Doubting my mechanic...

Why would you doubt him if he installed an aftermarket electrical replacement part that was missing wires, and after doing so you now have electrical problems?

If you did nothing else, and didnt have the problem before installed a part that was not a direct replacement, then it only makes sense that its the new part causing the issue.....
 
silverbullet132 said:
Forgot to mention that he did not install it. It was installed by a fellow GTAM member and I.

The stock Honda R/R for these bikes is well known to be a P.O.S, and no one has reported problems running the exact same R/R as was installed.

This is the thread that helped deal with previous issues: http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/showthread.php?147003-Wierd-problem-with-5th-gen-VFR

Since that thread a brand new kickstand switch and bracket were installed.
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Still pointing towards either the new aftermarket part, or its installation....Missing wires is never good! Go over your wiring you could have made a simple mistake on the install...
 
silverbullet132 said:
Could the R/R cause the problem to crop up only if the break light bulbs are installed though? (proper voltage is coming out of it) The wiring is spot on, went over it twice during install.
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Yes RR's can cause all kinds of funny electrical issues, it all depends on how its wired through the bikes system....Not all bikes are the same when it comes to charging system wiring
 
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This not problem with your R/R or how it's wired. It's doing a good job. The FH012AA R/R does a particularly good job at low RPM, as you've seen with your idle Voltage.
The "sense" wire is used by some regulators as a remote Voltage sense to overcome losses in the wiring harness. This is not a problem with your new harness and is not used by the FH012AA R/R. If you follow this wire back on the diagram you'll find it comes from Fuse 'D', which is powered from the ignition switch. It is not a signal running from the R/R to the engine stop relay, it is power from the fuse to the engine stop relay and the starter solenoid circuit.

The dimming of the cluster when you turn on the brake lights is a clue. Does it also happen when the right or left signal lights are on (flashing)? (my guess is; it does)
The cluster illumination is on fuse 'G', the brake and turn lights are on fuse 'C'. Both are fed through the ignition switch.
While you can see the dimming effect test the Voltage on fuse 'G'. Test the battery Voltage under the same conditions. If the Voltage drops at 'G', but not at the battery, then the problem is in the circuit between the battery and the fuse block. (through the ignition switch)
If the Voltage at 'G' is stable but the illumination dims, the problem is at the only other common point; the ground. Test the Voltage on the ground side of the cluster lights (Green wire in the grey connector for the cluster) relative to the negative post of the battery.
 
silverbullet132 said:
Based on what you said, would there be a chance that the ignition switch is the source of the problem?
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It could be. Somewhere there is Voltage drop. It's probably due to a poor connection somewhere. The ignition switch carries quite a load, so sure, the contacts could be getting worn & heating up some. More likely corrosion in an exposed connector in the harness, or fuse block or ground point.

It may take some trouble shooting with a Volt meter to find the problem. It might be more than one problem.

It's easier to use an analog meter for this type of troubleshooting.
 
The fact that your mechanic is wanting to put a crappy OE R/R back in makes me doubt him. The Stock R/R's for the VFR's are garbage.

When you installed the new R/R did it plug i nthe exact same way that the stock one did? using the same plugs as the stock one?

I have swapped out alot of my bulbs (brakes, signals, Intrument cluster) to LED's and that has cut down on alot of the drain.
 
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