Feeler Gauges?? Which type???? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Feeler Gauges?? Which type????

oioioi

oioioi

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What are the best types of feeler gauges for motorcycle repair?

I am thinking about and planning on doing the valve clearance check and adjustment on my own. Bike is 2008 FZ6.
I want to do it as the next two weeks is not promising for riding weather and I will be home with nothing to do. (Well there is the honey do list) . I also like the idea of saving money, and want to get better at doing my own mechanical things on the bike. Fork seals will also be part of this maintenance.

I know I will need to purchase feeler gauges. I have looked online and there a few different ones I came across. Which ones are best for bike use or this specific job?
There are straight ones and bent ones. Will the bent ones work better than the straight ones?

Also, are valve shim kits specific to the bike/manufacturer or are they universal?

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The ones that come with the bend make it a little easier to measure with - depending on the engine it can be a little tricky to get them to slide in and give an accurate reading. Feeler needs to be flat to read properly and the way most top ends are you have to put the feeler in on a slight angle.

IIRC most recent Japanese bikes use the same shim size however I'd confirm the diameter needed for your bike before ordering.
 
Just checked 2 different manuals. Haynes and Yamaha Service manual and there is no mention of what type to use.

I also found a thread on the 600riders.com forum with what looks like detailed instructions on this (valve check/adjustment). Will be reading that after dinner. ?
 
Wingboy said:
The most important thing about feeler gauges, is learning to use them properly.
Click to expand...

I understand that they can be stacked together if one size is too loose and the next one is to thick.
If you need the size in between , I know we can stack two thinner ones.

Also, they need to be kept in pristine condition in order to work properly. Little bit of oil during storage to avoid corrosion.
 
If you can't get a flat gauge in without bending it..... Then you need a bent one.
 
Did the check on my FZ6 years ago, nothing needed adjustment. I want to say I used straight feeler gauges, a bent set would probably be better though.

From what I remember, it was pretty straightforward with a fair amount of room to work.

Rough guideline going from memory

- Remove gas tank
- Remove air filter box, battery
- Remove throttle body rack (can't remember if this was necessary)
- Remove front body assembly, can't remember if this was necessary, but it's super easy and might give you more room, it's only two connectors on the left side, and two bolts holding it to the steering tube
- Remove radiator
- Remove valve cover and go from there
 
regder said:
Did the check on my FZ6 years ago, nothing needed adjustment. I want to say I used straight feeler gauges, a bent set would probably be better though.

From what I remember, it was pretty straightforward with a fair amount of room to work.

Rough guideline going from memory

- Remove gas tank
- Remove air filter box, battery
- Remove throttle body rack (can't remember if this was necessary)
- Remove front body assembly, can't remember if this was necessary, but it's super easy and might give you more room, it's only two connectors on the left side, and two bolts holding it to the steering tube
- Remove radiator
- Remove valve cover and go from there
Click to expand...


Bike is naked so no body to worry about.

All the parts you have mentioned have already been removed at some point in the winter for other maintenance.
Spark plugs, coolant flush, air filter, new battery. So I am familiar with the steps.
 
TK4 said:
I wouldn't ever recommend that - get the proper shim. If you're that far out of service range then something is wrong.
Click to expand...


Borrowed from another forum.

Measuring / Using the feeler gauges:
When you find one gauge is loose but the next one up is too tight to go in, drop down ONE WHOLE SIZE and double up using a thinner gauges by stacking them.
Example: lets say we are measuring and find the following:
0.012" = too tight
0.011" = slides in easy and feels loose

Increase your measurement Resolution / Pair up smaller gauge values:
0.010" + 0.0015" = 0.0115"
- This gives you better resolution than a single gauge. Plus thinner combinations are more flexible (0.0015"). Yes, it takes longer but its worth it! That's why you see those 0.0065" values in the INTAKE section.
 
Wingboy said:
The most important thing about feeler gauges, is learning to use them properly.
Click to expand...

1,000 %, feeler is the apt word


they are affordable, buy both types
and yes, keep them clean and lightly lubed

they can be stacked if in good condition and clean
try to use gauges that adjacent to each other if possible
if they are aways apart in the stack you may have an issue
or take them out of the stack to be certain
 
J_F said:
1,000 %, feeler is the apt word


they are affordable, buy both types
and yes, keep them clean and lightly lubed
Click to expand...


I supposed I can buy two sets.
I will probably looks for ones that have more individual feelers with smallest increments.
 
oioioi said:
Borrowed from another forum.

Measuring / Using the feeler gauges:
When you find one gauge is loose but the next one up is too tight to go in, drop down ONE WHOLE SIZE and double up using a thinner gauges by stacking them.
Example: lets say we are measuring and find the following:
0.012" = too tight
0.011" = slides in easy and feels loose

Increase your measurement Resolution / Pair up smaller gauge values:
0.010" + 0.0015" = 0.0115"
- This gives you better resolution than a single gauge. Plus thinner combinations are more flexible (0.0015"). Yes, it takes longer but its worth it! That's why you see those 0.0065" values in the INTAKE section.
Click to expand...

That's 'go-no go' with the feeler guage, not the shim.
And best get a micrometer and shim assortment of the right size and range before you start.
Because everything you read on the internet is true, right ?
 
TK4 said:
That's 'go-no go' with the feeler guage, not the shim.
And best get a micrometer and shim assortment of the right size and range before you start.
Because everything you read on the internet is true, right ?
Click to expand...


Sorry, I meant stacking feelers. (maybe misread a post)

I would not be stacking shims for sure. Regardless of what the internet would say about that.

I'm not mechanic but I would think that I'm smart enough to realize that would be a bad recommendation.
 
J_F said:
try to use gauges that adjacent to each other if possible
if they are aways apart in the stack you may have an issue
or take them out of the stack to be certain
Click to expand...

Yes, already thought about this in my head.
If you would try to stack 2 shims from the opposite end of the stack you may end up bending them out of their flat/straight shape.

I have seen some kits where they are on a ring that can be opened and shims can be taken out individually .
 
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oioioi said:
Borrowed from another forum.

Measuring / Using the feeler gauges:
When you find one gauge is loose but the next one up is too tight to go in, drop down ONE WHOLE SIZE and double up using a thinner gauges by stacking them.
Example: lets say we are measuring and find the following:
0.012" = too tight
0.011" = slides in easy and feels loose

Increase your measurement Resolution / Pair up smaller gauge values:
0.010" + 0.0015" = 0.0115"
- This gives you better resolution than a single gauge. Plus thinner combinations are more flexible (0.0015"). Yes, it takes longer but its worth it! That's why you see those 0.0065" values in the INTAKE section.
Click to expand...

You're not working to that fine a tolerance. You will have a hard time "feeling" half a thou.
If you were to "stack" feeler gauges, you would lose that half thou any way.

... if what ever you're trying to measure is coated in oil... that oil is at least a thou thick.

Buy the type, flat or bent, which fits the job.
You're over thinking a small part of the task ahead of you.
 
Here is my two cents: When you buy a set of feeler gauges, make sure you are buying them in the right range! Take a look at what your valve clearance specs are, and use that to inform your purchase. If you grab some off the shelf at the tire hole, more likely than not they will be too big.
 
If in doubt just check the feeler gauge with your micrometer ;)
 
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Whether the straight kind or the bent kind is more appropriate, depends on which direction you have to approach the measurement location. If you can't get in straight from the side with a straight feeler gauge, you need a bent one.

I only have the straight type, and it has worked for anything I have needed to do.

If the native measurement system for your engine is metric, then get a metric set of feeler gauges to make your life easier.
 
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