Electrical add-ons to battery ?

el_felo

el_felo

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Hi, I did a bit of search and found little info, so I want to bring up this question(s).

I know most 12v outlets for GPS/phone/usb allow you to plug them directly to the battery, A side from the fact that this will stop you from screwing the electrical stuff on the bike is there any other reason this is good?? I mean from my bad understanding of electrical things, if I plug in a cable to the battery directly this cable will provide "live" current to the device with the bike on or off... no?

Would it be a bad thing to add a switch on/off option? so that is not always letting current go over it which will preserve my battery when I am not using the thing?

I am thinking to make a cable that comes from the battery to the back seat where I can have the switch on or off and then from that cable plug in the gps/usb charger or whatever which comes with its own fuse. Bad idea? am I really confused ?

I've been all over the net and I am trying to avoid a bunch of cables directly to the battery, and also trying to about having cables always on when I am not using them. I am also trying to stay away from touching the electrical cables on the bike (keeping it stock as much as possible).

Anyways, thanks for any help you can provide.
 
You can wire/relay into existing connections so that current only flows when that element is on.

for example, wire your USB port connector in line with your running lights. Bike on, lights on = power on. Bike off, lights off = power off.

If you're uncertain or unsure, I've had a few friends have accessories installed at GP and Heritage Auto.
 
12V adapter directly into your battery = This adapter is LIVE all the time.

You can run a switch....but I would strongly urge you to use a in-line fuse. Nothing worst than frying a $500 GPS or a phone....



So the issue : Switch or No Switch (this is up to your application)

I have to devices that run off my battery (USB charge & GPS)

GPS (hard wired with a fuse):
- My Gps needs juice all the time, no battery in it.

USB (hard wired into the battery with a fuse)
- This is on all the time, so when I am having my lunch, I can charge my iphone or blackberry or ipod.....
 
frekeyguy said:
So the issue : Switch or No Switch (this is up to your application)

I have to devices that run off my battery (USB charge & GPS)

GPS (hard wired with a fuse):
- My Gps needs juice all the time, no battery in it.

USB (hard wired into the battery with a fuse)
- This is on all the time, so when I am having my lunch, I can charge my iphone or blackberry or ipod.....
Click to expand...

would it be bad to add a switch on/off option to these?? if good, should the switch be before or after the fuse??
 
I've got a 12v plug directly connected to my battery. It provides power to whatever I plug into it even when the bike is off.

However! It does not drain the battery when nothing is connected. You can definitely put an inline switch if you like, which could be useful if you want to control the power.. just be sure to put an inline fuse on the positive wire towards the battery.
 
afelotreyu said:
would it be bad to add a switch on/off option to these?? if good, should the switch be before or after the fuse??
Click to expand...

I've always built my circuits with a fuse before the switch.


BATTERY --> FUSE --> SWITCH...so if something goes wrong, the fuse blows and protects the entire circuit.
 
Use a relay. Bike batteries can get run down in a hurry and leave you stranded. I have Heated gloves, grips, and a GPS - nothing is powered with key off.
 
mikbusa said:
Use a relay. Bike batteries can get run down in a hurry and leave you stranded. I have Heated gloves, grips, and a GPS - nothing is powered with key off.
Click to expand...

GPS will not draw much, its the heated grips that will draw the most power.

Low battery = bump start..
 
mikbusa said:
Use a relay. Bike batteries can get run down in a hurry and leave you stranded. I have Heated gloves, grips, and a GPS - nothing is powered with key off.
Click to expand...

Could you be a bit more specific on how this relay works? or link me somewhere. This is mostly the reason I want to have a switch option, so that the cable is not running live current unless I specifically want it to.

I do want to be able to charge my cell or GPS while I stop for lunch or while I am riding, I just don't think I will be charging my phone or GPS all the time or every day . I don't see why the cable should be running live at all times.
 
afelotreyu said:
Could you be a bit more specific on how this relay works? or link me somewhere. This is mostly the reason I want to have a switch option, so that the cable is not running live current unless I specifically want it to.

I do want to be able to charge my cell or GPS while I stop for lunch or while I am riding, I just don't think I will be charging my phone or GPS all the time or every day . I don't see why the cable should be running live at all times.
Click to expand...

If there is nothing connected to it, then its not drawing any power. I've had it set up this way on my bike for more then 2 years with no issues whatsoever, My battery has never run down because of it.
 
afelotreyu said:
Could you be a bit more specific on how this relay works? or link me somewhere. This is mostly the reason I want to have a switch option, so that the cable is not running live current unless I specifically want it to.

I do want to be able to charge my cell or GPS while I stop for lunch or while I am riding, I just don't think I will be charging my phone or GPS all the time or every day . I don't see why the cable should be running live at all times.
Click to expand...

A relay is a switch...... electromagnet is used to switch a mechanical switch.

Simplified...its basically a switch you turn ON / OFF - the ON/OFF is trigged by a low voltage source, like a tail light or marker light, which in turn will turn the SWITCH ON to a high voltage source like to a battery.

So in essense....TAIL LIGHT ON = RELAY is ON.

TAIL LIGHT OFF = RELAY is OFF.....so as long as your key is in the OFF position, the relay is OFF
 
PS: If you are in the Brampton area, pop by...I can show you how one of these suckers is suppose to be wired up / works.
 
frekeyguy said:
PS: If you are in the Brampton area, pop by...I can show you how one of these suckers is suppose to be wired up / works.
Click to expand...
I am not at Brampton, more downtown-ish, but thank you and everyone for the info.

I had a Crapy Tire - USB water-resistant cable before and then replaced it with a GPS cable, both connected directly from the Battery with its own fuse. Some times the bike would randomly trip and I would have to open it to move the cables and be able to start it (old Rebel 250, screws on battery were not the best either so I think that was the problem). I fear of having to open my Ninja 250 now if I add these cables again, so I am trying to add the cables while wasting the least amount of battery unless I am using the cable/device.

I think maybe I am complicating myself a bit too much.. :( as mentioned by RicoChet if the cable is not being used it should not be affecting the battery.
 
I'm not sure how people are connecting USBs and GPS's directly to their batteries but you can't just cut the cigarette adapter off and hook up the wires. The cigarette adapter has a voltage reducer to drop the 12 V to 5 volts for the GPS etc. You can buy a direct hook-up cord with a voltage reducer in it at Radioworld. I only did it because it's more compact and secure than the plug in.

A fuse should be as close to the battery as possible so it can protect as much of the circuit as possible in case of a pinched wire etc.
 
nobbie48 said:
I'm not sure how people are connecting USBs and GPS's directly to their batteries but you can't just cut the cigarette adapter off and hook up the wires. The cigarette adapter has a voltage reducer to drop the 12 V to 5 volts for the GPS etc. You can buy a direct hook-up cord with a voltage reducer in it at Radioworld. I only did it because it's more compact and secure than the plug in.

A fuse should be as close to the battery as possible so it can protect as much of the circuit as possible in case of a pinched wire etc.
Click to expand...

I was just there and he said he did not have any USB adapters, he wanted me to get the cig outlet and a usb adapter :( ... As for the GPS, they come with the cable that converts the voltage down, at least mine did
 
nobbie48 said:
I'm not sure how people are connecting USBs and GPS's directly to their batteries but you can't just cut the cigarette adapter off and hook up the wires. The cigarette adapter has a voltage reducer to drop the 12 V to 5 volts for the GPS etc. You can buy a direct hook-up cord with a voltage reducer in it at Radioworld. I only did it because it's more compact and secure than the plug in.

A fuse should be as close to the battery as possible so it can protect as much of the circuit as possible in case of a pinched wire etc.
Click to expand...

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/pro...ous-Automotive/Weather-Proof-USB-Power-Outlet
 
nobbie48 said:
I'm not sure how people are connecting USBs and GPS's directly to their batteries but you can't just cut the cigarette adapter off and hook up the wires. The cigarette adapter has a voltage reducer to drop the 12 V to 5 volts for the GPS etc. You can buy a direct hook-up cord with a voltage reducer in it at Radioworld. I only did it because it's more compact and secure than the plug in.

A fuse should be as close to the battery as possible so it can protect as much of the circuit as possible in case of a pinched wire etc.
Click to expand...

some GPS's run on 12V....
 
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