First time installing a tubed tire... Got 4 questions

[adri]

Hey all, need the help of wiser folk if you can spare a few minutes.

Q1: Is this tube tire too big? Tire is an 80-100/19. This is the tube I was sold:



Q2: How tight should the little nut that goes around the valve stem be? Tight AF? Just snug?

Q3: No *pop!* *pop!* sound of the bead seating like on tubeless tires right?

Q4: Are tubed tires balanced the same way as tubeless? I have a static wheel balancer/truing stand. Can I use it like normal? Do I need to buy the spoke weights or are regular balancing weights ok?



Just a pic of the work in progress. Thanks for the help all!

 

[Lightcycle]

Q1: Is this tube tire too big? Tire is an 80-100/19.

The tube is good for 3" (76mm) to 100mm width. It should be okay for your 80mm tire.

Q2: How tight should the little nut that goes around the valve stem be? Tight AF? Just snug?

Not tight at all.

Whether to run a nut at all is a religious question. Most people use the nut to stop the tube from rotating and to stop the rim from shearing off the valve stem. However, the renegades will argue that if you do use a nut and the tube rotates, it will shear off the valve stem anyway...

If you do use the nut, leave it loose so the tube has a little room to move without putting stress on the valve stem. Also, if the tube is able to move a little, the valve stem will start to angle away from the rim, so you can visually spot this and fix it before it rips off the valve stem.

Q3: No *pop!* *pop!* sound of the bead seating like on tubeless tires right?

Should hear a pop. Still need the bead to seat regardless of if you use a tube or tubeless, otherwise the tire will fall off the rim at speed.

Q4: Are tubed tires balanced the same way as tubeless? I have a static wheel balancer/truing stand. Can I use it like normal? Do I need to buy the spoke weights or are regular balancing weights ok?

Yes, balanced the same. Spoke weights do the same job as stick-on rim weights. The benefit of spoke weights is that you can re-use them very easily and they don't leave a messy residue behind when you remove them. Stick-on weights are a little bit easier to balance because you aren't limited to finding a specific spoke and weight to balance, you can stick on the weight anywhere on the rim and can also trim off the stick-on weight to get more precision.

 

[timtune]

I've changed all the tires on my KLR since I got it and have never balanced a tire. Lots of miles w/o any grief. Take that for what it's worth.

I don't always hear a pop but I do work until the bead is properly located. Sometimes over inflating and then bouncing the tire will do the trick.

 

[TK4]

I've changed all the tires on my KLR since I got it and have never balanced a tire. Lots of miles w/o any grief. Take that for what it's worth.

(Insert KLR joke here.)

 

[adri]

The tube is good for 3" (76mm) to 100mm width. It should be okay for your 80mm tire.



Not tight at all.

Whether to run a nut at all is a religious question. Most people use the nut to stop the tube from rotating and to stop the rim from shearing off the valve stem. However, the renegades will argue that if you do use a nut and the tube rotates, it will shear off the valve stem anyway...

If you do use the nut, leave it loose so the tube has a little room to move without putting stress on the valve stem. Also, if the tube is able to move a little, the valve stem will start to angle away from the rim, so you can visually spot this and fix it before it rips off the valve stem.



Should hear a pop. Still need the bead to seat regardless of if you use a tube or tubeless, otherwise the tire will fall off the rim at speed.



Yes, balanced the same. Spoke weights do the same job as stick-on rim weights. The benefit of spoke weights is that you can re-use them very easily and they don't leave a messy residue behind when you remove them. Stick-on weights are a little bit easier to balance because you aren't limited to finding a specific spoke and weight to balance, you can stick on the weight anywhere on the rim and can also trim off the stick-on weight to get more precision.

9:37 am and I already learned three or four new things today. Thanks Gene!

I'll try the overinflate a bit and bouncing the tire. Definitely heard no pops last night. Thx @timtune

 

[timtune]

Pop or no pop you can visually see if the bead is where it should be.

 

[adri]

Yeah it does seem properly how it should be, visually, but, the wheel is still off the bike so now is a good time to try your tip anyway just to be sure.

 

[bitzz]

Don't use more than about 55-60psi to seat the bead... lotza lube
If you don't have spoke weights, I use plumbing solder wrapped around a spoke. Looks cleaner that glue on weights.

 

[timtune]

Don't use more than about 55-60psi to seat the bead.

I've probably surpassed that. What would be the concern?

 

[GreyGhost]

I've probably surpassed that. What would be the concern?

Kablammo. I've only had a bicycle tire explode when trying to seat the bead not a mc tire. It wasn't cooperating and was at something like 150 psi. I was stupid. I should have used lube but hadn't before and didn't want to that time. Your brain can't react to the explosion as it's too fast. You figure out what happened after and make sure all your body parts are still attached and not leaking.

 

[Relax]

I use talcom powder and add a little air to the tube to keep it from getting pinched during installation:

 

[Relax]

Kablammo. I've only had a bicycle tire explode when trying to seat the bead not a mc tire. It wasn't cooperating and was at something like 150 psi. I was stupid. I should have used lube but hadn't before and didn't want to that time. Your brain can't react to the explosion as it's too fast. You figure out what happened after and make sure all your body parts are still attached and not leaking.

This is what happens when you go to air up your utility cart tires that deflated over the winter and you're too lazy to put on your reading glasses and mistake the 3 for an 8 on the MAX PSI. I didn't even question the 80 after recently doing the bicycle tires. Damn, I never expected a rupture to cause so much damage to a steel rim. As luck would have it, it blew on the opposite side of the valve stem (away from me), and Princess Auto just happened to have a closeout on the same sized wheel/tube/tire assembly, so this lesson only cost me $24 instead of an arm and a leg (or eye).

 

[bitzz]

Over inflating the tire can tear the carcass and over stretch the tube.
I always inflate the tube with no core after installing the tube, before i spoon on the second side, so the tube has no kinks.
Use a 3" long M5 bolt through the hole to fish the schrader valve of the tube through the hole then loosely install the outside nut... don't tighten it till you have the bead set

 

[Baggsy]

I always thought that the nut was to keep the valve stem from retreating into the tire when deflated. Nothing like trying to attach a pump in the cold & wet, and have the valve stem disappear.

 

[Lightcycle]

Nothing like trying to attach a pump in the cold & wet, and have the valve stem disappear.

 

[adri]

"I dunno how you guys ride around with those things"
- Me to people with tubed tires

 

[timtune]

I always inflate the tube with no core after installing the tube, before i spoon on the second side, so the tube has no kinks.

I like to to do this as well. Helps my peace of mind.

Is 5mm the internal thread of the schrader?