as I bought the bike last November brand new. I pointed out to the sevice manager that I took it to GP Bikes for its first 1000km service , used the correct gas grade and also stored it with stabilizer over the winter. I felt that I had done everything correct and that it should be covered by warranty. Of course, SC,although sympathetic, said take it up with Suzuki. I'm curious ,will it happen again...
 
Hi all,

I am new here but recently discovered this problem on my GS500. It has an extremely bad hanging idle. I found the cause to be a vacuum leak at the throttle shaft. This was verified by spraying carb cleaner into the throttle shaft and the bike dying as a result. This happened multiple times. Unfortunately this is not an easy fix, but I have a few solutions I'd like to provide for others facing this issue as it can be VERY frustrating.

Ghetto solutions:
- Lots of grease on shaft end, replenish grease every 100-200 miles.
- Rubber plug to fit around housing end, attached with hose clamp/zip tie and RTV
- Externally thread housing around throttle shaft and place acorn nut on body. Use pipe dope or black rtv for air tight seal
- Increase pilot size and adjust mixture for leak

Involved solutions (Removing shaft):
- Machine o-ring groove in shaft and install proper size o-ring
- Install oil lite hat bushing in housing
- Install teflon sleeve over shaft
- Machine new shaft
- Install hat bushings in housing
- Wrap ends of shaft in UHMW tape

Expensive:
- New carbs

If anyone has other solution ideas please share.
 
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