HID Delay Relay (30 sec delay timer)

G

GagguP

Well-known member
Hey,

I'm looking for a delay relay, about 30 seconds so that when i turn the key my HID wont come on right away and I can start the bike and by then/after the 30 seconds the HID will come on while the engines started.

Anyone know where I can get something that does this locally?

Thanks,
Gary
 
Gaggu P said:
Hey,

I'm looking for a delay relay, about 30 seconds so that when i turn the key my HID wont come on right away and I can start the bike and by then/after the 30 seconds the HID will come on while the engines started.

Anyone know where I can get something that does this locally?

Thanks,
Gary
Click to expand...

Why dont u start the bike after a few seconds after turning the key?

Sent from my tablet using my paws
 
Once I turn the key the HID is going to come on draining power straight from the battery. If I wait the 10s or so that it takes the instrument cluster to do its thing, once I hit the starter, the HID loses power and regains it after the bike starts. Its bad for the life of the bulb to have the power to it killed when its just turned on and starting to warm up. I'd have to wait about 45s for the bulb to warm up to the point where I can then start the bike.

HID bulbs need to be powered until they reach operating temperature (~30 to 45 seconds) before being switched off. If not, the metallised salts do not re-crystallise as effectively and wear results. Apart from reduced light output, eventually the ballast will be unable to initiate the arc to start the HID.

I'd rather just have the delay and that way not have to worry about cutting power or needing to wait between turning the key and actually starting the bike. I figure having a little delay lets me turn the key wait for the cluster to do its thing, start, get full power to all electronics and then the HID will kick in.
 
Last edited:
Gaggu P said:
Once I turn the key the HID is going to come on draining power straight from the battery. If I wait the 10s or so that it takes the instrument cluster to do its thing, once I hit the starter, the HID loses power and regains it after the bike starts. Its bad for the life of the bulb to have the power to it killed when its just turned on and starting to warm up. I'd have to wait about 45s for the bulb to warm up to the point where I can then start the bike.

HID bulbs need to be powered until they reach operating temperature (~30 to 45 seconds) before being switched off. If not, the metallised salts do not re-crystallise as effectively and wear results. Apart from reduced light output, eventually the ballast will be unable to initiate the arc to start the HID.

I'd rather just have the delay and that way not have to worry about cutting power or needing to wait between turning the key and actually starting the bike. I figure having a little delay lets me turn the key wait for the cluster to do its thing, start, get full power to all electronics and then the HID will kick in.
Click to expand...



I have been looking into something like that. But would prefer the same system like a kawi.....no lights go on until motor is started.

I found this...its a time delay relay...but its only 10A...http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-SMD-...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item3f12aaa2b2
 
Veno probably has one of the simpler solutions for you, just don't forget to turn 'em on before you leave. Thankfully this isn't something I have to worry about with my Yami :)
 
I'm looking at this, may order it as well.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DEI-DIRECTED...1904?pt=US_Relays_Sensors&hash=item1e776fe9b0

It's got an adjustable timer and its 15A, would that be enough for an HID?

I can pick up two and we can split the shipping if you want it as well.

frekeyguy said:
I have been looking into something like that. But would prefer the same system like a kawi.....no lights go on until motor is started.

I found this...its a time delay relay...but its only 10A...http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-SMD-...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item3f12aaa2b2
Click to expand...
 
That is better, only thing I'm wondering is if the battery / charging system ever gets too weak to keep 13.5v consistently would that mean no lights for me?

I'd only need the first, only using an HID in the low beam.

Thanks
 
Gaggu P said:
That is better, only thing I'm wondering is if the battery / charging system ever gets too weak to keep 13.5v consistently would that mean no lights for me?

I'd only need the first, only using an HID in the low beam.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Maybe, in that case you could just use the time delay relay. Should work ok.
 
Gaggu P said:
Once I turn the key the HID is going to come on draining power straight from the battery. If I wait the 10s or so that it takes the instrument cluster to do its thing, once I hit the starter, the HID loses power and regains it after the bike starts. Its bad for the life of the bulb to have the power to it killed when its just turned on and starting to warm up. I'd have to wait about 45s for the bulb to warm up to the point where I can then start the bike.

HID bulbs need to be powered until they reach operating temperature (~30 to 45 seconds) before being switched off. If not, the metallised salts do not re-crystallise as effectively and wear results. Apart from reduced light output, eventually the ballast will be unable to initiate the arc to start the HID.

I'd rather just have the delay and that way not have to worry about cutting power or needing to wait between turning the key and actually starting the bike. I figure having a little delay lets me turn the key wait for the cluster to do its thing, start, get full power to all electronics and then the HID will kick in.
Click to expand...

Free solution that I use: Change your starting procedure.

Press and hold the starter button in BEFORE switching on the key. Then switch on the key. The engine will crank immediately (and the headlamp cutoff relay holds the headlamp circuit off so that the bulb never gets that first ignition). When the engine starts, let go of the starter button as normal, then the headlamp comes on as normal (and it's not a hot re-strike).

If you stall the engine while out on the road, obviously you're going to get a hot re-strike at that point ... but I ain't worrying about it, doing it this way eliminates 99% of the hot re-strikes, and it's free and there's no changes to the bike's stock wiring harness and there's no additional aftermarket components to fail at the worst possible time ...
 
Brian is correct, this is exactly what I recommend to everyone who's headlights come on when you turn the key on.

If you're lazy or forgetful you can use this time delay relay, works sweet on my HID's: http://retro-solutions.net/product-info.php?HID_Time_Delay_Relay-pid602.html

If 10 seconds doesn't do it for ya just send them an e-mail and they can make it any delay you want. I have mine wired up so my headlight doesn't turn on until I shift out of N (so they are off the entire time when idling to warm up the bike).

-Jamie M.
 
Brian P said:
Free solution that I use: Change your starting procedure.

Press and hold the starter button in BEFORE switching on the key. Then switch on the key. The engine will crank immediately (and the headlamp cutoff relay holds the headlamp circuit off so that the bulb never gets that first ignition). When the engine starts, let go of the starter button as normal, then the headlamp comes on as normal (and it's not a hot re-strike).

If you stall the engine while out on the road, obviously you're going to get a hot re-strike at that point ... but I ain't worrying about it, doing it this way eliminates 99% of the hot re-strikes, and it's free and there's no changes to the bike's stock wiring harness and there's no additional aftermarket components to fail at the worst possible time ...
Click to expand...

Isn't that a REALLY bad idea for fuel injected bikes?
 
No. What harm could it possibly do? There is no component on the bike doing anything other than what it was designed to do, by following that procedure. It works fine. That the voltage drop from the starter motor engaging is happening 0.01 seconds (relay engagement time) after the key comes on, versus 2 seconds after the key comes on, doesn't make any difference, it's still the same.
 
silverbullet132 said:
Isn't that a REALLY bad idea for fuel injected bikes?
Click to expand...
Sorry, I didn't read Brian's full starting solution. It's not exactly what I usually recommend.

Here is my starting procedure for an SV650 with HID headlights.

1. Depress the starter button HALF way.
2. Turn on key (bike will not automatically start cranking).
3. Allow the fuel pump to prime and the dash/ECU to wake up (approx 5 seconds).
4. Depress the starter button the rest of the way until the bike fires.
5. ONLY release the starter button HALF WAY!
6. Wait 10 seconds for the voltage to recover, then release the starter button. Voila, your HID's should fire right up.

Doesn't work on all bikes (requires the two stage starter button), but works sweet on the ones that do.

-Jamie M.
 
Gaggu P said:
That is better, only thing I'm wondering is if the battery / charging system ever gets too weak to keep 13.5v consistently would that mean no lights for me?

I'd only need the first, only using an HID in the low beam.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Connect the load pin on the relay to the trigger pin with a diode.
 
Brian P said:
No. What harm could it possibly do? There is no component on the bike doing anything other than what it was designed to do, by following that procedure. It works fine. That the voltage drop from the starter motor engaging is happening 0.01 seconds (relay engagement time) after the key comes on, versus 2 seconds after the key comes on, doesn't make any difference, it's still the same.
Click to expand...

I was saying that because the pump would have no time to prime the system, I was told never to start a FI bike until it stops priming/FI light goes out.
 
If the fuel system had air in it because you had something apart, then it might take the pump a moment to prime. Consequence: The engine starts on the 2nd revolution instead of the 1st because the 1st revolution was too lean to fire. Non-issue on that start-up. Subsequently ...

If the fuel rail is filled with fuel all the way to the injectors (which should be the normal case) then the fuel rail will reach delivery pressure in a small fraction of a second (remember, the injectors are not firing yet because the engine is not spinning yet because it takes longer for the starter motor and heavy crankshaft to start spinning than for the tiny fuel pump to start spinning). Non-issue.

If the fuel rail IS draining back then you have a leaking injector or regulator. Fix it. If the pump is making weird sounds on start-up and not building pressure properly and promptly, then it's going bad. Fix it.

The engine control ECU does not take forever to boot up and be ready to go the way this laptop does. You know the old saw about "if Microsoft made cars" ...
 
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