Haw do racers do a proper motor brake in usining the track | GTAMotorcycle.com

Haw do racers do a proper motor brake in usining the track

goggles600rr

Well-known member
This question is long overdue!
Y should someone purchase a used track bike?
Has is the motor gone through its proper manufacturers proper break in period , it the bike goes straight from the showroom to the track???

Can anyone answer this !
 
This question is long overdue!
Y should someone purchase a used track bike?
!
Financially smart if you don't have a budget to start with a brand new bike
Mods are already done and bike is ready to race if you don't have the mechanical inclination to prep a bike for racing or the money

There are many reasons, I bought my race bike used for all reasons above as most people do
 
This question is long overdue!
Y should someone purchase a used track bike?
Has is the motor gone through its proper manufacturers proper break in period , it the bike goes straight from the showroom to the track???

Can anyone answer this !
How would you know these same things on a street bike? Secondly who cares?
 
This question is long overdue!
Y should someone purchase a used track bike?
Has is the motor gone through its proper manufacturers proper break in period , it the bike goes straight from the showroom to the track???

Can anyone answer this !

There is no need for doing the full factory break-in procedure. There is a school of thought that following the factory break-in procedure may result in an engine that does not seat the rings as well as an engine that is broken in hard. There is another school of thought that the factory break-in procedure is as much to break in the rider (get the rider used to the bike).

You need high pressure in the cylinders to push the cylinder rings out against the cylinder walls to seat them. But this has to be only for short periods initially to prevent having too much heat build-up. The majority of piston ring sealing happens within the first few minutes of engine operation.

I've only done the running-in procedure on rebuilds, not on OEM builds. There is another argument that the factory machining these days is so good that no break-in period is required at all.

For rebuilds, this is what I've done ...

Initial engine fill is with a regular, cheap, 10w30 non-synthetic motor oil. There is an argument that if you install new camshafts and lifters that you should use a break-in oil with higher ZDDP content ... I've never done it, but if you subscribe to that theory, such oils are available at automotive hot-rodding places (Performance Improvements, etc).

On first start-up, just run it at idle for 30 seconds or so. Confirm that the oil pump is working (verify that the oil level goes down in the window) and check for leaks and verify no nasty noises. Shut it down and give it a few minutes to cool off.

Second start-up, hold it at 2000-ish rpm for a couple of minutes. Check that the alternator is charging, verify no leaks or nasty noises, etc. Shut it down and let it cool off.

Third start-up, vary speed 2000 - 3000 rpm no load (in neutral) until the coolant temperature gauge reaches the normal range. Shut it down. The next run will be on the track.

At the track ... Start the engine and warm it up at 2000 - 3000 rpm until the coolant temp shows normal then go out on the track. Accelerate hard at full throttle but upshift early to keep the revs around half of redline and when it reaches that rpm in top gear, back out of the throttle and cruise. On the next lap, add 1000 rpm. On the next lap, add another 1000. By the end of the session you should be accelerating at full throttle to redline (riding normally).

Pull in and change the oil. It will probably be pretty black considering how little it has been used ... that's the break-in doing its job. I'll use a good motorcycle-specific non-synthetic for the first fill and then just ride it normally. At the next oil change, the engine is now broken in, use synthetic oil.
 
As others have said, the "factory recommended" break in method is often shown to be less than ideal. Most race bike engines will be broken in on the dyno, where the appropriate output can be confirmed and leakdown tests will also be used to make sure that everything is working properly. You will not get that with a used street bike. Or you have the more casual racer that will break the bike in on the street and then convert to race. Why not buy a used race bike, you'll get lots of properly installed addons for a fraction of the new cost.
 
With the very tight tolerances on engines today and the materials and methods used, there is hardly any thermal expansion on internal parts. Forged pistons don't expand nearly as much as cast pistons used to. That was the main reason for the old "break-in". It is not uncommon for newly assembled engines to be run to very high and even max RPM immediately (after operating temp reached) and not have any issues. There are some who say this might even be better for it.

I've assembled several engines and done this very thing with no adverse effects.
 
My buddy who builds automotive engines swears by high load low rpm (ie a controlled burnout) for breaking in new engines. Makes sense to me, plus i'm pretty sure thats how the break them in on the dyno.
 

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