Follow up questions on Yoshimura full exhaust installation...

Mina

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So, I just picked up a brand new RS-5 full system for my CBR600RR.
Installation was a PITA but I managed to get it all together and on the bike without ****ing anything up.
I wanted to hear how the bike sounded after the installation and came across a couple of issues while the bike was running.

1. Light smoke on deceleration (after some research, this is temporary and normal for a full exhaust to break in, correct?)
2. The bike idles weird, jumps between a 1000-1300 RPM

I didn't install a fuel programmer yet and I'm assuming this is causing the weird idle?
Any insight is appreciated, thanks!
 
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So, I just picked up a brand new RS-5 full system for my CBR600RR.
Installation was a PITA but I managed to get it all together and on the bike without ****ing anything up.
I wanted to hear how the bike sounded after the installation and came across a couple of issues while the bike was running.

1. Light smoke on deceleration (after some research, this is temporary and normal for a full exhaust to break in, correct?)
2. The bike idles weird, jumps between a 1000-1300 RPM

I didn't install a fuel programmer yet and I'm assuming this is causing the weird idle?
Any insight is appreciated, thanks!
Sounds pretty normal. To fix your idle with a power commander, add some numbers where you see the 4's in the following fuel table:

Power_Commander_Idle_settings_only.png


4's worked for my bike, you might need 2's or 8's or 20's, etc.

-Jamie M.
 
I had some smoke just idling when I installed mine but it went away entirely after a few KMs... not sure about on "decel only". Weird idle will be caused by the 'no map'.... try finding one as close to what you have on the bike as possible before playing around with digits.

I suggest reading up on fuel maps/values yourself so you can understand what these numbers mean. As mentioned above, just because it works on one bike doesn't mean it will work on yours. Even a base map available on websites, etc... will work "good enough" but may not help with all the popping or bumpy idle.

If you aren't too familiar with fuel tables and AFRs, consult with someone is or even consider getting a custom map for your bike.
 
So, I just picked up a brand new RS-5 full system for my CBR600RR.
Installation was a PITA but I managed to get it all together and on the bike without ****ing anything up.
I wanted to hear how the bike sounded after the installation and came across a couple of issues while the bike was running.

1. Light smoke on deceleration (after some research, this is temporary and normal for a full exhaust to break in, correct?)
2. The bike idles weird, jumps between a 1000-1300 RPM

I didn't install a fuel programmer yet and I'm assuming this is causing the weird idle?
Any insight is appreciated, thanks!

I cant recall if your bike had an aftermarket air filter or not .. but now you have a full system installed, this is the time to start looking at a PC or Bazazz system like we talked about.
 
Weird idle will be caused by the 'no map'.... try finding one as close to what you have on the bike as possible before playing around with digits.
Trying different maps will have NO EFFECT on your idle (unless they have numbers where I've said, most maps do not).

Find a map that works best for your bike EVERYWHERE but idle, then tune the idle range like I explained. Keep track of your idle settings, so you can apply them to every map you load in the future, and you'll always have a flawless idle :)

-Jamie M.
 
I currently have a PCV and Autotune on my 750 with a preloaded map and it idles/runs fine.
Some popping on deceleration but not too horrible...

The PC site has a map ready for my bike with my exhaust system, so I'll be loading that map on the PC and hook up the Autotune.
I'm working on it, Chris... Just taking me some time to get everything together.
 
I currently have a PCV and Autotune on my 750 with a preloaded map and it idles/runs fine.
Some popping on deceleration but not too horrible...

The PC site has a map ready for my bike with my exhaust system, so I'll be loading that map on the PC and hook up the Autotune.
I'm working on it, Chris... Just taking me some time to get everything together.

No worries. Lots of time over the winter to get everything sorted out .. :)
 
Some popping on deceleration but not too horrible...
See if there are "smog block off plates" available for your bike. On the yamaha's it's called the AIS delete, other bikes called the PAIR or fresh air system. It's responsible for 85% of the popping.

The other 15% is usually bikes that shut off the fuel injectors on deceleration. In your power commander map add the 20's etc where you see them on this map (make sure in your autotune table the target AFR is 0 for areas where you manually make changes to the fuel table). You can extended them down lower into the RPM range if that's where you're getting the popping as well.

Power_Commander_Idle_settings.png


-Jamie M.
 
Yes you're right, the map has no effect on the idle.... I just went from one though to another with no transition lol.

I have the PCV with autotune on my R6. When I start the bike the idle hops until the AT kicks in.... but other than warm up the bike on driving in the pits.... it's usually in the higher power band :p so I couldn't care much if it hops. But standing at a street light, I would expect different.
 
The light smoke on deceleration is likely caused by an improper AFR. If it's black it's running rich. Time to purchase some form of tuner.
 
How old is this bike? are the throttle bodies balanced? are the exhaust flanged sealing properly?
 
How old is this bike? are the throttle bodies balanced? are the exhaust flanged sealing properly?
It's an 05, less than 5000 KM's on the clock.
Trust me, I made damn sure that the flanges were sealing properly when installing them, that was by far the hardest part of the install.
Once I figured out what I'm doing, it was a piece of cake from there.

I am pretty sure that the idle is caused by the lack of fuel controller, I just wanted confirmation...
The bike ran fine for the first few seconds and after minimal blipping of the throttle it started to idle weird.
 
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I cant recall if your bike had an aftermarket air filter or not .. but now you have a full system installed, this is the time to start looking at a PC or Bazazz system like we talked about.

Do you recommend an OEM air filter or swap it with after-market one?
 
Do you recommend an OEM air filter or swap it with after-market one?
A BMC "street" filter flows 2% more air than your stock filter, with equal filtering ability. A BMC "Race" filter flows 5% more air but has poorer filtering ability.

Price out a stock one, then BMC (usually $80-$90 at bluestreak) and see which is a better value.

Don't even get me started on K&N ;)

-Jamie M.
 
Do you recommend an OEM air filter or swap it with after-market one?

Everyone will have different thoughts on this .. BMC seems to be the norm. I had K/N in my last race bike, along with a few street bikes ..

If its just a track bike, i would even consider using OEM as well. And just swapping it out each season.
 
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