Damn alarm killed the battery... again.

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coyo

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I installed a Gorilla alarm on the SD solely to appease the insurance company.

I park the bike in my garage, alarm off.

I was really busy with work come last November so the bike sat for 2 months before I got to modding time and the battery was VERY dead by then. The tender brought it back and in the weeks following, I left it unplugged for a few weeks to see if it would die again, it didn't.

Today, after changing out the brake fluid, I went to start it up and found that it didn't have the juice needed to get her going, just lump it over once or twice.

It's back on the tender.

Stupid alarms.
 
Exact same thing happened to me this morning except that I leave my alarm on all the time. It really does drain the battery.
 
BTW: Can anyone recommend a cheap alarm, or does TD Insurance specify which Brand/Model alarm you must have? If not, something equal to an alarm clock should be sufficient.
 
stnd said:
BTW: Can anyone recommend a cheap alarm, or does TD Insurance specify which Brand/Model alarm you must have? If not, something equal to an alarm clock should be sufficient.
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TD has the Gorilla on their list (the same one I have). While it seems to be killing the battery, from what I've read, they ALL do that... motorcycle batteries being small as they are and the alarm having a constant draw wheter armed or not; sensors and remote.

The pros to the Gorilla; cheap to buy and simple install. It doesn't wire into the bike's wiring, it simply hooks up to the battery. No flashing of lights or any other like features and no immobilizer which I've read have left more than a few riders stranded at the side of the road.
 
stnd said:
BTW: Can anyone recommend a cheap alarm, or does TD Insurance specify which Brand/Model alarm you must have? If not, something equal to an alarm clock should be sufficient.
Click to expand...

They have a list of requirements. I didn't get an immobilizer either after reading about problems with them.
 
redridernl said:
They have a list of requirements. I didn't get an immobilizer either after reading about problems with them.
Click to expand...

TD has a "free list" of requirements or you can just get one of their named alarms, of which they have several, Gorilla being one of them.
 
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To let you know, my less-than-one-season-old battery was killed by a simple 5 V LED. I had installed a cigarette lighter accessory plug to charge my GPS, and in one of the three ports I put in one of those cigarette-lighter-to-USB adapters, and this one had a cute little LED that let you know it was plugged in.

Three months later: 100% UNSALVAGEABLE BATTERY.

Lesson learned for next winter.
 
viper84737 said:
To let you know, my less-than-one-season-old battery was killed by a simple 5 V LED. I had installed a cigarette lighter accessory plug to charge my GPS, and in one of the three ports I put in one of those cigarette-lighter-to-USB adapters, and this one had a cute little LED that let you know it was plugged in.

Three months later: 100% UNSALVAGEABLE BATTERY.

Lesson learned for next winter.
Click to expand...

If this battery is on its last leg, I'll have to check out the new lithium light weight batteries! :)
 
Mines been doing the same thing. I just unhooked it but the r6 immobilizer also drains the battery.
How often does a battery need to be replaced anyway? My bike is an 09.
 
OK, after leaving the bike on the Optimate 3 and getting a green light (full charge) then letting it sit for a day, I started it while watching a volt meter;

- after sitting a day NOT on the Optimate; 12.5v (+/-... wasn't thinking of posting #'s at that time)
- after ignition switch on; 11.5v (+/-)
- starting; 9.34v
- running / charging; 13.74v

It started up fine but I don't know if it's in my head that it seemed slower than I'm used to.

Thoughts?
 
coyo said:
OK, after leaving the bike on the Optimate 3 and getting a green light (full charge) then letting it sit for a day, I started it while watching a volt meter;

- after sitting a day NOT on the Optimate; 12.5v (+/-... wasn't thinking of posting #'s at that time)
- after ignition switch on; 11.5v (+/-)
- starting; 9.34v
- running / charging; 13.74v

It started up fine but I don't know if it's in my head that it seemed slower than I'm used to.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

12.5 V is good for standing
13.7 V charging is also healthy

The other two I have no clue about as I've never done any such tests.
 
I just put a switch under the seat on the positive lead, so that if I'm not using the alarm, I turn off all power to the alarm module, then just turn it on when I need to use the alarm. Problem solved.
 
viper84737 said:
To let you know, my less-than-one-season-old battery was killed by a simple 5 V LED. I had installed a cigarette lighter accessory plug to charge my GPS, and in one of the three ports I put in one of those cigarette-lighter-to-USB adapters, and this one had a cute little LED that let you know it was plugged in.
Click to expand...
It wasn't the LED that killed it, it was the 12v to 5v transformer in the Cigg to USB adapter, just so you know.

coyo said:
OK, after leaving the bike on the Optimate 3 and getting a green light (full charge) then letting it sit for a day, I started it while watching a volt meter;

- after sitting a day NOT on the Optimate; 12.5v (+/-... wasn't thinking of posting #'s at that time)
- after ignition switch on; 11.5v (+/-)
- starting; 9.34v
- running / charging; 13.74v
Click to expand...
11.5v with the key on signifies a bad battery (assuming your headlights don't come on when the key is on). Should never drop below 12 with they key on (no headlights).

-Jamie M.
 
toysareforboys said:
It wasn't the LED that killed it, it was the 12v to 5v transformer in the Cigg to USB adapter, just so you know.

11.5v with the key on signifies a bad battery (assuming your headlights don't come on when the key is on). Should never drop below 12 with they key on (no headlights).

-Jamie M.
Click to expand...

Edit: I think you mean the DC-DC regulator that converts it to 5 V, but to be fair, the sum of the current draw was responsible, as the light was on the whole time.
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