HID's drawing to much power? bad battery?

T

ThrottleThrow

Well-known member
Hey so carbs have been fixed but the 1 hid remaining (removed second hid) is drawing to much power and causing power spikes (rev limiter kicking in at 11k, rough running and speedo and tac is wrong) with the light totaly unplugged the bike runs totaly fine up to 14500k (speedo is stil wrong tho) cold this mean a bad battery (tested and reads 13volt, but don't kno what it reads under load) where should I bring my batteery to get load tested? Or do these hid projectors just draw way to much power. (Bike is a zzr600, just checked wiring job and soderd the bad looking connectors so the hid is installed corectly direct to the battery). How would I kno if the battery is bad or could it be a bad R/R or something else mayb cdi
 
ThrottleThrow said:
Hey so carbs have been fixed but the 1 hid remaining (removed second hid) is drawing to much power and causing power spikes (rev limiter kicking in at 11k, rough running and speedo and tac is wrong) with the light totaly unplugged the bike runs totaly fine up to 14500k (speedo is stil wrong tho) cold this mean a bad battery (tested and reads 13volt, but don't kno what it reads under load) where should I bring my batteery to get load tested? Or do these hid projectors just draw way to much power. (Bike is a zzr600, just checked wiring job and soderd the bad looking connectors so the hid is installed corectly direct to the battery). How would I kno if the battery is bad or could it be a bad R/R or something else mayb cdi
Click to expand...

Why are the HID's wired directly to the battery? Or are you just talking about the Hi/Lo relay?
HID's once powered draw less current fromt he battery then normal halogens.
Try connecting halogens into your bike and see what happens, if its the same then you have a headlight wiring problem. If it is different then your HID's are the culprit.
If it is HID's you either have a cheap set or bad wiring.
 
Its a ghetto ebay kit, they are wired correctly, it uses the stock headlight hi lo relay attached to a module. The wiring is 100 percent fine I went over it with an electrician
 
I got my a couple sets through www.ddmtuning.com They are cheap and work great.
I would look at replacing them as you most likely have a problem in the ballast
 
Funny enough whille redoing the wiring the ballast just stoped working, I replaced it with the ballast from the other side light and it worked fine.I can't put stock in as the reflectors are gone its just black back with the projector unit. 300 bucks for a oem unit from ebay, not a single salvage shop in north america has a used one.There's no way it could b the battery or charging system, even with the lights disconnected the speedo is still off by 20km so mayb the bat is drained under load?
 
ThrottleThrow said:
The wiring is 100 percent fine I went over it with an electrician
Click to expand...
Electricians are usually experts at AC wiring. I've met some electricians who could hardly read a bike schematic.

Try going over it with a mechanic - or someone with substantial 12 volt experience.

Some of the older - larger, non digital HID ballasts draw as much as 12 amps each when starting. Most of the newer smaller digital ballasts are limited to 8 amps max during startup, and float around 3 amps when running. (assuming a 35w HID kit and not a 55w version).
 
ThrottleThrow said:
even with the lights disconnected the speedo is still off by 20km so mayb the bat is drained under load?
Click to expand...

Off by 20 kms or off by 20% (big difference).
If it's off by a fixed amount - it could be as simple as the needle not being installed correctly.

is there stock sprockets on the bike?
 
Its an older kit, there's no model number or manufacture identifications anywhere, makes me think its a super ghetto chinese knock off. All it says on it is HID and on a module it says 24000 volts.By eletrician I ment automotive electrician, its my dad and he works in the industryThe speedo problem just started, before with both lights installed the speedo and tach would b off, after the secod light was removed, th tach would mess up on occasion, but now the tach works fine all the time, but the speedo is now wrong constantly. I'm thinking electrical interference (ballast s not installed properly, just jammed behind the instrument panel) or bad battery (on cars the tach and speedo starts to go weird when the battery is dying in my experience)
 
ThrottleThrow said:
I can't put stock in as the reflectors are gone its just black back with the projector unit. 300 bucks for a oem unit from ebay, not a single salvage shop in north america has a used one.
Click to expand...

Do you know what kind of projectors? FX-R or those chinese projectors with the angel eyes? Just replace the ballast or the HID kit? and then you won't have to buy a new housing.

As for the speedometer as Mike mentioned if its of 20% you need a speedohealer as your sprockets have probably been changed.
If it is off 20km then the needle was probably installed wrong.
 
Dave_Stumph said:
what he said ^^
Click to expand...
Stock sprockkets, the speedo problem is new, before it would only mess up when tach messed up which was like intermitant, but it was accurate, now the tach is fine all the time, but the speedo is wrong all the time, its not intermitant, and the tach problem disapered
 
Before I would start the bike and sometimes the needle on the tach would literaly snap back to zero, and then crawl up to 500 rpm, which was half the idle speed. I would shut it off, and turn it on a gain (tach resets) and it would work, sometimes take me 3-4 times but it would end up working. Now that totaly stoped, but the speedo is allways wrongn tach seems to b fine now tho. Its so odd

Btw they are the chinese ones with the angel eyes.
 
Last edited:
I would rule out dying battery and say you have a definite problem in the electrical system.
Whether it be the ballasts or faulty wiring, But I would unplug your HID's and plug in a set of halogens (even if they cant be put in the housing) and just ride around in a parking lot and see if you still have the problem. If you do its faulty wiring, if you dont its your HID kit.
 
When I installed my HID kit (DDM Tuning), I bought and installed a better wiring harness. This kit is fired off the factory relays, but has two direct lines straight back to the battery.

My bike (Suzuki Bandit) is known for having a very poor factory wiring harness. Before doing the upgraded harness, I found the HID kit worked poorly/intermittently - and so did people on the max-suzuk message board.

You could make your own harness with automotive-grade relays and heavy wire (12 or 14 ga?), or you could find a kit here: http://easternbeaver.com/

Vlad on this forum has done a lot of work on this stuff.

Another option - rather than buying the factory reflectors, buy proper projector headlights. This would involve some craftiness and re-wiring but it should give you great lights: http://cabuhs.net/index.php/bandit-hella-mod

Good luck!
 
jeffjones said:
I would rule out dying battery and say you have a definite problem in the electrical system.Whether it be the ballasts or faulty wiring, But I would unplug your HID's and plug in a set of halogens (even if they cant be put in the housing) and just ride around in a parking lot and see if you still have the problem. If you do its faulty wiring, if you dont its your HID kit.
Click to expand...
I have a stock single bulb from a zx9r, would that work instead of a halogen for testing, just plug in that bulb, and unplug the hids, see if it doesn't rev limit.How big of a job is it installing a new wiring harness, does that invlove rerouting all the wires in the intire bike? That seems like a huge job, after buying a new harness and installing it to get these ****** hids to work, wouldn't it just make sense to go back to a oem stock housing and bulbs, and not mess with the harness? That would cost 300 bcks at the most, wouldn't that be the best option finacialy if it is the hids that are doneAlso the speedo problem is still there regardless if the hids are plugged in or not, so are the hids even affecting it? What is caused the speedo to just stop working properly, and for the tach problem to just disapear
 
Last edited:
ThrottleThrow said:
Its an older kit, there's no model number or manufacture identifications anywhere, makes me think its a super ghetto chinese knock off.
Click to expand...

That's funny:lmao:

All the HID conversion kits are "super ghetto Chinese knock offs". There is not a single legitimate HID conversion manufacturer.
Try running without the HID ballasts at all. They use a PWM to control the input current and output Voltage, sounds like the frequency of the PWM is interfering with your Speedo & Tach. Your Seedo & Tach could be permanently damaged if there was enough feedback from the ballast.
 
Both ballasts were just squished in between the windshield and the insturment panel im mounting the working ballast to he inside fairing, mayb tha will work. But if the hids were unplugged and the speedo still wasn't working, that meens its perminatly broken then? Cause the speedo is still ****ed regardless if the ballasts are plugged in or not
 
It could also be the sending unit. I'm not familiar with the system on your bike. The sender could be either passive or active. If it's a passive unit there's little chance it is damaged.
If you know someone with the same bike you could try swapping parts for known good parts. Just keep those ballasts out of the equation.

Your description of the mounting leads to another possible source of your problems. The HID ballasts product a very high Voltage while striking the burner. These a good chance that you had high Voltage interference on your instrument wiring. Either way, the instruments could be fried.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top Bottom