Need a bolt for an exhaust clamp on the TL1000S. Suzuki doesn't list the bolt as a separate part, they list it as part of an (unobtanium) assembly. It's a flanged M8-1.25 x 40mm bolt, pretty much this bolt exactly (but grade isn't really important). Would be cool if I could get it in a similar "lightweight" style as the original but I can live with an extra gram or two of metal if I have to - where is the best place to get this locally? I am not someone with a large bolt/fastener collection and 9 out of 10 times will be the guy that just orders overpriced bolts from the dealer.
Not local unfortunately but you could order it from McMaster Carr and get it here in 2 days. McMaster-Carr
Only thing is they dont ship to individuals in Canada, however all they require is a company name to ship it to you. I just put down the name of the company I work for and my home address.
I remember I needed some weird bolt and a few plastic clips in the past - I stopped by Snow City and guys in parts dep found me what I was looking for in one of those many bins on shelves behind them, it didn't say Honda on those or special packaging but it was exactly what I needed.. If you are not far - stop by and check them out.
Try Home - Pacific Fasteners in Etobicoke (Kipling/Queensway). They were recommended to me by someone, and I've dropped in to check them out when I was passing by. No showroom, just a cash register and a limited display case. But supposedly they have, or can get, anything. They can also assist in identifying a specific fastener, but better to at least try yourself with their online guide.
Just noticed they now have a $10 minimum for retail sales.
Brafasco/Fastening House will 100% have it - but they often have minimum quantity purchases (usually by the package).
I had to get a specific reverse thread nut a while back - I needed 12 of them; they had exactly what I needed, but it was a 100 count package... So I have 88 on the shelf at work, should I ever need one again.
Cap Screw-Flanged Hex Head-Class 10.9- M8-1.25 x 40mm
www.dormanproducts.com
Any parts store can order it for you.
What makes that bolt "special" is the flange, a regular bolt with a washer will do the job.
If you use stainless: dose it good with anti seize and loosen it every couple of years.
Thanks all. Main thing is that a standard M8 bolt would have a 13mm head on it, and that seems pretty likely to setup a future scenario where I am enraged at my past self (so far there are no other uses for a 13mm socket on the bike). To get a JIS bolt at all seems easier with a flange than without...
...found this. https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/PAP009121 Since I am already waiting on gaskets and this is pay on pickup, I decided to punch it in and see what happens
Metric bolts with grade requirements will have the heads marked with 8.8 or 10.9. If there are no markings on the bolt head, any bolt of the same size will do (unmarked, 8.8 or 10.9). Unmarked bolts have tensile strength of around 75KPSI, Grade5(imperial)/8.8(metric) 120KPSI, and Grade8/10.9 150KPSI. Not many fasteners on a bike need to be more than a basic bolt.
A note on stainless. Stainless bolts are slightly lower tensile strength than Grade 5/8.8, but stronger than an unmarked or Grade 2 steel bolt. The benefits of stainless are mostly corrosion protection and don't usually need thread locking or lock washers. The downsides are cost and reusability.
When changing from steel to stainless fasteners, there are a few things to consider. Galling is the transfer of metal under friction -- think of it like the rubber left behind on the road after a skid -- while harder and stronger than most steel bolts, stainless galls more than steel. The small amount of material galled from stainless threads when tightened acts like a thread locker (hence less need for Loctite or lock washers when using stainless fasteners). To reduce galling, you can lubricate the threads with anti-sieze or oil (be sure to adjust torque for lubed threads), particularly important when going into aluminum tapped holes. Also, galling happens on tighteningand untightening -- so don't remove stainless fasteners unnecessarily - the more you re&re stainless the more it galls threads, and the more the bolt is likely to cinch-lock and break.
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